What to replace and what to leave alone when doing front rotors/pads? (1 Viewer)

[smcg3]

I'm gearing up to baseline my 165k miles 02' LX470 that I purchased last month, and first on the list of things is replace pads/rotors, because there is a strong pulsing/vibration under medium (or heavy) braking, especially once the rotors are a bit hot. To me that suggests warped rotors. According to service records that came with the truck, in 2023 it had "Both Front Wheel Bearings repacked and wheel hub ends replaced" (I take this to mean that outer hub flanges were replaced, but bearings were simply repacked with grease). It also had the left front CV axle replaced in 2023. I did tie rod ends on both sides since purchase in July 2024 so that it would pass inspection.

I've been reading the brake-related threads and watching the youtube videos showing the steps, and it seems everyone has a different take on what should be replaced when disassembling everything. I'm looking for opinions from those who have done the job before what's worth "doing while you're in there" and what can be left alone. Obviously if I get into the job and see a worn item I plan to replace it, but assuming everything visually checks out, is anything worth replacing even if it's not obviously worn?

So far on my parts to buy list I have:
- front and rear rotors (OEM)
- front and rear pads (OEM)
- front and rear pad shims

I'm hoping clips, retainers, etc. are reusable - my LX470 was a Florida car until last year.

As for wheel bearings... if I am replacing the rotors, should I just bite the bullet and do the bearings? I found this post that has all of the parts listed, it just seems daunting all of the little pieces that need to be bought... kind of wondering if that's better practice than trying to extricate the old bearings from the old rotors and put them on the new ones, though.

Anything else I should consider doing while I'm in there? I'm kind of hoping to just do the disassembly once, so I'm inclined to just do everything that might need doing in the near future. Thoughts? TIA.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

I'd suggest buying the wheel bearing kits that Cruiser Outfitters has, they've got everything you need in one box. Then you can crack the hub open, visually inspect the bearings and races while you're doing the rotors, and decide if you need to replace or not. If not, put the parts on the shelf and use them later.

 

[Land Shark]

I'd suggest buying the wheel bearing kits that Cruiser Outfitters has, they've got everything you need in one box. Then you can crack the hub open, visually inspect the bearings and races while you're doing the rotors, and decide if you need to replace or not. If not, put the parts on the shelf and use them later.

Cheap insurance

 

[NE Snowman]

Get the kits(wheel bearing and shim) from cruiseroutfitters. Good to have on hand. Also check out the FDS(cv) splines and how they look. Do you feel play or a clunk yet?

There’s always the whole of what to do, with 192k on my 03. My next big thing would be uppers and lowers, which would also tilt me towards replacing my FDS and keeping the old ones to reboot for a spare. Most of those bushings are toast just by age.

 

[GerLC100]

I'd likely get a set of c clips for the flange when pulling out the CV (also Cruiserteq/ cruiseroutfitters) as well as a brass punch for the races.

Front Wheel Snap Ring Kit - Fits 1998-2007 IFS UZJ100/LX470

Toyota Land Cruiser Front Wheel Bearing Kits

cruiserteq.com

 

[GerLC100]

ahh, and while you're in there check your grease caps. perhaps well invested cheap money.

 

[Bisho]

ahh, and while you're in there check your grease caps. perhaps well invested cheap money.

The last set of new grease caps I got from Partsouq I ended up throwing away. They were so tight I couldn't get them on, and had to reuse the old ones.

 

[NE Snowman]

I picked grease caps up from cruiseroutfitters and didn’t have a problem, my buddy took care of installation while I got my state inspection. He said the kits made it a super easy job.

 

[smcg3]

I'd likely get a set of c clips for the flange when pulling out the CV (also Cruiserteq/ cruiseroutfitters) as well as a brass punch for the races.

Front Wheel Snap Ring Kit - Fits 1998-2007 IFS UZJ100/LX470

Toyota Land Cruiser Front Wheel Bearing Kits

cruiserteq.com

I've kept reading up on this job and I see why these are necessary - looks like which thickness C-clip is necessary depends on how far "down" the 54mm nuts go when you torque them correctly.

re: the races - if I don't have a press, am I going to be unable to install a new bearing race? That part wasn't clear, since ChowCares copped out in the video he made about the job and just left the old race in there.

 

[Zuberg]

I've kept reading up on this job and I see why these are necessary - looks like which thickness C-clip is necessary depends on how far "down" the 54mm nuts go when you torque them correctly.

re: the races - if I don't have a press, am I going to be unable to install a new bearing race? That part wasn't clear, since ChowCares copped out in the video he made about the job and just left the old race in there.

