Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (5 Viewers)

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I'm confused. Is the Fumoto and the Jowett serving the same purpose? If I want to make my oil changes as easy as possible (never changed oil before, but I have done diffs/transfer case, trans drain/fill) what all will I need?
 
I ordered these for all my Toyota's...

21 LC, Tacoma, and Tundra. M12x1,25 oil drain valve (sb-210121-s-na).


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I'm confused. Is the Fumoto and the Jowett serving the same purpose? If I want to make my oil changes as easy as possible (never changed oil before, but I have done diffs/transfer case, trans drain/fill) what all will I need?

The Fumoto replaces the oil pan drain plug and is used to drain the oil from there.
There is a 2nd drain for the oil filter and the Jowett replaces the 2nd one so you want both.
 
The Fumoto replaces the oil pan drain plug and is used to drain the oil from there.
There is a 2nd drain for the oil filter and the Jowett replaces the 2nd one so you want both.
Got it, thanks you. I didn’t see the specific Fumoto actually linked so I’ll go back and see which one is most recommended. Thanks!
 
Is this the correct size and threading that I would need?

Amazon product ASIN B0887M5LNG
This is what I have on mine. The Budbuilt skid provides PLENTY of protection. IMHO if it gets knocked on the trail, it's God's will.

The Stahlbus seems like another option if you aren't a fan of the Fumoto, but I only have Fumoto experience - all positive.
 
Came across this thread yesterday, and pulled the plug on one of these Fumoto FN133 oil drain plugs. Is the torque spec for the Fumoto, the 29 ft lbs like the original drain plug?
 
Came across this thread yesterday, and pulled the plug on one of these Fumoto FN133 oil drain plugs. Is the torque spec for the Fumoto, the 29 ft lbs like the original drain plug?
No. Per another thread at the moment the instructions say hand tight plus 1/8 turn.

 
The spec is 13.5Nm for aluminum and 12Nm for plastic small cap.
Housing should not be tightened 34Nm for aluminum, 24.4Nm for plastic.

If you got the OEM filters, there are instructions on the box.
 
For the center cap on the filter housing….is ‘good and tight’ ok? I believe the filter housing has a stop point, correct?
No. Many get stuck doing this, sometimes resulting in destroying the filter cap to get it off.

A torque wrench is needed to do it right. Values are stamped on the cap.
 
No. Many get stuck doing this, sometimes resulting in destroying the filter cap to get it off.

A torque wrench is needed to do it right. Values are stamped on the cap.
The last time I torqued a drain pan it stripped before clicking….that is my concern.

I’m switching the housing to aluminum…thought about putting a Fumoto on it as well.
 
The last time I torqued a drain pan it stripped before clicking….that is my concern.

I’m switching the housing to aluminum…thought about putting a Fumoto on it as well.
Something must have been wrong then, whether the wrench malfunctioned, incorrect spec, bolt or nut damaged.. manufacturers don’t engineer these things to fail when using the specifications.

What’s the plan for adding the fumoto? Drill & tap? I don’t really know why.. the stock part works great if the provided tool is used correctly.
 
Something must have been wrong then, whether the wrench malfunctioned, incorrect spec, bolt or nut damaged.. manufacturers don’t engineer these things to fail when using the specifications.

What’s the plan for adding the fumoto? Drill & tap? I don’t really know why.. the stock part works great if the provided tool is used correctly
I might just try a different torque wrench. Probably forgo a valve on the filter housing and just keep it as is except add the metal housing.

The stripped pan was on my wife’s GX. I was afraid if I drilled it and tapped it and the tap came out and my wife didn’t realize she’d blow the engine so I put a new lower pan on with a Fumoto valve and all has been good.
 
I might just try a different torque wrench. Probably forgo a valve on the filter housing and just keep it as is except add the metal housing.

The stripped pan was on my wife’s GX. I was afraid if I drilled it and tapped it and the tap came out and my wife didn’t realize she’d blow the engine so I put a new lower pan on with a Fumoto valve and all has been good.
Way smarter to replace those. The female threads usually aren’t a full thickness nut.. it’s more along the lines of a T-nut or nut sert with thin walls. There isn’t much left to tap.

You can easily check calibration of torque wrenches by holding a socket stationary ina vice or on a lug nut for instance.. then hang the appropriate weight off the wrench 1 foot out the handle from the center of the wrench head. Easy calibration setup.
 
Btw you can get mostly a cheap oil pump for less than what you pay for these kinds of valves.
Draining the engine with that pump and you’ll have only a few drips of oil comming out of the regular plug.
The one i got here in Germany has a different housing but the rest is pretty much the same.

 
Btw you can get mostly a cheap oil pump for less than what you pay for these kinds of valves.
Draining the engine with that pump and you’ll have only a few drips of oil comming out of the regular plug.
The one i got here in Germany has a different housing but the rest is pretty much the same.

Is a special hose needed to get down the dipstick tube?

I have a Pela vacuum oil extractor from my previous work on European cars, and that vacuum tube won’t fit any of the Toyotas I’ve tried it on.
 
Is a special hose needed to get down the dipstick tube?

I have a Pela vacuum oil extractor from my previous work on European cars, and that vacuum tube won’t fit any of the Toyotas I’ve tried it on.
This pump has on the intake side a hose with like ~5mm diameter. Goes down easily the dipstick tube.
 

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