100 Series front calipers, bearings, rotors, brakes, and pads replaced

[Drewski]

Hi Everyone,

Need some help. I replaced my 100 series land cruiser's front calipers, rotors, brakes and inner / outer bearings. After completing the job my LC turns toward the passenger side when I am in reverse. There is no pull when driving forward. When I brake going forward there is a pull if the street has a slope to the drivers side. Other wise no pull of any sort while the vehicle is moving forward.

What the heck did I do wrong?

 

[excessive]

First, make sure your brakes are not dragging. Make sure you tightened everything to torque specs. make sure the pistons inside the caliper haven't seized up.
When doing a front bearing job, its recommended to set the pre-load on the bearing set using a fish scale, so make sure your preload is set correctly

 

[2001LC]

Check alignment and for any wheel bearing play!

Hub seal in backwards

Correct is flat side out, set flush with hub. BTW: Never pound on any point of wheel hub, with steel. Plastic, wood, lead is best brass only on hub flange studs.

 

[2001LC]

Setting preload of wheel bearings.


Note: Lock washer, Snap ring & Grease cap should always be replaced.
Snap ring gap

 

[Drewski]

Thank you both @2001LC and @excessive. I went back and used a fish hook to set the preload of the LC and had the car aligned, tires rotated and balanced. Your recommendations took care of the vehicle pulling in reverse.

I am still having an issue with the pull if the street has a slope to the drivers side. Wondering if this is a bushing issue or a Upper / Lower control arm problem?

 

[SteveH]

Thank you both @2001LC and @excessive. I went back and used a fish hook to set the preload of the LC and had the car aligned, tires rotated and balanced. Your recommendations took care of the vehicle pulling in reverse.

Did you find one bearing too tight? Out of alignment? What was the root cause?

 

[nissanh]

It should be a lose bearing.

 

[2001LC]

Thank you both @2001LC and @excessive. I went back and used a fish hook to set the preload of the LC and had the car aligned, tires rotated and balanced. Your recommendations took care of the vehicle pulling in reverse.

I am still having an issue with the pull if the street has a slope to the drivers side. Wondering if this is a bushing issue or a Upper / Lower control arm problem?

When road slopes, we pull in that direction.

If excessive pull, it can be: Alignment out of spec, R&P mounting bushing, TRE ends, ball joints upper or lower, control arm bushings, etc.

 

[Drewski]

Thank you both @2001LC and @excessive. I went back and used a fish hook to set the preload of the LC and had the car aligned, tires rotated and balanced. Your recommendations took care of the vehicle pulling in reverse.

Did you find one bearing too tight? Out of alignment? What was the root cause?

Passenger side bearing were not tightened correctly. Went back tightened to spec and then corrected to the appropriate preload. Still had some pull going in reverse (wasn't that far off of recommended preload ~7.5 lbs before tightening thing further to ~12 lbs). Got the tires rotated and balanced Also got an alignment which corrected the pull while traveling in reverse.

 

[Drewski]

When road slopes, we pull in that direction.

If excessive pull, it can be: Alignment out of spec, R&P mounting bushing, TRE ends, ball joints upper or lower, control arm bushings, etc.

I may be over thinking it.... Alignment is in spec per Firestone alignment read out.

Will start by replacing the Rack and Pinion mounting bushing. Im hearing a squeak coming out of the steering wheel now that the alignment has been corrected. Hopefully replacing the bushings will correct this problem.

 

[2001LC]

Passenger side bearing were not tightened correctly. Went back tightened to spec and then corrected to the appropriate preload. Still had some pull going in reverse (wasn't that far off of recommended preload ~7.5 lbs before tightening thing further to ~12 lbs). Got the tires rotated and balanced Also got an alignment which corrected the pull while traveling in reverse.

Likely, proper tire pressure and alignment corrected. And or rotating, getting better (even wear and depth from side to side) thread up front

~7.5 lbs of preload, after wheel bearings serviced and driven, is normal. Wheel bearing begin loosening as soon as we drive after servicing.
At 7.5lbs preload, there wouldn't be any play in wheel hub.

Just to be clear; Preload is checked with "no external resistance" on wheel bearing rotation. (wheel hub flange off and pads can't be in contact with rotor)

I may be over thinking it.... Alignment is in spec per Firestone alignment read out.

Will start by replacing the Rack and Pinion mounting bushing. Im hearing a squeak coming out of the steering wheel now that the alignment has been corrected. Hopefully replacing the bushings will correct this problem.

Squeal is not a sign of R&R mounting bushing failure.

Some may call the rub we often hear, coming from steering wheel where it attaches to steering column a squeal. Others are hearing the vane pump squeal, due to improper fluid service. Others are hearing squeal from serp belt or pulley bearings.

Hi Everyone,

Need some help. I replaced my 100 series land cruiser's front calipers, rotors, brakes and inner / outer bearings. After completing the job my LC turns toward the passenger side when I am in reverse. There is no pull when driving forward. When I brake going forward there is a pull if the street has a slope to the drivers side. Other wise no pull of any sort while the vehicle is moving forward.

