Nut & Bolt Frame-Off 1978 FJ40 Restoration

[MScruiser]

Yes, @dnp . They are silver cad, followed by a secondary plating of yellow chromate.

 

[under_psi]

@MScruiser how much for a steering wheel resto?

 

[MScruiser]

Oh man; I have no idea. It was a huge PITA. I tell you what; I'll give you all the advice and pointers you'll need when you get yours going.

 

[Trollhole]

All the pedals I've ever seen were yellow cad. Or yellow chromate over cad. I have to say you would have been better to go with a tri yellow zinc than the cad you did. Even all the old NOS toyota nuts and bolts match it way better than Hex yellow Zinc or cad. Yours looks really close to Hex Yellow Zinc. Gives a dull finish. The corrosion protection is the same from Tri Yellow Zinc and Hex Yellow Zinc. Blasting should have nothing to do with how shiny the parts turn out.

This is Tri Yellow Zinc. Almost a dead ringer for the Cadmium plating Mr T used back in the day.

 

[MScruiser]

That looks good.

 

[MScruiser]

So after I polished the steering shaft, I realized it'd be susceptible to rust. I whipped out my DIY zinc electroplating apparatus and zinc coated the section of the shaft that will not get powdercoated.

Then I sent off the shaft to be PC'd, along with the roll bar, steering linkage/shafts, bumper gussets, and side step gussets. Should be ready tomorrow. STILL WAITNING ON MY BOLTS FROM THE PLATERS so I can start assembling any of this crap yet.

Also began cleaning/repairing the rear wiring harness. Lots of PO handiwork, including splices, speaker wire, etc. I am also rewrapprong the rear harness in plastic sheeting (making it better than original).

 

[wngrog]

Are you just splicing in simple color wires or are you staying with OEM colors?

 

[MScruiser]

I have not come across anything that had to be completely replaced. I've been able to cut of the bad sections where the splice was (~1cm), do a lineman's knot, solder the knot, cover in marine heat shrink, then wrap in Super 33, filled by plastic sheeting/casing, followed by more Super 33.

 

[wngrog]

Awesome.

I've got to figure out the best way to fix my burned sections.

I'm thinking just regular colored wire since it's not all the way to the end just middle pieces.

 

[MScruiser]

If its going to be covered up, and its the correct gauge, I don't see why you should worry about it.

 

[MScruiser]

Spent yesterday and today redoing the rear electrical harness. It was in surprisingly in good shape beneath the overspray, mud, bedliner, and dry rotted electrical tape.

 

[MScruiser]

Parts came back from the powdercoater. Reassembled the steering wheel and shaft.

 

[MScruiser]

Roll bar is back from PC'ing.

 

[BMThiker]

I think Andrew needs to add this to his new blasting/PC'ing business plan

 

[wngrog]

Where you get that harness wrap? I need a bit.

 

[BMThiker]

I know it wouldn't look stock but the braided harness wrap is better stuff. It doesn't hold dust/debris like that plastic stuff does and it's easier to handle.

 

[MScruiser]

I know it wouldn't look stock but the braided harness wrap is better stuff.
View attachment 1314107

Yeah, it does look nice, but as you said, it doesn't look anything like OE. Dust and debris shouldn't be a problem with the plastic stuff, because it has an outer wrap of Super 33, just like my OE harness on my 200.

 

[ntsaint]

Would highly recommend testing everything out before perm install...it sucks to undo all that work looking for a problem after it's all put together. Ask me how i know....

 

[MScruiser]

Where you get that harness wrap? I need a bit.

Harbor Freight. About $3 for 15'

 

[BMThiker]

Stopped by ACC tonight and they are using this stuff. It heat shrinks too.