Oh, so that’s my electrical issue (Now a no start issue) (1 Viewer)

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Harpers Ferry, WV
I’ve been fighting some electrical issues since I bought my FJ62. Been chasing my tail trying to run down one issues after another and to top it off it all the problems were intermittent. I’d think I fixed something, then it would return next time I drive the cruiserWell today I think I found the route of those issues.

The connectors were basically fused together with corrosion. Pulling it apart, was probably harder than pulling teeth, took me a better part of two hours or messing with that connector and the rest of the rear harness. Plus the wires were so frayed from corrosion they were just falling out. A couple of the pins got transferred from one connector to the other when they finally separated. I guess I’ll be sourcing some new harnesses now. Was not expecting to take this off the road today lol.

I suspect my FJ62 was in accident involving it getting hit in the rear quarter panel. Although this didn’t pop on the carfax when I bought the truck, go figure. I’m guessing this accident and maybe careless rust repair caused the abrasion on the wires. That plus extra speed holes from sloppy body work allowed way more water than normal into my rear quarter panel and increased the rate of corrosion. Seemed like this connector was laying on the bottom of the quarter panel. Some of my wire harness securing hooks are MIA, again from bodywork.


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Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Messages
236
Location
Harpers Ferry, WV
Oh yeah, here’s why I was originally messing with the harness and connector. PO’s beautiful fuel gauge and pump wiring connection.

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Side note. All the rust is getting treated with Ospho and painted. Already started cleaning and prepping everything.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Harpers Ferry, WV
GOOD GOD MAN!

Beyond that, I have no words. And it takes a lot to shut me up...
Yeah, I mean I'm glad I know what the issue is now, but I really wish it wasn't something like this.

I don't know if anyone can confirm this but I think I need these two harnesses:
Wire, Floor, (No. 1) P/N 82161-90A40
Wire, FLoor, No. 2 P/N 82162-90A34

Been using this site for the wiring harness numbers and cross referencing with CruiserParts.

I have a buddy locally lost his main gig to the shut down and now parts up 60's series full time. I'll try to go through him first for parts, but if he doesn't have it, it looks like Cruiser Parts does and not as expensive as I thought it was going to be.


Does any one know the P/N for the wiring harness going to the fuel pump and fuel sender?
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Messages
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Harpers Ferry, WV
Well my buddy let me go through and pull the harnesses I needed off a parts rig. Was actually able to pull the harnesses from rear hatch as well since mine were cut and poorly repaired in the same manor as before.

Funny enough the parts rig had the connector for the fuel send and pump cut and was connected with crimp on bullet connectors. I went through and cleaned all the harnesses with soap and water and unhung them up to dry. I then went through and made any repairs need. I used new nylon connectors for the fuel sender and pump connection. There was an abrasion wear on part of Floor harness 1.

I went through the quarter panels and washed them out, sprayed them with ospho and hit them with some rust-oleum rust reformer and installed a little bit of Noico sound deadening (need to order more).

While doing all this I pulled the D pillar vents and ducting and was messing with rerouting the harness that runs from the Floor harness 1 to rear hatch and light, notice it felt a bit thiccc. And having running into this before with my cruiser I knew it only meant one thing.

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The finest body shop electrical work.....

And of course this was the only harness I didn't pull from the parts rig. So I went back yesterday to grab it.

I've got more pics on my phone. That I plan on posting once I get them uploaded so standby for that. This repairs has kinda blown up into me tackling a bunch of issues. Having ADD and being OCD about fixing every known issues is terrible. I'm so glad I can't fit my cruiser in my garage, otherwise I'm sure it would be in pieces right now.
 
Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Messages
236
Location
Harpers Ferry, WV
Drying the harnesses after washing
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Here's the new connectors I used for the fuel pump and sender harness, coated in a bit of dielectric grease.
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And ended up having to drop the gas tank a bit in order to run the harness for the pump and sender.
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Was fun time putting it back together when I found out the strap bolts were boogered up pretty bad
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Joined
Feb 5, 2020
Messages
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Location
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You might as well invest in a tap & die set. Better get a set of easy-outs too.
Yeah, I need some for metric stuff, but I just picked up some 10.9 grade bolts and made a little thread chaser with the angle grinder. Worked out will, luckily just the bolts were mangled to s*** and the captured nuts weren't.

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Joined
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Messages
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Harpers Ferry, WV
Updates:

Got all the wiring harnesses replaced including the ones in the rear hatch. They were previously cut, I assume by a body shop to remove and paint the rear hatches. My buddy was nice enough to let me pull them from one of his parts rigs. I also cleaned and painted the spare tire carrier since I had it out for lowering the tank a bit. Also, pulled the trailer hitch mount and rear bumper to clean and paint the inside of that and wire wheel and paint the frame. Kinda, knocking out a bunch of projects while waiting on parts.

Gaskets for the fuel filler neck finally came in. So yesterday I buttoned everything up and went to start her up. No, dice!

I tested power to the fuel pump and that’s good, also jumped it at the diagnostic port and heard it turn on and disconnected the hose at the fuel filter and have fuel getting there. So I know the pump is good. However, with the fuel line disconnected what should the flow rate for the pump be? Seems like I wasn’t getting a whole lot of pressure from the pump, so many draining the tank clogged the sock or something.


Went ahead and tried to cover the other basics before posting here. I can her the circuit open relay clicking, so that’s good sign it’s okay. Yesterday I could get the engine to fire off on a cylinder or two when I sprayed starting fluid into the intake manifold.

I’m getting a engine light with the key in the run position so that’s concerning a bit. I tried to jumped TE1 to E1 and read codes but got nothing... that being said, I might have the LED bulb in the wrong polarity for that light lol. Guess I’m pulling the dash to rule that out.

All that being said, I really didn’t mess with anything in the engine bay or upfront. The only things that were touched that have anything to do with the engine running would be power to the pump and the fuel tank it’s self.

Yes I know lots of variables, lots of changes, random somewhat maybe “logical” troubleshooting, but hey typical cruiser stuff right?
 
Joined
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Messages
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Harpers Ferry, WV
Well idk what fixed it. I pulled the tank completely out and the pump. Sock looked clean. Pump looked fine. Blew air in the lines to and from the engine bay. Threw everything back together. Disconnected the filter and jumped the pump from the diagnostic port and got fuel. Then disconnected the line at the cold start injector and had fuel there. Buttoned everything back up and she started, go figure.
 

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