Oil Plug Gasket Qustion

[Coolerman]

Today I was excited. I was adding fluids to the diffs, t-case, tranny and engine in preparation for it's first start in many months.

Everything going well. The engine was the last to receive fluid. I poured in 1 qt then noticed a drip from the plug. I was thinking , oops, forgot to tighten it, so I tightened it up (it was loose) Then poured in the 2nd qt, got a phone call, came back and still dripping.... Hmmmm So I really torqued it down, and the damn thing was STILL leaking. Getting a bit frustrated I got on MUD, did a search and found a thread where POSER says the gasket is supposed to be a fiber gasket, not rubber, not copper.

Well.... I drained the 2 qts out and sure enough, my plug has a copper gasket. Threads on plug are in good shape, no dents in the sealing surface. So it must be the copper gasket. It's late Saturday evening, Toyota dealer is closed Sunday so what can I sub for the correct fiber gasket?

I have at my disposal:

1/16 rubber sheet so I could easily cut a rubber gasket

Sheet of standard thin fiber type gasket material. Maybe I could cut out two or three and stack them?

An O-ring that fits the plug but it has a small diameter.

I could also wait till Monday, spend 20 minutes getting to the dealer, wait 20 minutes for the counter drone to tell me it doesn't exist, then come back and call Cdan...

Suggestions?

 

[Pighead]

Got any of that silicone RTV stuff in a tube?

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Use a new gasket each time. they cost $1 from the dealer.

 

[Coolerman]

Got any of that silicone RTV stuff in a tube?

I have gray, red, blue, black and clear.... Any preference? Rather than that I will wait till Monday and try the dealer...

I'm a bit confused, we use copper gaskets in the brake system where the pressure is measured in hundreds of PSI why would the copper not work for the low (no) pressure oil plug? Surface area? The brake washers are small compared to the large oil plug.

I guess I could wrap the threads with teflon tape, smear the plug and copper gasket with gray RTV and put the o-ring on....

 

[jimhendrixx]

Coolerman,
I would for sure get one from the dealer. My experience has taught me to always get one from the dealer. Heck, if you lived close i give you one from my shop, i got an extra!

Then you have to play the waiting game and that sucks!

best of luck my friend!

 

[Coolerman]

Yeah, well I still don't get why copper doesn't work, but I'll try the dealer Monday. Guess I'll get 10 of them...

 

[Caddisfly]

If your '71 has the same size oil drain plug as my '78, could you post the part number of the gaskets after you get back from the dealer's?

Thanks.

 

[Coolerman]

If your '71 has the same size oil drain plug as my '78, could you post the part number of the gaskets after you get back from the dealer's?

Thanks.

Well the EPC shows the part number for the oil drain plug gasket as 12101B for a 3/69 to 1/80 Cruiser.

 

[Pinion]

If you remove the plug, there is probably some grit in there.

I use cork sheets and cut a piece out to fit. Next oil change I am switching to RTV.

 

[Big Todd]

Here locally NAPA auto parts had them for my 76

 

[Coolerman]

Just checked the Advanced Auto parts web site. They list a replacement plug and gasket for $2.79.
Part #65222

 

[FJ40Jim]

I'm a bit confused, we use copper gaskets in the brake system where the pressure is measured in hundreds of PSI why would the copper not work for the low (no) pressure oil plug? Surface area? The brake washers are small compared to the large oil plug.

The brake unions are machined. The pan gasket surface is the sheetmetal pan welded to the inner nutplate. It's a VERY irregular surface. A squishy fiber gasket is the way to seal it.

Oil drain plug gaskets are available from the dealer, as well as all aftermarket sources.

 

[IDave]

Next oil change I am switching to RTV.

I've had poor luck with RTV, somewhat of a toss. I guess because the oil is always drooling off the lip of the drain, so you don't get a good seal.

 

[Landpimp]

our local parts store had fiber or rubber, I use OEM when I can and now have a good stash of them........which I can never seem to find when I need them........guess it should not be a "stash"

 

[FJ40 TOOLMAN]

Use some teflon tape then get the right one next time you change oil.

 

[Pighead]

I've been using only RTV in a few places that call for a gasket. Paper gaskets mostly, but on all my drain & fill plugs. It takes just a little longer, but I budget a full day and a six-pack to do an oil change. (I'll throw in a valve adjustment, bolts re-torque and a timing check while the oil is changing though)
After draining the pan, I'll stuff a rag into the drainhole and let it sit for a beer. Wipe off the plug threads real well and let it sit for a beer. Pull the rag out of the drainhole and wipe the threads with the cleanest corner of the rag. The rag will have wicked some of the oil out of the pan, so drooling is minimized. Alternately, I suppose you could jack up the rear of the rig to eliminate oil drooling out the drainhole while you work, but I have patience. And more beer. And I'm lazy.
I put a dab of the RTV (I use orange) on a little finger and run it around the drainhole thrads, Put another dab on the same finger and run it around the drainplug threads. I'll let that set for a beer. Put the plug in the hole and thread it in halfway. Put another dab on the finger and run it around the exposed threads on the plug. Let that sit, for, oh, I don't know...a beer?
Turn the plug in finger-tight and let it sit. Last thing, after waiting a beer, is to torque the plug down and and add the oil.
That's probably more work than putting on the correct gasket. But I've had good luck with the RTV. I can never find the correct gasket when I need it, but I can always find the tube of RTV...

I've had poor luck with RTV, somewhat of a toss. I guess because the oil is always drooling off the lip of the drain, so you don't get a good seal.

 

[Trollhole]

You know I always thought I was using RTV the proper way it was intended. Until a friend of mine read the back of the package. What? Read the instructions? Never!

He stated the proper way was to make a bead tehn install the part and only hand tighten the bolts down to align the two pieces then let it cure and then come back and torque it down.


Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[Coolerman]

Well, I tried the teflon tape and the O-Ring on the drain plug, added 2 qts, and so far so good. Did not use any RTV. We will see what tomorrow brings. I will get some OEM gaskets tomorrow just to speed it up next time.

For the RTV I always put it on, let it skin over then assemble the parts. Never had a leak that way.

 

[jerbear]

Hey Coolerman

Sorry for the hijack, but what is the "EPC" you speak of to get part numbers?
TIA
Jerry

 

[Coolerman]

It's the official Toyota microfiche on CD program.

Electronic Parts Catalog is what I think it stands for. It can be downloaded from a few places. Comes with video instructions for installing it. Very cool way to see what parts are what. Same diagrams that SOR uses on their web site.