Yeah - but your "street-cred" just went up!
Official 200 Series Chat and BS Thread
- Thread starter MScruiser
- Start date
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360 degree video of @RET2 and I doing a water crossing at Afton Canyon (west side of Mojave Rd). We were told it was about 30".
If you watch on your computer or phone you should be able to spin the video around. I'm in front of RET2 and a Ricoh Theta S is mounted on the roof (crap camera IMO), check out the bow wake to the side or spin back to see how high it was on Ralph's hood.
If you watch on your computer or phone you should be able to spin the video around. I'm in front of RET2 and a Ricoh Theta S is mounted on the roof (crap camera IMO), check out the bow wake to the side or spin back to see how high it was on Ralph's hood.
RET2
SILVER Star
Thanks Zach !!
For those complaining about the heat wave earlier....
The car temp senseor was showing way over 100° ambient temps as well.
The car temp senseor was showing way over 100° ambient temps as well.
LC #1 baby! - found this These Are the 10 New Cars and Trucks Owners Keep the Longest
Found this 10% deal while browsing: JustDifferentials.com
That's cool AF - I've never seen a 360 deg video on my laptop before. I've seen those 360 deg photos on FaceBook, but this is way better!!
scroll to the bottom - anyone running these? I assume the OEM's are stronger. I have both of my diff covers being removed soon so I wanted some feedback on these because I might just give the 9.5 for the rear a shot or not
Toyota 9.5" Land Cruiser Semi Float Nitro Xtreme Aluminum Diff Cover
Toyota 9.5" Land Cruiser Semi Float Nitro Xtreme Aluminum Diff Cover
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
You mean on a 40 Series?
is that what that's for?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Yeah.
We have 3rd member design axles. We can remove our 3rd members, do all the diff work on a bench, and reinstall in the housing.
That old LC design is like Dana type axles, you remove the diff cover and do all your work on the axle housing itself.
Also, the 200 9.5 is a super strong housing, stronger than a Toyota 10.5 or tundra 9.5 which are just hydro formed, making the metal thin at the differential area. Our 200s are the same thickness all the way through.
Our front differentials are clamshell. There really isn't a differential cover per say, but two halfs that contain everything.
Hope that makes since
Edit: what do you mean by both your differential covers removed soon?
That's good to know - thanks for explaining it. I'm having gears installed soon is what I was saying in so many words...got a quote today for the install "s*** aint cheap".
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Who'd you go with? I really prefer East Coast Gear Supply. If you are going air lockers, those guys understand the therory behind how to route the airline on a Toyota 3rd and not run the bulkhead line into the case every time you go from coast to drive.
Just remember to not exchange your rear land cruiser 200 3rd for a tundra 9.5. They won't work.
I went with the Nitro gear kit that JT's sells and a front air locker to match the existing rear. I don't believe there will be any exchanging of 3rd members going on, just installing new internals. thanks for the words of caution though. If I owned a chopper I'd fly down nab you up and have you put on a clinic for me so I could learn something other than writing a check.
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Haha, well, Appalachian Toyota Roundup and Overland Expo East. Be there! Or umm....you know, whatever works for your schedule.
Uhhh... I'm gonna have to disagree with this. Not true.
ALL Land Cruisers have removable 3rd members in the rear axle. ALL solid axle fronts are also removable (and can be swapped!), but there are no C-clips since it is technically a FF axle design. Not sure you can even rebuild a rear diff with it still in the housing but the cover off. I guess you could, but it seems like the hard way. I know for an absolute fact that up through the 80-series SF rear axle (non-elocker axles), there is a removable rear cover, so you can access the C-clips in the diff that have to be removed. You drain the oil, pull the cover, then there is a bolt that you remove, so you can slide the spider gears pin out. You push in on the axles, the C-clips fall out (or you snag them with a magnet), then you slide the axles out, unbolt the diff, out it comes to the bench for working on it. I've done it MANY times.
Hell, I swapped a diff out on the trail once under an FJ40 being held up with 2 HiLifts (that day sucked) when the pinion snapped.
I did help a guy once install a LockRite in an FJ60 with the diff still in the truck, and we both agreed that it was harder that way.
I haven't spent any time with the 100 and 200 series rear axle (yet), no idea what holds the axles in, but I'm wondering if they work basically like the original mini-truck SF axle, with snap-rings out by the wheel bearings? Would like to know, since I noticed there is no removable rear cover anymore.
Markuson
SILVER Star
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
I'm sorry, I didn't set my comment up right at all. I know I mentioned 40 series earlier, but when I saw the "1955", for some reason I was thinking the old BJ series axles (like the 1st land cruiser 1951-1955 copy from SB axles), not 1960-1984 40 series axles.
Funny enough, once the BJ series was all set and done, it ended up having axles that would later create the 20/30/40/55 series axle that we know today. My senior thesis in college was the evolution of the 4 wheel drive, and the land cruiser had a big part in that. Sometimes having too much information in your head makes it to where you over think things sometimes.
I was all of the place on that one, thanks for the catch, it was a confusing comment since "old" means different things to different people.
For your question on our 200 rear diffs. The axles are held in by an axle bearing assembly/seals/retaining ring component that is pressed on the axle shaft and a little c-clip for added security. I've used nothing less than a 40 ton press to get the bearings off and on. That assembly is bolted to the housing with 4 bolts. It makes it really nice to pull shafts for diff swaps, as you only have to disconnect the brake lines, and unbolt the the 4 bolts to the housing. Hub, bearing assembly, and shafts come out all together. Another fun bonus is the 200 is the first LC to have a centered diff. So left and right shaft are the same length. Even the 100 series was a centered pinion, so different shaft lengths left and right.
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OK, thanks for the clarification. Makes sense now. As a card-carrying academic, I would actually like to read that thesis!
Sooo... yeah the 200 sounds pretty much like the mini-truck/Tacoma system, a bearing in a carrier that is pressed on to the axle shaft, with a snap ring as a backup. Next time you're at BudBuilt, ask him to show you the bearing puller jig I made for him!
Sooo... yeah the 200 sounds pretty much like the mini-truck/Tacoma system, a bearing in a carrier that is pressed on to the axle shaft, with a snap ring as a backup. Next time you're at BudBuilt, ask him to show you the bearing puller jig I made for him!
