OEM FIPG question

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Toyota Black Form in Place Gasket is said to be for engines, where as the Orange is axles and TC's and such...

Question:

Is Black okay for "Contact with Coolant"? Like what would be the case with a thermostat replacement?

I searched FAQ and didn't see the word "thermostat" in any of the links and word searched to no avail
but I might have been coming at it from the wrong angle.
 
Seal Packing 1282B, Three Bond 1282B or equivalent FIPG is the one you want for coolant.

I believe the part number is 08826-00100, but would recommend you verify.
 
Seal Packing 1282B, Three Bond 1282B or equivalent FIPG is the one you want for coolant.

I believe the part number is 08826-00100, but would recommend you verify.
That is verified :)

Edit: Got some inbound from Serra Toyota - Not cheap...$70 a tube.
But as is often the case...first application of OEM lasted 25 years, sooooo....$
 
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Do not use 1282B FIPG on any gasket or O-ring.
Use a new thermostat gasket (O-ring), any time removed.
Thermostat FSM 002.jpg

Toyota 1282B FIPG is only specified for the water inlet housing to water pump only.

001.JPG

I do use 1282B when creating a patch on block and a few other places. When doing so, I let cure for ~24 hours before assembly.
 
That is verified :)

Edit: Got some inbound from Serra Toyota - Not cheap...$70 a tube.
But as is often the case...first application of OEM lasted 25 years, sooooo....$
Just a heads up, every order I’ve placed with Serra took like 3-5 weeks to deliver. It’s because they’re always swamped with all the orders they get from running those 20-25% off sales. If you need this stuff soon I recommend just going to your local dealership and picking it up. They always have the black FIPG in stock (at least around here).
 
Do not use 1282B FIPG on any gasket or O-ring.
Use a new thermostat gasket (O-ring), any time removed.
View attachment 3681913
Toyota 1282B FIPG is only specified for the water inlet housing to water pump only.

View attachment 3681914
I do use 1282B when creating a patch on block and a few other places. When doing so, I let cure for ~24 hours before assembly.

Yup

Got the rubber o-ring when ordering the t-stat.
 
Just a heads up, every order I’ve placed with Serra took like 3-5 weeks to deliver. It’s because they’re always swamped with all the orders they get from running those 20-25% off sales. If you need this stuff soon I recommend just going to your local dealership and picking it up. They always have the black FIPG in stock (at least around here).
Ordered Friday
Confirmed Monday
Shipped today (Tuesday)

Maybe it's just on bigger stuff? or stuff they don't have on hand?
 
Yeah, If I need stuff right away from Serra. I just email them I do. It gets out that day, if in inventor and packed very well.
 
Do not use 1282B FIPG on any gasket or O-ring.
Use a new thermostat gasket (O-ring), any time removed.
View attachment 3681913
Toyota 1282B FIPG is only specified for the water inlet housing to water pump only.

View attachment 3681914
I do use 1282B when creating a patch on block and a few other places. When doing so, I let cure for ~24 hours before assembly.


I went back over your post. Do I understand correctly that you advise NOT to use any 1282B on the two parts that represent the thermostat housing?
(The outside half of the housing that the upper radiator hose attaches to and the inner half of the housing that holds the t-stat in place aka water inlet housing)

I guess I'm just wondering because that's where coolant is lightly leaking from and forming a pink crust directly along that seam...
Electrolysis pitting?


IMG_0601.webp
 
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Per the FSM no FIPG is applied there. The thermostat within the mated pair has a gasket on it that seals correctly. If the exterior portion of the thermostat housing is pitted you can replace that. The other half (I believe) can be replaced during a timing belt R&R.

Given the pink crusties on the hose as well it might be a good time to replace that one as well.
 
Per the FSM no FIPG is applied there. The thermostat within the mated pair has a gasket on it that seals correctly. If the exterior portion of the thermostat housing is pitted you can replace that. The other half (I believe) can be replaced during a timing belt R&R.

Given the pink crusties on the hose as well it might be a good time to replace that one as well.
I'm also wondering if perhaps the t-stat got stuck closed temporarily and that cause a heat increase I didn't notice that overpressurized the system and that generated the conditions necessary for it to leak in those areas.
 
I went back over your post. Do I understand correctly that you advise NOT to use any 1282B on the two parts that represent the thermostat housing?
(The outside half of the housing that the upper radiator hose attaches to and the inner half of the housing that holds the t-stat in place aka water inlet housing)

I guess I'm just wondering because that's where coolant is lightly leaking from and forming a pink crust directly along that seam...
Electrolysis pitting?


