Noob attempt to replace front rotors pads and bearings

[OwnerCS]

I hadn't though of using that, good idea. I once spent and hour on just one side. Found the cone washer and hub flange had been glued in.

These days I've a supper fast method. Kicks out even ones glued in cone washers fast.

Looks great. I actually have the set of brass/stainless/plastic hammer bits. Which brand of air hammer/chisel; are you using? I have a cheapie that doesn't have enough stroke to really vibrate the cones properly.

 

[2001LC]

Looks great. I actually have the set of brass/stainless/plastic hammer bits. Which brand of air hammer/chisel; are you using? I have a cheapie that doesn't have enough stroke to really vibrate the cones properly.

That was a small cheapo short barrel/stroke air hammer. Came in a $60 kit with ~40 pieces. I used in for rack and diff bushings also. As long as I oiled it, it worked okay. Any air hammer short or long stroke, should work.

The Chisel is a Mayhew 32064 Brass Hammer Tip. I've the set with aluminum and plastic tip, as well. There a a number of makers in the market of these various tips. Some replaceable tips! They're for things like aircraft rivet setting.

Today I use my Matco 2916 air hammer. With it I must be careful when popping bushing from aluminum, it's a beast. I just this month used it, on cone washer that were glues in. Did take ~3 more seconds, but did the job fast and easy.

A few years ago, on the Unicorn. I pounded off a set of cone washer stuck/glued in, by hand. Below is video of final minutes, after pound on, using P-oil and heat for day repeatedly. My brass dowel took a real beating. Brass did/does the job without damage to studs.

Cone washers and hub flange were glued on. After this one, I decided I needed a better solution for daily use. Brass dowel is fine. But can be energy draining and time consuming in tough cases. Hub flange was also a bear, as glued on. Once I realized someone had glued, I change approach other side. Treated hub flange like an oil pan FIPG in.


Today I used my brass dowel more for things like, knocking out wheel bearing races.

 

[TheForger]

I did this job and made a video of doing it.

Hope it helps someone.

That's a sweet timelapse, great job covering the process. Only bit of constructive criticism I have is you need a wider snap ring. After you put it on and grabbed the axle at the 14:28 mark it moved A LOT. This will quickly eat away at the groove that the snap ring sits in eventually destroying the end of that cv axle. There should be virtually no play when you do that.

 

[billyz]

working on this job in my garage following a video, I ended up scratching the inside of my hub trying to take the bearing races out. Are these scratches going to cause me trouble?

 

[GerLC100]

I'm not a pro, but I'd sand them flat to not have any bumps and proceed.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

They'll be covered by the race you put back in, so no issue. I'd get a brass drift so you don't cause that kind of damage to something that it does matter.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

What are people using for front rotors? OEM Toyota?

 

[GerLC100]

OEM for these vehicles is never a bad idea

I personally went with DBA rotors and pads. But that will also depend what you're doing with your LC: "day to day street use" is surely fine with OEM

 

[2001LC]

working on this job in my garage following a video, I ended up scratching the inside of my hub trying to take the bearing races out. Are these scratches going to cause me trouble?View attachment 3717222

I deburr with a dremel, so new race doesn't get hung up as you press in.

What are people using for front rotors? OEM Toyota?

Toyota for stock, or DBA if a heavy taking on steep passes.

 

[ScotyDosentKnow]

OEM for these vehicles is never a bad idea

I personally went with DBA rotors and pads. But that will also depend what you're doing with your LC: "day to day street use" is surely fine with OEM

Toyota for stock, or DBA if a heavy taking on steep passes.

Im about to tackle this job, truck is a daily driver but also gets regular off road use. Im in Seattle so is goes over passes in WA, OR and ID often with yearly trips to UT, NV and CO. After our trip to CO and UT last year the rotors were warped, loaded down with some armor, 4 people and gear plus steep passes probably did them in.

Maybe the DBA would be the best option. I just dont want to have to do it again any time soon LOL

 

[2001LC]

Im about to tackle this job, truck is a daily driver but also gets regular off road use. Im in Seattle so is goes over passes in WA, OR and ID often with yearly trips to UT, NV and CO. After our trip to CO and UT last year the rotors were warped, loaded down with some armor, 4 people and gear plus steep passes probably did them in.

Maybe the DBA would be the best option. I just dont want to have to do it again any time soon LOL

To controlling down hill speed, do not use brakes.

If front rotors are "warped", and still have~30.50mm. Have them turned on an OTV brake lathe. Provided, wheel bearings are tight.

Brake rotors, machining / turning

I'm having issue with run-out! Typically I do not put a run out gauge on turned Rotors or new OEM. But decided to in this case, on just one to start with. Well ended up put run-out dial gauge on all. Procedure is to remove rotor and turn to new position on hub, if out of spec, or just wanting...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[billyz]

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[billyz]

Ok I’ve got another noob question on this job

I’m struggling with getting the new inner race back in the hub. I’ve tried using the older race
with a slit cut through it, as well as a driver kit. It just doesn’t get past the point where it’s flush. I got the outer race in pretty easily but this one is real pain. Any tips? Left in the freezer tonight and gonna try again in the morning . Every damn video I’ve seen they just give it a few taps on some wood on top and it goes right in

I deburr with a dremel, so new race doesn't get hung up as you press in.

Toyota for stock, or DBA if a heavy taking on steep passes.

Oh shoot is that what you meant by getting hung up? I tried to smooth out the scratches but maybe I’m not doing a good enough job

 

[2001LC]

If issue is one race as driving tool, not getting depth needed. Try using two races stacked, as driving tool.