Oil pump retaining bolt

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O.K. Trying to do a little clean up of of some engine items this weekend. The rear oil pump bolt always had a bit of a leak to it and was loose. I removed the bolt to find it had been replaced by the PO with a 7/16thX 3" bolt.
Oh My!

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So I've looked most of the day(including search and FAQ) trying to find the proper bolt to fill this hole and can find nothing. Tried a few extras I had lying around and they did not work either.
12M X 1.75 and 12M X 1.50
Can anyone help me with the correct size?
Are one of the above bolts the one I need and the PO fawked up the threads so I'll need to pull the pan?
I know the bolt has contacted the crank at some point and it should be inspected, but that will have to wait for another time if I can help it.

TIA
Scott
 
First, a disclaimer:
The oil pump bracket bolts are heavily staked in place and should never be removed, unless there is access to the factory alignment jig that sets the oil pump bore perfectly in line with the distributor shaft.

I have pulled those bolts out of a junk block once. IIRC, they were a large, coarse thread. Prolly 12x1.75. The Pn for the bolts is 91212-41235, which indicates it is a 12mm bolt, 35mm long. There is also a special washer that goes under those two bolts, PN 97412-91200.

If the threads in the block are boogered, perhaps a 7/16 bolt could be passed through w/ a selflocking nut on the inside. Dunno if that would clear the crank though...
 
First, a disclaimer:
The oil pump bracket bolts are heavily staked in place and should never be removed, unless there is access to the factory alignment jig that sets the oil pump bore perfectly in line with the distributor shaft.

Learn something new every day. Thanks Jim.
 
First, a disclaimer:
The oil pump bracket bolts are heavily staked in place and should never be removed, unless there is access to the factory alignment jig that sets the oil pump bore perfectly in line with the distributor shaft.

I have pulled those bolts out of a junk block once. IIRC, they were a large, coarse thread. Prolly 12x1.75. The Pn for the bolts is 91212-41235, which indicates it is a 12mm bolt, 35mm long. There is also a special washer that goes under those two bolts, PN 97412-91200.

If the threads in the block are boogered
That learned me, too.
Couple of things for clarification, Not positive what "heavily staked" means.
And is the block supposed to be threaded?
I was under the impression (prolly because my block is this way) that the passage is smooth and the threads are located on the pump.

Thanks again.
 
Problem is that the "special washers" are steel washers with a bonded o-ring in them, and after a trip to the hot tank, they leak. So they may have to come out. mine did, and there was nothing but disintegrated rubber for the o rings seal. certainly wouldnt be a big leak, but I hate all oil leaks.

The factory uses a punch and dings the end of the threads to prevent backing out. clean up the threads before you re-install the bolts.

Being that the distributor rides only in a fixed bore in the block, and cam does as, well, removing this block doesnt affect this... It does affect oil pump alignment, but with the flat tang drive, there is room for misalignment. With the block nearly snugged down, there was only a few thousandths of movement on mine.
 
Thanks for the replies.
This is what I did to remedy the problem.
Considering that the 7/16 bolt wasn't really applying any
holding pressure to the oil pump, and had been this way since I brought the 40 home over two years ago, I felt there would not be an issue with alignment of the dizzy and pump.
I grabbed a couple of 12m taps, one a 1.50 the other a 1.75 and tried both in the bore. The 1.50 fed into the bore the easiest and farthest, so I went with that.

Re-tapping the threads was very easy, very little pressure was needed to clean up the threads. Removing the tap revealed a bit of dirty oil and grit, but no clean shavings.
I blew compressed air through the bore and snugged up the bolt I had to replace the missing one. I did this a couple of times to make relatively sure there were no shavings left in or on the threads. I then tightened up the bolt with a lock washer in place and changed the oil. I found no shavings or metal bits in the drained oil and am fairly confident that none remain in the engine.
I sprayed some de-greaser on the engine and cleaned it up, started it and looked for leaks. It seems to be holding well. I will keep an eye on this area for leaks and if any are noticed, will replace the present bolt with an OEM bolt and washer.

Thanks again for the input. :beer:
 
I have pulled those bolts out of a junk block once. IIRC, they were a large, coarse thread. Prolly 12x1.75. The Pn for the bolts is 91212-41235, which indicates it is a 12mm bolt, 35mm long. There is also a special washer that goes under those two bolts, PN 97412-91200.

I know this is an old thread but one of only two I could find referencing this part. Hopefully it saves someone else time in the future.

94712-91200 is discontinued from Toyota with no successor. After some scouring of parts lists, I found a Lexus part number for the same item. 90210-11002 is a 12mm ID, 18mm OD bonded sealing washer and fits the M12 bolt to mount the oil pump through the block. The picture is the bolt (which is staked at the end), the original washer that disintegrated when I removed it and a generic M12 washer from a kit on Amazon. The generic one was not the same inner diameter or outer diameter. I only wanted to do this once and opted for the $6 replacement from Lexus instead of testing the cheap Chinese version.

I needed for a 1974 F engine, for what it's worth. Hope it helps!

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I know this is an old thread but one of only two I could find referencing this part. Hopefully it saves someone else time in the future.

94712-91200 is discontinued from Toyota with no successor. After some scouring of parts lists, I found a Lexus part number for the same item. 90210-11002 is a 12mm ID, 18mm OD bonded sealing washer and fits the M12 bolt to mount the oil pump through the block. The picture is the bolt (which is staked at the end), the original washer that disintegrated when I removed it and a generic M12 washer from a kit on Amazon. The generic one was not the same inner diameter or outer diameter. I only wanted to do this once and opted for the $6 replacement from Lexus instead of testing the cheap Chinese version.

I needed for a 1974 F engine, for what it's worth. Hope it helps!

View attachment 3587887

View attachment 3614658
Mud is the gift that keeps on giving. I’m in need of this right now and boom - somebody’s been down this road! I’m rebuild a 2F and the sealing washer is 18mm OD and 11.5 ID (probably 12mm since the rubber can expand to fit and seal on the bolt. FYI for a 60 Series the bolts are M12x1.75 @ 43mm including the head (threads are 35mm long).
 

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