Oil Galley Plug Replacement

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I just saw a guy run a smoke-machine thru an engine's oiling system to get a visual on any oil leaks, before any other work commences. So connect the 2F PVC system from the pcv valve to the valve cover. The smoke can also be applied in the cooling system. It was a real shop, with a dedicated smoke machine.

A cooling pressure leak-down test would be possible with a flat plate covering the water pump and thermostat holes, adapting a custom fitting for a radiator cap to use the already available pressure test.

So, the cooling pressure test, the visual smoke-test for the oil, and a compression test for the combustion chamber - a simple engine report card that could be helpful to not get off-track. That covers every possible leak-location on the head gasket, and around the oil pan / front cover, front and rear main, and side cover, and all the core plugs in the castings. It would be harder to test the valve guides, which might leak exhaust into, or loose vacuum to the valve cover, but I could imagine someone making that happen as well.
 
73FJ40 said:
You guys have media overload if you need the train of threads spelled out for you.

Mark A. wants to start a betting pool on the pasted in plug.

Mark J. says first cold start, maybe 2.

Maigheoman runs the pi r2 calc to estimate the "motive force" working on the paste job.

Referring back to Mark J.'s cold morning start being a triggering factor, and common (misconception?) that heavy weight oil boosts oil pump pressure,

Don't use 20w-50.

Obviously, that doesn't apply to all of the thread HIJACKERS THAT JUMPED IN AFTER THE FACT! :hmm: :rofl: :flipoff2:
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Yeah, but what's the biggest tires I can put on my old worn out suspension?


Also, how many cup holders does it have?


I have a 40 that's been stored in a carpet lined crate for 40 years......
 
So, are OEM Welch-plugs not like the core plug, which have a flare on the OD?

I'd easily see myself getting confused by the subtle differences, particularly with the orientation or style of replacement parts. I put stuff on wrong all the time, and have to fix things.

There is a Welch plug on the front of a '74 starter bushing. It looks like someone tried to stake it in place, with three, unevenly-spaced, strikes around the housing that contains the plug with a slotted screwdriver. But, I'm not seeing any vampire.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
If the block is out of the vehicle, we tap for the late model plug. If it's in the vehicle, we use an appropriate 24mm welch plug with compound/sealant.
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1/2 npt or 1/2 BSP?
 
Use the most common. The next guy to remove it is probably going to be a machine shop so they can degrease and clean the block for a rebuild.
 
73FJ40 said:
Since these will never have to be serviced, go with the cheaper and readily available NPT
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Taps cost about the same and I already have both. The aftermarket plugs I've seen are deeper depending on how far they end up threading in there is a chance it will block oil flow to the 1st main. The genuine Toyota plug is shorter and has the proper metric Allen key size (yes i can get caught up too much in making things "correct" ) pretty sure BSP is correct but the Toyota plugs come with sealer all over the threads and its hard to tell if its a 55 degree thread or a 60 degree...
 
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it is 1/2 BSPT. could you do a quality job with NPT? yes just be careful to only tap so far that you wont plug the main bearing feed
 
TheBussman said:
Taps cost about the same and I already have both. The aftermarket plugs I've seen are deeper depending on how far they end up threading in there is a chance it will block oil flow to the 1st main. The genuine Toyota plug is shorter and has the proper metric Allen key size (yes i can get caught up too much in making things "correct" ) pretty sure BSP is correct but the Toyota plugs come with sealer all over the threads and its hard to tell if its a 55 degree thread or a 60 degree...
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Seems like you already had the answer to your question before you posted it.

If you had mentioned you already had all the taps and the OEM plug, talk about a no-brainer.
 
73FJ40 said:
Seems like you already had the answer to your question before you posted it.

If you had mentioned you already had all the taps and the OEM plug, talk about a no-brainer.
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there is no documentation I could find stating that the factory plugs are BSPT. I had to wire wheel all the sealant off of one of the new plugs and then get a thread pitch gauge, not to measure pitch but to measure the angle of the threads.
 
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