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- #141
Argh... I think the rubber is a little gone, front shocks. I suspects the shocks are shot too, or undersized. So Bilstein 5125 on the way.
Old Truck for Old Guy (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter izzyandsue
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Is this what might be recommended to install on a FJ40 1982 if was ever to roll back on the road in the future?
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- #143
Triangulated to it by looking through the fj40 Forum and BILSTEIN website, that would fit the lifted 43. I have Gabriel ones now old and crappy
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- #144
Well, big difference as expected. The old shocks are dead. I suspect the rear ones are too, will change them later. Nice controlled rebound on the front, the rear still wags its tail. Kind of funny to watch actually
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- #145
Rear shocks done
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- #146
Got an AC Delco canister with 3 ports and connected the hoses from tank to evaporator, evaporator to canister, canister to intake. Then went for a drive...the last part will be check valve between evaporator and canister, gets here thursday
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- #147
Got the right size connector 1/8" Male BSP and ran the hose to it. I can say after a few drives over the last couple days the gas smell in the garage is gone. It was a strong smell after parking it and closing the door.
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- #148
Pollen reducer....Looking for way to reduce the "ram air" system pollen from the roof vents to the cabin. I got this 25 micron stainless mesh and cut it to size, added the holes with a makeshift jig, and put back up . Will see how it works. Added the same mesh to the fresh air intake on the 80 to reduce the pollen, figured being stainless it will wash off. Testing will continue..... May need to use glue on the outer edges to keep it on the plastic grill if they fold in.
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- #149
Adding some bling! From cityracer, it’s about 1/10 the weight of whatever came with the truck. I did have som starting issues right after, might be related, carb flooded again, got it going eventually, then died on a road test.
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- #150
Today, cold engine compression numbers, looking pretty good, and held pressure for 2 minutes each. Still using a lot of oil...
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- #151
odometer…no one knows when it stopped working, title shows NA on mileage so…..time to take it apart, clean and grease and test it. It works! But it is a little off, 0.7 km per mile, or better yet Izzymeters, a new distance measurement system. So every mile is 1.4 izzymeters in the 43. Makes sense, just a little longer than a 40.
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- Thread starter
- #152
Vacuum test….on manifold. I got all the plugs to 0.035 gap and tested vac, it was not steady, rapid intermittent between 18 and 19, 18.5 seemed to be the nominal but does flicker up and down. Adding gradual throttle it would go up and remain very steady and go up and settle around 20. Throttle blip would go to single digits, then above the green, then settle back to 20 or so.
Clearly I need to bring my 40 up for a visit with you and Dave.
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- #154
Clearly! Come on up anytime.
Finally got the right seals for the speedo shaft, thanks to City Racer. Both internal and external, the old crumbled it was so hard
This is the internal one, the other is the o-ring.
Finally got the right seals for the speedo shaft, thanks to City Racer. Both internal and external, the old crumbled it was so hard
This is the internal one, the other is the o-ring.
- Thread starter
- #155
Well…lost idle Saturday while bouncing around in the hills. It wasn't sudden, it stuttered some while climbing steep hills, felt some hesitation. Then Saturday evening at Relic Run I could tell it would not idle. with the choke partially open, I could drive it though, so headed home to diagnose. The first thing I found was the idle solenoid was taped, the wire was held to the contact with tape only. So soldered wire and WD40 clean that and tested with vacuum gauge and battery, it holds vacuum on the tip with no power, then opens up and no vacuum when 12V hits it. There is 12V on the connector going to it, so not sure what else is there to check.
Still, it will not idle, check all hoses and nothing leaks. Could carburetor just be dirty and some debris got loose while bouncing around, clogging the idle circuit? Should I replace the solenoid even it seems to work as needed?
Still, it will not idle, check all hoses and nothing leaks. Could carburetor just be dirty and some debris got loose while bouncing around, clogging the idle circuit? Should I replace the solenoid even it seems to work as needed?
I think I would replace that solenoid if it were me. Probably needs a fresh O-ring at the bare minimum. You can pull a carb drain bolt out (bolts on front side of carb low on the bowl) and hold a clean paper towel under the holes as they drain. If you have trash in the bowl, you’ll see it on the paper towel. Also take a look at your fuel filter. Your problems are probably combination of the two things...dirt in bowl and sketchy idle solenoid.
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- #157
Great idea, didn't think to drain the bowls and check, the fuel filter is few weeks old, sight glass and clean in there so far . Solenoid on the way from City Racer.
I just realized, I don't smell ANY gas out in the garage, but I can see the fuel squirting in when I open the throttle, engine not running.
Sue tells me she now hears a humming noise when driving the LR4... I am hoping its front bearings and not rears. 115K miles, the fronts are likely due to be done.
I just realized, I don't smell ANY gas out in the garage, but I can see the fuel squirting in when I open the throttle, engine not running.
Sue tells me she now hears a humming noise when driving the LR4... I am hoping its front bearings and not rears. 115K miles, the fronts are likely due to be done.
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- #158
Well, took it out and apart best I could, went through 16 oz carb cleaner and used a small air nozzle as follow through. Captured all the liquid out on a metal tray and there was a lot of sooty looking stuff. Put is back together and didn’t loose any springs or bb’s. Back in the truck and same thing. It fires and runs perfect with choke up to the 1/2 point, but won’t idle. Fuse is good and I do measure 12V at the solenoid with ignition on.
Running only with choke on is a symptom of either clogged jets or vacuum leaks. I'd say your options at this point are to either fully disassemble the carb (remove all jets, remove anything rubber, all vacuum canisters, separate top, middle and base, leave butterflies intact) and dip it in a can of Berryman's for a couple of days, blow out and re-assemble OR get a City Racer carb and bolt it on. One more thing. Carefully inspect your carb insulator. It needs to be perfect. If it's not, gaskets are not a good fix. Get a new insulator if you question whether yours is good. The insulator is a known source for vacuum leaks and that could be the cause of your fluctuating vacuum gauge.
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- #160
I am just going to kick it and whimper. But it probably has jungle rot and blocking the jets. I had order the City Racer solenoid but it takes a week to get here. The carburetor would take another week. In the meantime, got an overnight one (Partol) from Amazon coming today, if nothing else will buy me time to either rebuild or get the City Racer one. Have a training event this weekend so hoping to have it running by by then. But taking it fully apart does sound like a good exercise regardless.
Is the insulator the "pedestal" it sits on the manifold? I had checked that before when I was looking for leaks (with starter fluid) and did not found any, the PCV hose was the culprit of that vacuum leak. I did get Zachary to kink all the hoses so no vacuum was available and it didn't make a difference. So thinking about symptoms, it didn't happen immediately, it took a little time from being a little stubborn (during the trail ride) to don't want to idle at all when I got back to camp. But when I had the vacuum leaks before, it would stumble at idle. This time its zip, nothing, it shuts off right away. And no gas smell at all, but runs perfect and smooth with choke on....
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