RET2
SILVER Star
IIRC you will need to drop it for the initall install.
Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter BigDouggieDoug
- Start date
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Yeah, I'd expect that just to keep the oil from pouring onto the skid. Just looking to make it easier for the future. Thanks!
RET2
SILVER Star
I had to drop to get wrench in to tighten the new valve, no need after initial valve install.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I’ve used the same clear line for over a 100 oil changes and it looks just as good since new.
Staring this year, I have decided to accept “built Toyota regular maintenance” from customer vehicles. I was asked a lot, but tried not to. Now though, I’m just kinda frustrated at how little the routine maintenance shops/dealerships care. That’s the only reason I have that many changes on one hose. I was kinda surprised at how many Futomo valves I find under there, but when I see one, I just use my hose.
Are people buying the F-133S or F-133N Fumoto valve. Planning my first oil change on the 200, so haven’t been underneath to find out if the long nipple will pose any issue. the short nipple F-133S valves are out of stock.
See post #150 to see how the short version works, with the nifty hose kit. Not sure if the long one would be a problem, if you are still using the stock plastic cover.
There is lots of room there for the long one, and the hose will stay on better with the long one. (filter drain)
The oil drain I put the 90 degree one, as then it is easier to put the hose on with the skip plate. On the oil plug one I would not put the straight one and would get the 90.
Just finished the first oil change on my 21 HE yesterday. Truck has 4075 miles. Job went great. No issues thanks to this thread! I drove the truck on ramps and was able to just slide a 5 gallon bucket underneath the pan drain plug. Absolutely no mess! I replaced with Toyota filter and Toyota 0W20 oil for now. Still worried about factory warranty. There is no way I would trust a Jiffy lube or the dealership on this job unless I was back there supervising!
I use the F133n. There is still enough clearance, that I didnt need to remove the cover plate on the skid. I was able to reach up from the side, remove the clip, pop on the hose and open the valve easily. In fact, I have an extra if anyone needs it. Ordered two by mistake.
@Snafu13F, I could use the F133n and I'd be happy to cover postage and about anything else you'd like. PM me when you get the time, and thanks.
Steve
Just did the first oil change on my ‘21 at 2,000 mi.
How much oil are y’all putting in the ‘18+ to get near the fill line?
I put in 8 qts, plus I always “pre-fill” the cartridge filter with maybe 0.25 qts. So all in, I’m just a bit below the 8.5 qts specified.
Looking for some other baselines, as the 0W20 is
hard to read on the stick, but appears slightly high. Next time I will try total of 8 qts.
How much oil are y’all putting in the ‘18+ to get near the fill line?
I put in 8 qts, plus I always “pre-fill” the cartridge filter with maybe 0.25 qts. So all in, I’m just a bit below the 8.5 qts specified.
Looking for some other baselines, as the 0W20 is
hard to read on the stick, but appears slightly high. Next time I will try total of 8 qts.
Since I’m OCD about things, I drained 1/3 qt (11oz). Looks good now, just below the full line. Seems total 8 qts is about right.
Yep same on 14 and 20.
I just completed my first oil change on this trunk, thanks for the post with nice pictures!
Here are is my experience...
Overall there is nothing special compared to my other vehicles. The only added step is the skid plates and the over-engineered plug in the filter cap.
Expecting a nightmare I bought the Fumoto valve to replace the drain plug. But there was no splashing and no mess, unlike the stories in this forum. The oil jet has a longer throw just because the truck is higher than a car. I just used a rectangular oil pan: Hopkins FloTool Oil Drain Pan from O'Reilly:
The oil plug is standard Toyota, exactly the same as my 97 Camry. I do not plan to install the Fumoto as there is no need - I'm using OEM plates. Instead I plan to replace the plug with a strong magnet at the next oil change, the same way I've done on all my vehicles, helping capture some of that metal floating in the oil.