View attachment 3687198
That is correct, do not use FIPG between thermostat housing (water inlet) and cap (water inlet cap) that lower hose attaches to. Use a new Toyota OEM gasket. This gasket, has a groove that thermostat fits in, wrapping around the thermostat. The thermostat with gasket, will try to slip out of position as you place cap on. I use a feeler gauge (thin strip of metal) to temporarily hold thermostat with gasket in place in the water inlet, as I place cap and then nuts on. Sung nuts down evenly work in a cross pattern, with a final torque of 14ft-lbf.

Tip: Make sure the groove in water inlet housing for thermostat is clean a free of pits, and the face of water inlet housing and cap are clean. Do not over torque, we're not plumbers!
Note: If radiator cap and reservoir not functioning properly. Say cap sticking closed or releasing above it specified pressure. This will overprizes the coolant system, result in leaks.

Thermostat FSM 002.jpg

The picture is a old & damaged thermostat, that gasket is still on.
IMG_7907.JPEG

Here's a new thermostat and gasket, in water inlet, befor cap installed.
Thremostat (5).JPG
 
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That is correct, do not use FIPG between thermostat housing (water inlet) and cap (water inlet cap) that lower hose attaches to. Use a new Toyota OEM gasket. This gasket, has a groove that thermostat fits in, wrapping around the thermostat. The thermostat with gasket, will try to slip out of position as you place cap on. I use a feeler gauge (thin strip of metal) to temporarily hold thermostat with gasket in place in the water inlet, as I place cap and then nuts on. Sung nuts down evenly work in a cross pattern, with a final torque of 14ft-lbf.

Tip: Make sure the groove in water inlet housing for thermostat is clean a free of pits, and the face of water inlet housing and cap are clean. Do not over torque, we're not plumbers!
Note: If radiator cap and reservoir not functioning properly. Say cap sticking closed or releasing above it specified pressure. This will overprizes the coolant system, result in leaks.

View attachment 3687371
The picture is a old & damaged thermostat, that gasket is still on.
View attachment 3687385
Here's a new thermostat and gasket, in water inlet, befor cap installed.
View attachment 3687372
Ahhh...
I see. the picture of how the inner rubber t-stat gasket seats helps a lot. Thanks!
 
Do not use 1282B FIPG on any gasket or O-ring.
Use a new thermostat gasket (O-ring), any time removed.
View attachment 3681913
Toyota 1282B FIPG is only specified for the water inlet housing to water pump only.

View attachment 3681914
I do use 1282B when creating a patch on block and a few other places. When doing so, I let cure for ~24 hours before assembly.

@2001LC what is the cure time for the 1282B seal packing when replacing the water inlet housing? Still 24-hrs?
 
No! Somewhere it's written "do not add coolant until 20 minutes have past. Notice also, FSM states, you have 5 minutes from time you apply to assembly (torque).

I get all parts and tools prepped and ready. I can get torqued in to 13ft-lbe, ~4 minutes after opening tube.

BTW: It doesn't cure in 20 min. That may take weeks.
 
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No! Somewhere it's written "do not add coolant until 20 minutes have past. Notice also, FSM states, you have 5 minutes from time you apply to assembly (torque).

I get all parts and tools prepped and ready. I can get torqued in to 13ft-lbe, ~4 minutes after opening tube.

BTW: It doesn't cure in 20 min. That may take weeks.
Thanks for the clarification. I’m not sure why I had 24hrs in my mind.
 
If you polish the t-stat housing groove with a little 400 grit, it is sized perfectly for a Buna-N o-ring, 2-034. You could also use a Viton o-ring, same size. It stays put in the groove with a light smear of silicone grease. 10 months and 7k miles later, still no leaks.
tstat_o-ring.webp
 
Thanks for the clarification. I’m not sure why I had 24hrs in my mind.
Maybe, because I say overnight (24 hr's) when using FIPG 1282B as a bandaid. Like on the block pits, where water pump sits.

The FIPG doesn't actual cure for weeks, maybe months. I say this. because, when I'm done with a job. I pull off applicator straw and set aside until next time I need. I clean straw just before next use. If it's only been a week or so, it's still wet in the center.
 
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This is because these types of sealants need humidity and 75 plus degrees to cure in its time curve. It’s not quick but it lasts for ever.
 

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