FrazzledHunter
SILVER Star
I'd worry that I didn't hit the bottom of the pan.
Is it easy to tell if you have the intake hose down far enough? I guess you could measure the volume of what you pump out.
Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (1 Viewer)
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Is it easy to tell if you have the intake hose down far enough? I guess you could measure the volume of what you pump out.
bloc
SILVER Star
Do it the first time then pull the plug to see if any more comes out. If not, mark that depth on the suction hose and future changes will get that amount.I'd worry that I didn't hit the bottom of the pan.
Just put him in deeper than your measure rod and then let it pump. When you see the pump sucks air, push deeper, wait till pump sucks air, push….I'd worry that I didn't hit the bottom of the pan.
no hidden magic behind.
You’ll definitely notice once you have pumped out the most of the oil.
Oh sure you can measure. Take your „whateveryouusetodumpoil“, measure the weight, drain the oil with the pump, weight, convert it and you know how much it is…
Like 0,8-0,85kg/liter -> weight x 0,85 = volume
Ps.: after pumping the oil you still should pull the oil plug at the buttom but its way less messy and you can remove easily oil if you put in too much new oil with a pump like this.
bloc
SILVER Star
Can’t go wrong with Genuine Toyota or even TRD. The former are even under $5 at dealer discount sites and simply can’t be beat for build quality.
Toyota filter and just went from M1 5W30 to Castrol Edge 5W30 Euro Formula.
What I had laying around.
What I had laying around.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Anyone using Amazon oil in their LC200? I put it in our GX and works fine. Gotta change the oil next weekend so have time to get whatever. I switched to full synthetic 5w30 last time.
Whatever oil filter fits… if you getting some kind of known brand you never go that bad. Especially when you do like me a oil change every 6kkm with the cheapest oil I’m able to find and that fits the Toyota specs for my diesel.
Never noticed any different behavior no matter if expensive high end filter or cheap. It is not rly that much like with air filters where you can feel differences.
bloc
SILVER Star
You may not feel a difference but the oil filter being high quality is critical.
The metal support tube inside the element should keep the filter material from passing into the oiling system if it fails, but I don’t want to trust my engine to “should”
There are documented cases of well-respected filter companies trashing engines. Like one write up I read about a wix filter on a 1FZ.
But that underlines the statement...
The brand filter can also fail in the same way. In the end, most filters that are not necessarily sold absolutely no-name somewhere on ebay come from a few dozen factories that simply process orders from the filter brands or car brands.
(There are also people out there who believe that even one employee of Red Bull or Monster, for example, have ever held a can in their hands in production).
The 17$ TRD filter did not use any other material than a filter from Mann for 12$ or one from Bosch for 10$ except that it generated 5$ more money...
Of course, you should not use the filter paper that was pressed together somewhere in Pakistan and sold for 99ct but that should be clear to everyone.
bloc
SILVER Star
The Genuine Toyota filter is paper made in Thailand if I remember correctly, but their quality control is the same as used building their vehicles and as a result likely higher level than even name brand aftermarket offerings.
And as I said, the Genuine Toyota filter can be had all day for less than $5. There really is no reason not to use them (in the US) other than convenience.. and to that I say order a half dozen at a time.
When I bought the TRD Filters they were $10.xx (40% off sale).
Sounds like the OEM ones are good enough.
IMO Toyota filters are cheap and easy enough to find there is no reason to use a different brand. I pick them up for both of our rigs in packs of 6 from the local dealer (which sells parts at a discounted rate), they are usually $5 or less. Cheaper than a low-tier filter from Wal-Mart. There are also lots of fake filters running around, so only source them from actual dealers.
Agreed. Even the TRD filters are cheap and easy to get so not sure why you'd use anything else.
Doing my first oil change this week. Went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after watching Project Farm's oil competition. And as a respectable Mud member I'm switching to 5w30.
Doing my first oil change this week. Went with Pennzoil Ultra Platinum after watching Project Farm's oil competition. And as a respectable Mud member I'm switching to 5w30.
bloc
SILVER Star
But it doesn’t have an R for Racing!
But of a SQOD question…. I just finished my first oil change after ditching the dealership.
Does the oil filter need to snap into the oil filter housing or do you just place it in there? I put a little bit of down force on the filter, but it gave with the spring in the bottom.
Does the oil filter need to snap into the oil filter housing or do you just place it in there? I put a little bit of down force on the filter, but it gave with the spring in the bottom.
bloc
SILVER Star
Factory filters fit snug on the metal support tube but don't "snap" on or anything. As you reinstall the cap the spring in the base pushes the top of the filter against it's flange.. done.
TRD ones fit loosely over the tube with gaskets on each end.
Mostly on-topic, mostly whining, high likelihood of duplication....
So on a '21 LC200 HE, there are 11...yes, ELEVEN total skidplate/cover bolts one has to remove in order to complete an oil change. I find this absolutely inexcusable and Toyota should be embarrassed by this cost-cutting decision. Toyota should have simply installed a second small cover beneath the filter cartridge similar to the oil drain cover.
As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.
Notably, taking a stock 200 LC to a quick-lube isn't an option I'd ever advise. That's an almost guaranteed way to end up with missing "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-assembly" and "Front Fender Splash Shield Sub-assembly" bolts. Ugh.
To add insult to injury, some dumb@$$ didn't stop and think that the three "Front Fender Splash Shield" bolts are relatively large plastic self-tapping-style body screws. Which means they were not intended to be removed and reinstalled more than a couple of times for fitment purposes (unlike a purpose-built access panel). I estimate one would be lucky to still have all of them after about 50-100k miles (5-15 oil changes) since the plastic gets torn up every time you remove and reinstall them.
I shouldn't have to break out a rattle can or budget for an aftermarket skidplate to efficiently maintain my vehicle! @#&%$^%%&^&^Q&^&*W^*&^E*&^@*&#^*!@^#*&@^
X
So on a '21 LC200 HE, there are 11...yes, ELEVEN total skidplate/cover bolts one has to remove in order to complete an oil change. I find this absolutely inexcusable and Toyota should be embarrassed by this cost-cutting decision. Toyota should have simply installed a second small cover beneath the filter cartridge similar to the oil drain cover.
As it is, I figure an 200 Land Cruiser owner has basically only two reasonable options: (1) Buy bright colored tractor paint of your choice and paint the heads of the eleven bolts so one doesn't need the FSM or a youtube video everytime they change the oil; or (2) buy an aftermarket skid plate that has access ports for both the cartridge and the drain.
Notably, taking a stock 200 LC to a quick-lube isn't an option I'd ever advise. That's an almost guaranteed way to end up with missing "No. 1 Engine Undercover Sub-assembly" and "Front Fender Splash Shield Sub-assembly" bolts. Ugh.
To add insult to injury, some dumb@$$ didn't stop and think that the three "Front Fender Splash Shield" bolts are relatively large plastic self-tapping-style body screws. Which means they were not intended to be removed and reinstalled more than a couple of times for fitment purposes (unlike a purpose-built access panel). I estimate one would be lucky to still have all of them after about 50-100k miles (5-15 oil changes) since the plastic gets torn up every time you remove and reinstall them.
I shouldn't have to break out a rattle can or budget for an aftermarket skidplate to efficiently maintain my vehicle! @#&%$^%%&^&^Q&^&*W^*&^E*&^@*&#^*!@^#*&@^
X
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