Old Truck for Old Guy (2 Viewers)

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Eat your heart out with jealousy Tesla! Android tablet with maps, no cell data, all internal.

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Toyota part number 48510-80081E5, “hand throttle detent clamp”. Adjusts the carb choke so it doesn’t get sucked in.
 
Hey Izzy, what model check valve did you use to go between your tank and charcoal canister?
 
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New Toyota cables, cap and rotor. Wow, what a difference that made! It has always started, but more like “…..wait, what, we going somewhere now? Okay, let me get ready, stretch a minute, okay lets go”. With the Toyota Yakzima stuff it’s more like “Vrooooom Let’s go mofos!” on the first try. Impressive.

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Well, the wisps of white smoke that I noticed during the Relic Run turned into a steamer exhaust, gone be the head gasket. Made it home, temp stayed around 185 and had the heater blowing. Was down about 1 gallon of water when I refilled to check loss.

So now, wondering if I farm this out or do it at home......
 
It is not a hard job to do. The you have to send the head and the manifolds to be planned and make sure the manifold get planned together. Buy the kit for head gasket from toyota and send the valves seals to be installed and seated.
 
Agree with Rafael. 2F head is an easy job. Have the oil galley plug fixed either by the machine shop or by you while the head is off. Fix involves drilling out failure prone aluminum plug, tapping and installing a set screw. Simple fix.
 
It is not a hard job to do. The you have to send the head and the manifolds to be planned and make sure the manifold get planned together. Buy the kit for head gasket from toyota and send the valves seals to be installed and seated.
By the way, when you come over Tuesday, the AC unit I need maintenance on is now in the garage, and painted yellow:p
 
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Thank you guys. So removing the peripherals didn’t take long. Drained the water from block and radiator, move all I could out of the way.

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Oily waters! Will dump engine oil tomorrow
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Water pump. Thinking of replacing since it is the wrong one with oil cooler. But looks like I need to remove radiator to get pump as I cant remove the fan. Is that correct? I will spraying the bolts with pb blaster for the next few days
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Well, head came off. The exhaust came off fairly easily, lots of PB blaster helped.

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Separating it from the block was easy enough, but moving it out was a bear . Not sure howmto reinstall without damaging the new head gasket
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Head up on my bench, will get it to recommended shop next week.
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The gasket separated, it blew between 4 and. 5
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will clean up block tomorrow. Any recommendations welcome!
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Cleaned block surf and pistons with soft scraper and wd40,
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Replaced leaky power steering reservoir o-ring with one from this kit
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Stripped, sanded, cleaned, prime and painted valve cover with engine enamel paint

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And finally opened up the therm housing port to get it back to standard. Will need the factory hoses next. Will be calling Kurt Monday…
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Got the head and manifold back from the shop, clean and redone! They replaced the valve seals (which I had given to them) and springs, told me the springs were out of spec, worn and crooked. Anyway, just got it home and I under closer inspection I now see there is a second spring inside the other, this is new. I was able to push them down with a screwdriver, so not sure how much extra support they provide.

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Using Dave’s picker to place head on new gasket
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with every in, bolted, set valve rockers clearances
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valve cover bling bling, thermostat and hoses, and manifold with remflex gasket

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Well, engine starts right up, sounded smooth and nice. Then….steam…..temp got up to 190, no heat on the heater inside, and coolant began to overflow. Getting an older version head gasket to get back at it, hopefully that’s it.

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Got it back to normal, running nice and cool. Then remember I needed to pay attention to the front diff, since I can’t remove the bashed in drain plug. got this little extractor pump on eBay for about $25. In a about 25 mins it had emptied 3 liters of chockie milkshake from the housing. It just pumped away connected to battery. Fresh fluid in.

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So, running around doing errands yesterday, coming off a good drive at 55 mph on 74, got to my turn and engine shutdown. Pulled over and open hood, everything was connected and fuel flowing. After about a minute, got it restarted but wouldnt hold idle. Got it home and gave the idle screw on the carb about 3/4 turn and it idle fine, no more problems,
after reviewing other posts decided to check the valve clearances with engine hot, and found a few were zero, so resettled all of them and turned screw back 3/4 turn. Hoping to go for a test later today or tomorrow
 
Parking brake, no have none. So ordered some of the ElDorado rear calipers with built in parking brakes and came today. Test fit them on the rear disk brackets and they fit as advertised. But while tinkering with it found the spacers currently there are not all that great. So ordering replacements too.
Now to figure out the cables. Thinking the Wildwood universal kit for the rear connectors, then a single 1/8” cable to pull the Wildwood bracket and connect it to the floor hand lever. Hope to get to it this weekend. CPP makes the kits for hot rods and old classics, they don’t have that front cable though.

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