What the heck did I do wrong?

Back to OP:
Year, model, miles, overall condition, stock or built rig and what's in the build, accidents all matter when asking for remote help.
You replaced calipers why?
Did you run-out the rotor disk?
I assume new pads at same time too, and you bed then in on first drive?
Were all these parts OEM and was a new OEM shim kits used?

Thank you both @2001LC and @excessive. I went back and used a fish hook to set the preload of the LC and had the car aligned, tires rotated and balanced. Your recommendations took care of the vehicle pulling in reverse.

I am still having an issue with the pull if the street has a slope to the drivers side. Wondering if this is a bushing issue or a Upper / Lower control arm problem?

Some turn of steering wheel (pull) while rolling in direction of slope, is normal. Also: Make sure your tire pressure equal from side to side (frt 29PSI, rear 32PSI, is spec 00-07)

Bad rack & pinion (R&P) mounting bushing:

We can usually see if they're damaged. We've basically two different mounting systems of R&P in the 100 series (3 if you count VGRS). 2003 is when R&P was updated.

But basically, if "ALL" as should be, yet steering wonders. I inspect for bad R&P mounting bushings as follows:

1. Does vehicle wonder on HWY. That annoying slight correcting of steering wheel. While in straight line HWY driving, on smooth blacktop HWY (no ruts).
2. How do bushing look.
3. Does steering wheel come back to center after a turn, right away as it should. Or is there a lag. (Note: SAI need to be in spec.)

If R&P bushing have failed, but R&P is good. I remove & replace (R&R) bushings, otherwise I just R&R R&P. The number one reason that I would R&R the R&P, is rack side seal leaks (oil come out from inner TRE boots).

So if all as should be, including ball joints and TRE's (inner and outer). I'd want to test drive myself. If I then find, unusually pull handling. I'd also want to see the alignment print out, carfax (looking for accidents) and service history (looking for services on front end).
Note: We've found a very few inner TRE walking off. They somehow have become unstaked. The sign of this to driver: Is a steering wheel that was centered properly, is now off center and worsening.

One very hard thing to diagnose and not usually a problem. Is control arm bushings. We can't see them well. Addition the LCA is under load, even when vehicle on lift/stands, so we can't detect unusual movement easily. We can however, loosen T-bar (turn adjuster bolt CCW) taking tension off a LCA. This "helps" (more so with steering knuckle off), to see if moment in #1 and or # 2 bushing of LCA.

UCA bushing are a bit easier to see. But we do need to take the load off, to see if they move. Only time, I've actually seen movement in a UCA. Was due to them not being torque down properly, after an alignment, This resulting in movement within the frame mounting points, damage the bushing.

Personally I'd not recommended using Firestone or any of this general vehicle chains shops, nor most INDY's. I use Toyota or lexus (for VGRS) Dealership. Or SPC approved alignment shops, when aftermarket UCA and or UBJ have been installed. Or a specialty Land Cruiser shop like Slee Off road. Using any other INDY or chain shop, for any more than tire services, is asking for issues. Even then, I go into tire shop and watch to make sure they don't mess up.

 

[Drewski]

Back to OP:
Year, model, miles, overall condition, stock or built rig and what's in the build, accidents all matter when asking for remote help.
You replaced calipers why?
Did you run-out the rotor disk?
I assume new pads at same time too, and you bed then in on first drive?
Were all these parts OEM and was a new OEM shim kits used?

2001, Land Cruiser, pretty dang good beside this noise, 174k miles, stock, no lift, roof rack, or oversized tires, no accidents per carfax
Calipers were old and looked like it had a boot that was torn ... but it was not.
do not have equip for a run out
Yes the were bed
Yes all OEM

 

[Drewski]

Squeal is not a sign of R&R mounting bushing failure.

Some may call the rub we often hear, coming from steering wheel where it attaches to steering column a squeal. Others are hearing the vane pump squeal, due to improper fluid service. Others are hearing squeal from serp belt or pulley bearings.

Squeal has gotten worse. It occurs when traveling at moderate speeds 30 - 40 mph. Never at higher speeds. It usually will occur after 10 mins of moderate driving. The sound is similar to a humming / squeal of rubber rubbing on its self.

Never replaced R&P bushings

 

[Drewski]

1. Does vehicle wonder on HWY. That annoying slight correcting of steering wheel. While in straight line HWY driving, on smooth blacktop HWY (no ruts).
2. How do bushing look.
3. Does steering wheel come back to center after a turn, right away as it should. Or is there a lag. (Note: SAI need to be in spec.)

1. Not really
2. R&P bushings look surprisingly good (sway bar bushings are a whole other matter)
3. Yes, no real lag

Wondering why this squeal started occurring after the alignment?

 

[Trapper50cal]

Setting preload of wheel bearings.


Note: Lock washer, Snap ring & Grease cap should always be replaced.
Snap ring gap

Just watched these on YT

 

[leveeguy]

1. Not really
2. R&P bushings look surprisingly good (sway bar bushings are a whole other matter)
3. Yes, no real lag

Wondering why this squeal started occurring after the alignment?

Were the anti rattle springs replaced?

 

[2001LC]

Pull to LH or RH, while braking:

Is mostly associated with. Brake front rotor disk runout, out of spec. We call this warped rotors. This can happen for a number of reason. First being poorly manufactured rotors. Cheap Chinese rotors are the worst. It's more often uneven deposit of material on disk rotor surfaces. Which is mostly causes by, uneven bedding in of pad material on disk surface. The cause, could be one's side rotor disk had oil on it. Can also be, built up of rust on the surface disk surface. Then when driven and bake, result in even bedding in. We can also cause runout issues, by ride brakes overheating. Then come to stop hold foot brake on. Oftentimes, re-bed corrects.

Bedding in:
Drive at 35 to 45 MPH, brake slowing to 15 to 10 MPH riding brakes. Repeat three to four times, without coming to a stop. This results in very hot pads and rotor disk surfaces. Which we must not stop, with foot brake on. Or we'll get a hot spot, were pad stops on disk. Use E-brake to come to stop, that last 5 to 0 MPH shift to N, the last ~2 down to 0 MPH. Let brakes cool down before driving again. Avoid hard stops or heavy braking for next 500 miles. Never use brakes to control downhill speed speed.

Rotor disk Runout:
Is checked, with a simple dial gauge. This should be checked. With every rotor change, even new OEM. FSM, has turn rotor and check at all 5 lug positions. Then turn to lug position that yield best (lowest) runout. Then mark wheel hub to rotor position, with match marks. Thereafter, when rotor removed. We place back at match marks (best run out). Whereas this is doable on rears. The fronts with our wheel hub assembly, it's not practical.

Machine brake rotor disk surface:
We can have rotor disk machined (turned) on a bench lathe, while they're off vehicle. Best, is to have "turned" on the vehicle (OTV) with and OTV brake lathe.

Turning rotor on the vehicle, especially with front wheel hub assembly. Is best! It trues rotor disk to the vehicle, yield the best runout. Turning corrects runout and variation in thickness between inner and outer disk surface (parallelism). Wheel bearings must be tights.

I've correct a lot of pulling and bucking with my OTV. Even junky Chinese rotors, can be trued to get silky smooth braking..

Squeal has gotten worse. It occurs when traveling at moderate speeds 30 - 40 mph. Never at higher speeds. It usually will occur after 10 mins of moderate driving. The sound is similar to a humming / squeal of rubber rubbing on its self.

Never replaced R&P bushings

Try coasting down hill 30-40MPH in N, engine idling. This helps eliminate engine & transmission sounds, from possibilities. BTW: Most bearings ie. U-joints (AKA spiders), axle bearing, wheel bearings, etc.. Tend to make an oscillating sound, when dry (lack grease) and or going bad.

Also press on brakes lightly, to see if sound changes. If so, likely brake issue.

One I've heard at low speed. Is axle needle and brass bushing. Likely making sounds at all speeds, but background road noises override at higher speeds.

Squeal:
If related to braking, is most often associated with wear indicators. They come in contact with rotor disk, when pads are at limite. Which is about 1mm pad remaining. We can sometimes hear this while driving and not even braking. The pads should pull away from rotor disk, enough so wear indicators don't touch and squeal.

So often brake services, are done poorly or wrong. Their pads end up ride on disk. So we can also get "Squeal", while driving. Which I find, so many are not serviced correctly. Typically we hear a change in squeal sound when braking, indicating a brake related issue.

Rear brakes serviced improperly, is very common. Number one, boots of pins not replaced. Bad boots, result in water entry into pins/mounting plate. Pins may then freeze. List goes on. Not installing fitting kit, rust fitting kit or no shims or incorrectly installed.

Fronts also have service created issues. Number one, is no outer shim or not clip in caliper pistons and locked onto pad with fitting kit. Sometime, anti rattle spring on wrong, rubbing on disk.

Pulling excessive, on road crown:
Pulling excessive, on road crown (not while braking). Which may also squeal, during turns and or in a dip. Is mostly associated with bad ball joint(s). Bad ball joint(s) can result in a pulling, during braking also.

Early stage, bad ball joint: Look close and you'll see lower (steering knuckle) move up just a tad, before any movement in LCA. This is ball moving up into socket of ball joint.

Late stage, bad ball joint: Click to open video. In this bad ball joint, ball very appeatly moves up into socket.
Bad Ball joint lower 99LC 268K - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=znGVjxGw5_8

So often I find multiple issues.
Squeal, not only when driving. Very often is, we have bad serp belt or T-belt bearings.

 

[Drewski]

Were the anti rattle springs replaced?

No didn’t come in the kit. I order some today.