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Oil Galley Plug Fixes

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by Rigger, Dec 29, 2009.

  1. Rigger

    Rigger Ramble Tamble Staff Member Moderator

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    I am setting up this thread, which will go in the FAQ section, with links to some of our better Oil Galley Plug Fix threads. I think this will make it easier to find help on this topic. One of the problems with searching for help on this issue is that some people spell "galley" without the "e". I'll try to pull all these threads together and place the links here. Let me know if I miss any. To keep this thread clean, I will review your posted suggestions, edit my list, and then delete your post.

    Thanks.

    Galley Plug Fixes:

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/113830-what-well-whatever-its-leaking.html

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/326553-motor-spewing-oil-here-what-why-arrgh.html

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/191622-oil-galley-head-plug.html

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/351460-my-first-galley-plug-fix.html#post5161284

    What to do if you break a tap:

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/150510-broke-tap-oil-galley-hole.html

    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/226408-5-galley-plug-tap-broke.html
     
    Last edited: Jan 15, 2010
  2. HopLite

    HopLite

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    ...this thead too...
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/226408-5-galley-plug-tap-broke.html

    the original fix: tap with metric machine threads (M8x1.25), jb weld the plug

    an update: 18mo and appx. 10k miles...currently have a slow oil weeping leak. I am thinking the jb weld was not flexible enough for the thermal expansion/contraction of the cast steel around the wrought steel threaded insert...causing the jb weld to thermally fatigue and allow a slow weeping oil leak.

    the plan: remove plug, clean-up oil and jb weld, apply "RightStuff" from NAPA and re-insert plug. wish i would have used a metric pipe tap instead of a metric machine tap.

    I have no garage and its flippin cold. Oil weep is not bad, so I have no idea on when it'll get done.

    good idea on the organization of the galley plug fixes.
     
  3. Michael Hanson

    Michael Hanson

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    pull head,tap ,thread,plug,valve job, good another 150000 miles. MIke
     
  4. Eporter

    Eporter

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    So I've read through all these varied threads but I'm still not sure if I need to remove the head bolt?

    Is it bad for the head/gasket to remove just one bolt and then re-torque that one bolt to spec?

    Can I just drill in enough to create enough threads for a hex plug?

    In a perfect world the head would be off and on a bench. In my world the truck's outside and it's cold!
     
  5. cruiser88

    cruiser88

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    You should never have to remove the head for this fix.
     
  6. Eporter

    Eporter

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    yep, no removal of the head, got that. However, do you really need to remove the one head bolt that is behind the galley plug? Can you just drill/tap into a certain distance without hitting the head bolt?
     
  7. norsk

    norsk SILVER Star

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    Removing the head bolt allows you to insert in the hole, a cloth with a string on it to provide a STOP where any metal filings can be stopped and then removed. A small magnet tool can also be used to pick up any pieces as well.

    doug t
     
  8. Eporter

    Eporter

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  9. HopLite

    HopLite

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    Updates...

    The original fix:
    - mileage = 146407
    - date = 18 June 2008
    - 8x1.25 machine thread
    - JB weld epoxy set-screw into place

    The problem:
    JB weld is not flexible. My theory is that the thermal cycling of the engine (hot/cold,etc) caused expansion and cooling of the cylinder head which fatigued the JB weld which gradually cracked...until I had a slow oil leak again.

    The new fix:
    - mileage = 156679
    - date = 06 March 2010
    - longevity of JB weld fix about 10272mi or appx 20.5 months of daily driving
    - The set screw was most definitely not tight. I dare say it was 'loose.' As I unthreaded the set screw to clean and prep for the form-a-gasket, the epoxy that was between the threads was disturbingly brittle. It was obvious that it had lost any function keeping the set screw in place. Hence the leak.
    - Appx 3/4qt of oil was lost since last oil change (154059mi, 04 Nov 09...or 2620mi; appx 4months)
    - same 8x1.25 machine thread
    - same set screw
    - "The Right Stuff" form-a-gasket was used to 'fix' the set screw into place.

    ...only time will tell if this is the best fix for a machine screw.
    Again...I wish I had used a pipe thread instead of a machine thread.
    Hope this helps...Hoplite
    :steer:
     
  10. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

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    Why not just use a large dollop of Red Loctite 262, which is both a thread sealant and a thread-locker.... ? (and thermally stable).
     
  11. mtb_rider

    mtb_rider

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    This is what I used. Though I tapped the hole out with a 1/16" pipe tap (a little tough to find), and then, likewise, installed a 1/16" pipe plug (even tougher to find), with the 262 sealant. Don't know my exact mileage, but been around 8 months, roughly, since the repair, and not the slightest dribble coming from it. The beauty of the 1/16" NPT tap and plug is no drilling was required. Since my galley plug came out on its own, :doh: this saved me some time and hassle.
     
  12. HopLite

    HopLite

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    The thermal failure of JB epoxy has, in my opinion, less to to with the ability to withstand heat and more with the ability to withstand the contractions of the cast metal (i.e. cooling) and the expansion (i.e. heating) causing small dimensional changes between the set screw and the hole. JB epoxy seemed too brittle for the cyclic expansion/contraction...so it eventually failed. I did not use red loctite as the only way that I know of to remove a bolt with red loctite...is to heat it.

    Then again...was it the loctite or the tapered thead that was your success? I'm leaning toward tapered thread...as it is self-sealing. Which is why I wish I had use the tapered pipe thread instead of the parallel machine threads...
    :meh:
     
  13. mtb_rider

    mtb_rider

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    Yes, the tapered thread is self sealing. I simply used the Loctite sealant as a precautionary measure, for extra sealing AND to prevent the off chance of it ever working itself loose. I put no thought into the issue of removing it in the future, because simply, why would I need too? If it ever needs to be removed down the line for any type of machining purpose, then the head will be off the engine, and using heat to do so will not be an issue.
     
  14. Rigger

    Rigger Ramble Tamble Staff Member Moderator

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    I looked at my galley plug the other day. Still stock, still holding, still on my list of things to do.

    I like the pipe thread option. That makes a lot of sense.

    [Voice lowers to a whisper] This is a tech thread, and must necessarily be kept tech, but I keep thinking what a great business opportunity this would be. A Galley Plug Fix Kit! The kit would contain rags, lube, a tap, a plug, and a set of instructions, sort of like the PHH kit over in the 80-series section. But, again, this is tech, so I'd never mention that here. Shhhh!!

    :)
     
  15. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

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    Heheheh...

    Speak up, can't hear you :D
     
  16. Mark W

    Mark W

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    I have a much better kit for sale... A small bottle of mechanical know how. Youy open the vial and inhale it.
    Colorless and scentless and no taste either.

    Works great.

    Only $9.99 plus shipping and handling

    Order now and I'll toss in a "make your own hydrogen from water don't need no gasoline anymore" kit for only $1.39

    Hurry, supplies limited!

    Mark...
     
  17. Spike Strip

    Spike Strip Adorable Deplorable SILVER Star

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    Mark, we need your paypal ....

    :rolleyes:

    ;)
     
  18. olija

    olija

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    So I attempted to perform this fix on my 3FE. I used a common 8mm coarse thread bolt and a lock washer and red lock tight. It leaked worse after I did this repair! So I removed the bolt, cleaned the oil off it with brake cleaner, then applied high-temp thread sealant and installed the bolt with the lock washer again. I overtightened the bolt and felt it suddenly get easy. Now I have a cracked head. The crack is on the 3o'clock position on the galley plug hole and is about 3/4" long. Any suggestions on how I'm gonna fix this? JB weld doesn't sound like it'll hold. How about brazing it?