Just finishing 100 build… now looking at an 80. Buy?

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T

trackmagic

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Just finishing build of my 100 (have a build thread separate). Absolutely love the rig, but it’s been in family since new and having a hard time wanting to bash it on some harder stuff, beat body, etc.

Considering getting an 80 for a dedicated trail rig. Came across this one and currently at 12.5k. Already triple locked ARB and a good starting point overall.

Eventually would like to 3 link front, put on 40’s, fab a cage, and have more of a crawler and rig I don’t have to worry about body and all that.


Am I insane? Much of a difference with nearly identical build now in my 100 as she sits?

I need someone with common sense. I don’t have any self control :)

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Want a trail beater? Get a Jeep.
Want trail cruiser? Stick with your 100.
Want the best of both worlds, THEN look for a 3xl 80 in the knowledge and acceptance of both what it will cost and what it will be in the end.
It's worth it.
But just this guy's opinion of course.
 
Nice 100 + dawgs!

BUT

In the USA, the 100 is not even the best of the IFS breed in an overpopulated IFS Toyota 4x4 world because there’s the 200. Imho, it’ll always be overshadowed by the 200.

While an LC is an LC, the 80 feels truly more vintage with whimsical NVH, chopstick A pillars, upright windshield, shallow dash, and no LCD panel to speak of in an iPhone touchscreen world.

It’s Toyota USA’s solid axles finale. Curtain call. The End of an era akin to Porsche 911’s rather abrupt air to water cooled transition in 1998. Dare I say it’s peak Land Cruiser straight outta the 90s when Japan was 💪🏼.

I’d personally dump the 100, get the cleanest factory locked 80 you can afford as a baseline to be worthy of tidying up where you’ll lose no money, then add a beater Jeep you can molest with aftermarket parts to enjoy.

Have fun whatever you decide!

My grocery getter

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I highly recommend picking up an 80 for a trail rig and keeping your 100 for other stuff. I've done similar with my 200 and an 80. Great combo.

Although the 200 (triple locked on 34s) is unstoppable, it also is large, has all kinds of electronic nannies, and is expensive if you damage it. The 80 is smaller, also goes anywhere, and is visceral.

In many ways it mirrors the difference in driving experience between an early 70's 911 and a modern 911. Both awesome, just different.

I only wish I'd started by keeping my 200 relatively stock and building an 80 from the get go. Oh well.
 
What you're looking to do with the 80 is definitely within the realm of possibility. If you're not afraid to trim body and frame a smidge and can weld, it's a great way to make a rig for the rocks. There's several here that are 3 linked and some of those on 40s. I regret not linking sooner into my build. That rig looks like a good starting point
 
joxeale said:
I'd skip on an 80 with a 3FE. Aim for 95-97 ideally but 93-94 should be fine too
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I would prefer a 1FZF too, but that rig is pretty built for the money. Installing f/r ARB air lockers and 5.29:1 gears alone would cost at least half of what they're asking. The high/low transfer case regear is $1000 in parts alone. If you're not intent on building one yourself, this seems like a reasonable deal. If you get sick of it not having a ton of power, toss a LS in it and you've got an even more beastly setup.
 
joxeale said:
I'd skip on an 80 with a 3FE. Aim for 95-97 ideally but 93-94 should be fine too
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The important points here are OBDII making it easy to deal with faults and fault codes and airbags, especially airbags if you're like me, walked away from an accident where they made a major contribution to me walking away from it in good shape.
 
You are not insane.

Disclaimer - debated 80 vs 100. Got a 100 because it was the logical choice, but still had the 80 itch...

I have owned my 100 for four years now. 33s, and F5s, AHC with king springs, sliders, roof rack. I was debating spending more money on it (bumpers, winch, AHC lift vs delete). I decided that as capable as the 100 is, the IFS/torsion bar setup will always hold it back no matter how much I spend. Still the best vehicle I have ever owned, don't want to sell it (was a 1 owner rust free, well maintained, lived in socal since new), and we have too many memories with it. Will likely be my permanent DD.

Recently purchased a pretty clean bone stock factory locked 80 that I plan to build but still doing an overly thorough/ocd baseline for now and enjoying it as a temporary DD.

I have only wheeled the 80 twice, but it's a night and day difference, mainly the front end articulation. Doesn't flinch in situations where the 100 would 3 wheel and trigger atrac. Lock it and it's shocking what it is capable of. Very different experience compared to the 100. But a part of me wants to keep it factory and enjoy, it's already plenty capable and too clean to wheel.

I say do it. Get an 80 that's semi built and seen some trail time (like the one you mentioned). You will save money and won't care about trail damage. Kinda wish I did that too.
 
AN470 said:
You are not insane.

I have only wheeled the 80 twice, but it's a night and day difference, mainly the front end articulation. Doesn't flinch in situations where the 100 would 3 wheel and trigger atrac. Lock it and it's shocking what it is capable of. Very different experience compared to the 100.

I say do it.
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Yup.
(as with any f/r axle lock) It's shockingly capable indeed.
Diff between a Rubi Jeep, apart from it's upfront cost, and a 3xl 80series is the electric control of the locks compared to the Rubi's electronic control.
Far more overlords of potential failure between getting out and getting home with the Rubi.
 
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CharlieS said:
I would prefer a 1FZF too, but that rig is pretty built for the money. Installing f/r ARB air lockers and 5.29:1 gears alone would cost at least half of what they're asking. The high/low transfer case regear is $1000 in parts alone. If you're not intent on building one yourself, this seems like a reasonable deal. If you get sick of it not having a ton of power, toss a LS in it and you've got an even more beastly setup.
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Ended up getting a good deal on this one. I figured with low mileage engine swap + recent major maintenance/belts, front/rear arb lockers + regear, heavy duty transmission and transfer case rebuild, full float rear axle and discs, onboard air that it was a good deal. Parts alone for that if I found a cleaner stock one would have been about as much as the truck let alone my weekends to get it all installed.


Now I can get to changing up a few things. Gonna trim and try to get at least 39x12.5s. Build some bumpers/front winch mount. Change out shocks for some fox’s with a bit longer down travel.

Then wheel her and see if I want to jump all in and go 3 link front.
 
If you have the extra cash, yeah go for it!

Could I have bought one all decked out like that? Probably, but the adventure wouldn't have been as fun and I would not have gotten to know the vehicle platform as well as I have so far.. just my small opinion.
 
DIRTBIKEUSA said:
If you have the extra cash, yeah go for it!

Could I have bought one all decked out like that? Probably, but the adventure wouldn't have been as fun and I would not have gotten to know the vehicle platform as well as I have so far.. just my small opinion.
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I agree with all of that. I just finished a build on my 100 series (well..finishing the diffs/lockers today now that I got my solid pinion spacers finally). I’m normally all about wrenching, but in this case I have a few trips this summer I wanted to have something more able to beat on then my 100 and between fishing season etc wouldn’t have much time to do a build back to back.

But. You are correct that the build is normally a large portion of the fun and the best way to learn every bolt and idiocracy of the vehicle.

Thanks for the reply 👍
 
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