The c clip shouldn't be impacted by 54 mm bearing nuts. The 54mm nuts provide pre-load on the hub bearings which ride the spindle. The 2nd nut locks in the star washer (with tabs folded) and the first 54mm nut.

The c clips ensure a properly installed front drive axle. If the c clip is too small, it allows side to side play in the drive flange and back of the knuckle. Different c clips allow you to obtain proper tolerance between the end of the drive axle and the flange. Too much play results in excessive wear to flange, drive axle and brass bushings.

Yes you can install races without a press. Use the old races to tap in the new races (cut slit in old races so they don't get stuck)

Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics

I know there are tons of threads already out discussing wheel bearings replacement, but this thread is more for my information and reference in the future. I also intend on doing some cleaning/inspecting of old parts so I needed a place to come back to and compare. This was somewhat of a rushed...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[dbleon]

I’ve found the aluminum seal and race driver kit to be well worth the cost. ~50$ from HF IIRC

 

[GerLC100]

re: the races - if I don't have a press, am I going to be unable to install a new bearing race? That part wasn't clear, since ChowCares copped out in the video he made about the job and just left the old race in there.

When I refreshed my lower control arms I couldn't get the ball joint in as it was always sliding/ tilting away. Drop it off at a shop, they pressed it in $30, good to go...
Or perhaps there's someone in your neighbor hood or a member of the forum close by who could help. Shouldn't be a big deal. Just watch out not to destroy the surfaces when you knock out the old ones. take your time.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

You don't need a press, a brass drift for the races and a loaner bearing tool from an auto parts store work fine.

 

[liveoak]

Let's say your bearings look good and you just need the minimum. In addition to your list, you will need the bearing hub seals
90311-70011 qty=2 so you can remove, clean, and repack bearings. You also may need the brake pad hardware kit which would depend on the year.
Of course you'll need wheel bearing grease, brake fluid, brake cleaner, a fish scale, 54mm socket, torque wrench, snap ring pliers.
You can only flatten and re-use the lock washer (90215-42025) a few times before it needs replacing.
You may also want to pack(inject) the needle bearings where the cv axle enters the hub while you have it apart. I use
"Mobilgrease CM-W, NLGI 1, 121086" for this.

Spindle Needle Bearing Replacement/Service Question

While working my project to refresh the 99 LX's front suspension with new ball joints, CV axles, tie-rod ends, I pulled the knuckle. The previous owner did a good job of replacing the wheel bearings and seals. The bearings were nice and smooth. From what I can tell, the CV axle and...

forum.ih8mud.com

Bearing Preload
tighten 1st adjusting nut to 43 ft lbs
spin hub several times each direction and loosen nut and finger tight
tighten 1st adjusting nut again to 38-57 in-lbs
spin hub several times each direction
measure preload with fish scale in direction of travel 9.5-15 lbs. increase torque and spin again to get within spec
install lock washer (don't bend yet) and 2nd nut tighten to 47 ft lbs
spin hub several times each direction
measure preload with fish scale in direction of travel 9.5-15 lbs
if not in spec go back to 1st adjusting nut and try again
once good, bend 2 tabs of lock washer forward and backwards

torques
flange with cone washers 24 ft lbs
calipers 91 ft lbs
rotor to hub (depending on year, place hub in rear of removed wheel to remove and torque) 54 ft lbs

 

[billyz]

On the third weekend of doing this job since I order tools or parts as I feel like after inspecting (first time working on my lc brakes) and it's my weekend vehicle so I can afford going slow, and sometimes I just get stuck lol

Important for getting races out (in case you want to put in new bearings) is a brass drift (this size is perfect Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XMSBBI?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title). Race driver kit on amazon was $30.

And a brass hammer to knock the annoying cone washers out. Those two things made it a lot easier that some videos didn't really address or skip.

Cruiserteq kit has everything you need in terms of replaceable parts and also a snap ring kit to get the right thickness snap ring.

 

[billyz]

BTW does anyone have experience with the shim kit from cruiserteq?

Caliper Hardware Kit - Fits 1/1998-2007 100/470 Front Applications (BR09807K)

Caliper Hardware Kit - Fits 1/1998-2007 100/470 Front Applications (BR09807K)

cruiserteq.com

Ordered the same OEM parts from my toyota dealer but it's twice the price