The oil filter cartridge cap was easy to remove. The cap plug was not; it was stuck. I just removed the entire cap. Honestly I relay do not know what all the fuss is about this oil filter. I've been replacing this kind of oil filters in my Volvo at the bottom of the engine for 19 years every 3750 miles (it even requires the same torque 25Nm). These trucks require 10,000 miles changes so even easier. It is so much cleaner than having the filter on the side of the engine, oil dripping on the engine block, and then burning off like on my Camry. What I do not like about Toyota version is the plug on the cap (Volvo does not have it). That is just over-engineering, added expense and creating more plastic litter - the special tool included with the filter. It works fine and it is a lot easier without it. I do not plan on taking off that plug often and when I do it'll only be to refresh the gasket not to drain the oil.
The cap was damaged but still functional on my truck. The plug was stuck and so I had to get creative as I needed to move it to the new aluminum cap (it does not come with the cap). Lucky I had this Motivx oil filter wrench from amazon so I could remove the red nut (see pic on amazon) and have access to the plug while the filter was in the wrench and the wrench was in a wise.
Interesting, the Volvo cap is also plastic and it is still in good order after much more years and oil changes. As someone said in here, it is no the design, it is the gorillas at the service departments working on these trucks, dumb people not knowing how to use a torque wrench.
Here are is my experience...
Overall there is nothing special compared to my other vehicles. The only added step is the skid plates and the over-engineered plug in the filter cap.
Expecting a nightmare I bought the Fumoto valve to replace the drain plug. But there was no splashing and no mess, unlike the stories in this forum. The oil jet has a longer throw just because the truck is higher than a car. I just used a rectangular oil pan: Hopkins FloTool Oil Drain Pan from O'Reilly:
The oil plug is standard Toyota, exactly the same as my 97 Camry. I do not plan to install the Fumoto as there is no need - I'm using OEM plates. Instead I plan to replace the plug with a strong magnet at the next oil change, the same way I've done on all my vehicles, helping capture some of that metal floating in the oil.
The oil filter cartridge cap was easy to remove. The cap plug was not; it was stuck. I just removed the entire cap. Honestly I relay do not know what all the fuss is about this oil filter. I've been replacing this kind of oil filters in my Volvo at the bottom of the engine for 19 years every 3750 miles (it even requires the same torque 25Nm). These trucks require 10,000 miles changes so even easier. It is so much cleaner than having the filter on the side of the engine, oil dripping on the engine block, and then burning off like on my Camry. What I do not like about Toyota version is the plug on the cap (Volvo does not have it). That is just over-engineering, added expense and creating more plastic litter - the special tool included with the filter. It works fine and it is a lot easier without it. I do not plan on taking off that plug often and when I do it'll only be to refresh the gasket not to drain the oil.
The cap was damaged but still functional on my truck. The plug was stuck and so I had to get creative as I needed to move it to the new aluminum cap (it does not come with the cap). Lucky I had this Motivx oil filter wrench from amazon so I could remove the red nut (see pic on amazon) and have access to the plug while the filter was in the wrench and the wrench was in a wise.
Interesting, the Volvo cap is also plastic and it is still in good order after much more years and oil changes. As someone said in here, it is no the design, it is the gorillas at the service departments working on these trucks, dumb people not knowing how to use a torque wrench.
bloc
SILVER Star
Same story for the center plug.. if it isn't over tightened it comes out easily. It's only 9 ft-lbf so very easy to do.. I actually use my in-lbf torque wrench for this job to get more accuracy. To me draining the housing and drastically reducing the mess is worth the effort of the plug and drain tool.. when used correctly there is very little oil dripping down around the cap upon removal.
If anyone needs a filter drain plug they are cheap: 15643-31050
But overall I agree.. our oil changes are very easy and clean compared to many other vehicles.
RET2
SILVER Star
3/8" ID works perfect
The Jowett housing with ez drain is mint compared to factory housing. I do agree though ez drain or futomo valve on the oil pan is overkill. I too prefer to KISS on the oil pan and just use plug and new crush washer every time. Helps I have a large oil drain pan to handle the initial flow.
