Oil Galley Plug Replacement

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Joined
Mar 3, 2013
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Location
Ithaca, NY
Just finished replacing the 24mm oil galley plug on the front of my 2f motor block. Thought I would post a few pics of the way I did it.
First pic is what it looked like when it broke loose and sprayed oil all over the engine compartment.
Second pic is how I removed it. Drilled small hole in it and screwed a sheet metal screw into it, popped it out with a pry bar claw.
Next series of pictures are the port cleaned up with emery cloth and parts cleaner.
The new plug 24mm.
Used Vibration-Tite 550 to seal the new plug into the port.
Used a socket with an extension to tap the plug into until it was seated and then cleaned up the outside of the plug and block with emery cloth and parts cleaner.
Then applied JB Weld High Temp Metal Epoxy to seal and bond it to the block.
Seems to be fine, time will tell!🤣

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Curious why you decided to use that style of plug?
 
What year is the rig?…..and I’m thinking that should have been a welsh plug….and in your original picture, look like someone installed it backwards. And I certainly don’t think a gasket goes in there.

Not sure how longe the cup freeze plug will last, even with JB.

Most guys tap out the hole and install a pipe plug.
 
What year is the rig?…..and I’m thinking that should have been a welsh plug….and in your original picture, look like someone installed it backwards. And I certainly don’t think a gasket goes in there.

Not sure how longe the cup freeze plug will last, even with JB.

Most guys tap out the hole and install a pipe plug.

I suspect we're seeing the back side? of the Welch plug, and that isn't a gasket but rather FIPG or some other kind of sealant that was used when the plug was installed. I would agree a Welch plug would the correct plug and the factory later model threaded plug even better. However, the threaded plug is tough to do on the vehicle without the block removed/bare imo. There is an oil galley hole just behind the plug that I believe feeds the timing gears. Tapping for a plug without getting debris in that hole would be tough. If anyone's done it on the block in the vehicle without further tear down, I'd love to hear it. Fortunately the correct 24mm plugs are readily available.

EDIT: You're right, looked at the top pic, it appears to be in backwards with some kind of sealant across the forward face. Interesting.
 
Anyone want to start a betting pool on how long that lasts?🤦🏻
 
If the block is out of the vehicle, we tap for the late model plug. If it's in the vehicle, we use an appropriate 24mm welch plug with compound/sealant.
I'll add that to the list for the "next time" I pull the engine. I am assuming that I will need to pull the radiator to get a good driving angle for seating the plug?

Do you stock these Kurt or are they a Napa item?
 
I'll add that to the list for the "next time" I pull the engine. I am assuming that I will need to pull the radiator to get a good driving angle for seating the plug?

Do you stock these Kurt or are they a Napa item?

We stock them. I'm sure any good Cruiser shop has em or machines shop could get 24mm too
 
I just saw a vid from a car repair shop. It seems like there can be a wide variance in the plug size at those made for Ford or Dodge diesels. Be a good plan to measure the fit before trusting its correct. Getting a Toyota one is likely worth the few added cents of some generic one.
 
I'll add that to the list for the "next time" I pull the engine. I am assuming that I will need to pull the radiator to get a good driving angle for seating the plug?

Do you stock these Kurt or are they a Napa item?
Is this a common problem that just cleaning up the surface really well, using some FIPG, and then properly seating a welch plug does not solve? Or is this one of those maintenance oil leak items that are oh so fun?
 
Is this a common problem that just cleaning up the surface really well, using some FIPG, and then properly seating a welch plug does not solve? Or is this one of those maintenance oil leak items that are oh so fun?
If the plug lets go, your engine is toast. Hence the permanent fix using a threaded plug. Same thing for the plug near the #5 cylinder.

I see 90330-24013 as the part number but it's NLA from Mr. T.
 
It looks like there is a matching plug on the back of the engine. Is it the same size? (I might as well buy two since shipping is more than the price of the parts....I hate that.)
If you don’t have a short time frame, I can pick up a couple the next time I’m delivering parts to SOR, and include them in your order.😉
 
Is this a common problem that just cleaning up the surface really well, using some FIPG, and then properly seating a welch plug does not solve? Or is this one of those maintenance oil leak items that are oh so fun?
No. A proper plug, properly seated, will last decades.
 
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I like to set mine by holding a small ball peen hammer over the middle of the plug, and hitting the hammer with a larger ball peen hammer, face to face. I set the idler plugs in the transfer case the same way. Never had an issue with either.😉
I would proceed cautiously with an aftermarket plug. I have seen ones that were too thin IMO. But as mentioned, thorough preparation is key.

Since the galley hole steps down directly behind the plug, the block itself provides a good stop for using a dremel directly in front of the step, so that the plug is slightly nested in the hole once striken. I did this once on a customer’s rebuilt engine because the plug the machine shop installed failed shortly after startup, and it spooked me.

IIRC, it was @fjl40 engine. Am I remembering this correctly John? It was over 30 years ago.
 
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