Oil & Filter Change for LC200 (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So someone that doesn't otherwise need skids should get them because oil changes are a little easier?

Edit: Stock skid comes off in about a minute and a half with a cordless impact.
 
If you install the Jowatt filter housing and 2 ez valves then it is a breeze. An ez valve for the main drain and a 2nd ez valve for the Jowatt housing. The tools are: 3/8 fuel line (12"); 2.x" socket for the Jowatt housing; oil pan; oil funnel.

i would definitely do those upgrades but since maintenance for 2 years is included in the new car purchase, I’ll have to do that post 2nd maintenance service. Reason I ask now is because I’d like to do an interim oil change after the break in period...~800-1000 mile mark.
 
Why list tools needed for parts the guy doesn't have? Even then they have to remove the skid.

Without those parts it's a breeze, and to my knowledge there is no difference in late-model landcruiser/LX vs early.

10&12mm for removing the skids, 14mm for pan drain, 3/8" square for oil filter housing drain plug, good toyota-specific filter housing wrench with the slots on the sides, not just the 14-(or whatever) sided hex, torque wrench capable of 9 ft-lb up to 30.

Don't forget to get pan drain gaskets, and when you use the filter housing drain spout put the drain plug oring into its groove on the spout before firmly pressing it into the filter housing. When done this way you won't spill much if any at all.

great - thanks!
 
The issue several have encountered was the dealer techs don't know how to open and securely close these types of valves and have screwed them up.
 
The issue several have encountered was the dealer techs don't know how to open and securely close these types of valves and have screwed them up.

what valves?

They should be well aware of the stock 3UR process since it is so often used on other more common toyotas.
 
So someone that doesn't otherwise need skids should get them because oil changes are a little easier?

Edit: Stock skid comes off in about a minute and a half with a cordless impact.
yup... seems like a logical expense for making oil changes easier :hillbilly:
 
what valves?

They should be well aware of the stock 3UR process since it is so often used on other more common toyotas.
I was referring to the Fumoto or Ez Drain variants. This thread has wandered into that realm?
 
I have full skid plates and do not remove them for oil changes.

The main engine oil drain I can get to with the EZ drain valve and a hose.
The Front filter I installed an inspection plate and remove the inspection plate, drain the oil with the ez valve and hose, then change the filter.
 
Necro. Does the oil filter come with the new O-Ring? Wish there were more part numbers in the original post
 
Necro. Does the oil filter come with the new O-Ring? Wish there were more part numbers in the original post
New filter comes with the main housing cap oring, the drain cap oring, and the disposable drain tool. Make sure you get oil drain plug gaskets.
 
Don’t need to replace the drain plug gasket if you‘ve installed the fumoto.:p
 
Last edited:
Don’t need to replace the drain plug gasket if you‘ve installed the fumoto.:p
Does the fumoto come with the appropriate gasket? I’ve got one coming today or tomorrow, and am slightly overdue for an oil change. Do I need to pick up a gasket for the initial install of the valve?
 
Does the fumoto come with the appropriate gasket? I’ve got one coming today or tomorrow, and am slightly overdue for an oil change. Do I need to pick up a gasket for the initial install of the valve?


It includes a built in o-ring .. you do not need anything else.
 
Does the fumoto come with the appropriate gasket? I’ve got one coming today or tomorrow, and am slightly overdue for an oil change. Do I need to pick up a gasket for the initial install of the valve?
It comes with washer like gasket.
 
Stupid question alert, What torque wrench are y’all using -looks like the filter housing needs to be tightened to 18lbs but all of the 1/2” wrenches I find are from either 20-150lbs or 50-250 lbs. Thank in advance.
 
Stupid question alert, What torque wrench are y’all using -looks like the filter housing needs to be tightened to 18lbs but all of the 1/2” wrenches I find are from either 20-150lbs or 50-250 lbs. Thank in advance.

Get a 3/8" torque wrench.

HTH
 
Stupid question alert, What torque wrench are y’all using -looks like the filter housing needs to be tightened to 18lbs but all of the 1/2” wrenches I find are from either 20-150lbs or 50-250 lbs. Thank in advance.
Do it by feel. Don’t worry about it.
 
"by feel" is how many of the original plastic filter covers got stuck to the point of breaking when being opened the next time. Also the spec of 30ft-lb on the oil drain plug always "feels" too tight to me, but that's the spec and I haven't had any problems when I set it there.

@Fj60+ gaijin was correct on suggesting a 3/8" model. You'll have trouble finding one that goes low enough for oil filter changes (9 for the filter cap plug, 18 for the cap, 30 for the oil pan drain plug), and high enough for lug nuts (97), basically requiring two. I have a Neiko Pro 03707B 3/8" 15-80 that I use for a lot of average jobs, and a 50-250 for big suspension stuff and lug nuts. For some reason amazon isn't listing that specific 15-80 anymore, just the large and smaller sizes.. maybe out of stock. Others are available though.

Strictly speaking having an in-lb wrench also doesn't hurt.. mine was about $40 and is used regularly for the filter cap plug and my KDSS screws.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom