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- #221
Still moving slowly... got these bits back from ceramic
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Where did you buy your Gen 2 distrutorless head? I’ve been looking high and low. ThanksNot sure what you have so i can't say for certain however, the crank is just a 2 wire vr sensor and is easy to wire you should have gotten a wiring diagram with your ecu but it is available on their website this page is very helpful in explaining your sensors and wiring Haltech link I am running a gen 2 1fz head so it doesnt have a distributor, I am running sequential cop ignition. Tps is a simple avi input on the ecu. you have 5v reference pin 4, signal pin 3 and a sensor ground pin 1. You will need your specific toyota ecu wiring diagram so you can match up the wiring. Haltech's website and forum are very helpful if you need.
I posted the correct partnumber in your thread, I got it from partsouq.com last year.Where did you buy your Gen 2 distrutorless head? I’ve been looking high and low. Thanks
Sorry. K Thanks.I posted the correct partnumber in your thread, I got it from partsouq.com last year.
Thanks! there isn't much electrically in that area and if there is the connectors are all weather pack so water can't get inside, however i do live in the wet/snowy pacific north west so i will be making some inserts so i can block off the holes when necessary. i had previously wanted to do a snorkel to aid in cooler intake air so i left the duct but now that i think about it the stock duct is probably too small, so yeah that's a great idea i'll yank that thing.Looks cool. I don't see any connectors in that area so rain is a non-issue? While you're waiting you could pull the passenger fender and get the old air duct out.
I totally forgot about that thing haha! but yeah it for sure has the same theme from that supra kit which is pretty cool!The vents remind me of the TRD 3000GT body for the JZA80.
thanks! i just put a 3/8" spacer taped to a sharpie and traced out the holes following the pattern inside the hood, put blue painters tape on the exterior of the hood to protect the paint, then i drilled like 3 or 4 holes from the inside on the radius's following the pattern i traced, then on the exterior of the hood on the tape i traced out the radius's via the holes drilled then connected straight sides with sharpie and cut from the outside with a hand held jig saw with a fine tooth metal blade, it worked very well. i left a bit of meat on all the areas so i could go back and smooth out the edges with a sanding drum on a dremel.Ooh I dig those vents. My under hood temps are ridiculous with the turbo and I’ve been looking at a scoop, but I really like the low key look you have going.
Thanks man! I also forgot to post it but I got the bowfin cruisers rack assembled finally. It was sitting in a box for several months and I finally decided to pull it out and throw it on. It's real nice. I also got some dei heat reflecting tape I will be installing on the under side of the rest of the hood as there won't be a hood insulation pad anymore. Still on the hunt for some clips I can use to secure the mesh to the hood as well.This thing keeps gettin sicker….
I used the dei gold tape before on my turbo sc300 and it worked well without coming apart. The silver and gold tape from dei is made of fiberglass and aluminized foil, its rated to 2000f radiant and 400 direct heat i have no doubt it will work well on the hood. I also am really really happy with how the vents turned out and their location directly above the hot parts turbo/downpipe and wastegate. The front most opening is also basically over the cooling fan so I have no doubt these holes will be allowing the bay to vent well.I'm curious about the under hood temp mitigation; is it better to go with those sticky back heat deflection matts or put the OEM hood backer back on? I took mine off when I had the louvers punched into the hood so I'm curious which would be more effective. I have yards of Rattle Trap sound deadening material but I don't think this is the correct application due to the fact that I recorded 200+ deg under hood temps when standing still I bet the black adhesive would simply melt.
Thanks.
I'd like to run it right at around 350-400 hp and I have the capability to program up to 7 levels of boost control i'll probably run 4 levels for simplicity sakes. This is long as the wastegate plumbing and gate can sufficiently bypass enough air around the turbine, this is particularly why I want the 1.01 housing cause the smaller the housing the less air it takes to spool and we are already on the small size for this engine. I can and might test between both housings as I already have both, its just dyno time cost and tuner time cost at this point. So we'll see what she does, I know i have plenty of fuel pump and injector for those numbers and the turbo has enough air for those numbers as well. Ideally the boost control will be spring pressure (7psi) at level 1 and go up from there. We will see what happens.So how much power are you looking to get?