Noob attempt to replace front rotors pads and bearings (1 Viewer)

[bobNoobie]

I thought I am going to log my idiot work here.

I am an idiot when it comes to car repair. I broke things and makes matter worse.

so here it goes my attempt to do front rotors pads and bearing. I need all the wishes

I am sure there will be breakage along the way. I envision that snap ring will go haywire as I am attempting to do it without proper tooling. any other guess what else I will mess up?

Flange Gasket 43422 60070
Axle nut lock washer 90215-42025
Axle nut 54mm socket
Outer bearing 9008036067
Inner bearing 9008036098
Bearing seal 9031170011
Push washer 9021442030

I am equipped with chow cares you tube video

 

[mitchjohnson000]

Use a brass drift to knock out the bearing races.

 

[bobNoobie]

Thanks for reminding. I just ordered in..

 

[ramangain]

If you are using OEM front brake pads, do yourself a solid and get the Mr. T brake pad shim kit too. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! It will make the front pad installation much easier. If you don't follow the directions and start randomly bending metal tabs, you'll regret it. Don't get the equivalent Duralast brake pad shim kit, it is crap compared to the Mt. T brake pad shim kit. You may want to get new caliper brake pad retaining pins too (the ones that hold the brake pads and shims in place).

Buy everything that you think you need new, return what you don't use. Better to have all of the parts available than be stuck mid-job and have to get more parts.

I'd also highly recommend new cone washers for the hub flange too. It makes reinstallation a bit easier.

 

[bobNoobie]

do you have the part number handy for that cone washer? is it that six pieces per side little item?

 

[ramangain]

The cone washers are the parts that seat in the hole for the studs that hold the hub flange to the hub with washers and nuts. They are the bastardly things you will invent new variants of cuss words to convince to pop loose with a brass hammer to remove the hub flange. Just be patient, ensure you DON'T hit the studs and distort the threads.

If you don't have access to the FSM, download it and read over the steps a couple of times before starting the job.

 

[saucebox]

Worth getting the proper snap ring pliers also: Snap Ring Pliers - Fits Early - 2007 Land Cruisers including the 2x/4x/5x/6x/7x/8x/10x models (FASNAP) - https://cruiserteq.com/snap-ring-pliers-fits-early-2007-land-cruisers-including-the-2x-4x-5x-6x-7x-8x-10x-models-fasnap/. Stanley Proto J250G are a great set as well, and on Amazon Prime.

Many suggest new snap rings as well—Cruiser Outfitters sells a handful of different sizes for like $14. You don't want one to pop off. Front Wheel Snap Ring Kit - Fits 1998-2007 IFS UZJ100/LX470 - https://cruiserteq.com/front-wheel-snap-ring-kit-fits-1998-2007-ifs-uzj100-lx470/

Like @ramangain suggested, review the sections in the FSM. You'll want something to measure preload as well.

The job might seem like a huge fuss the first time, but once you get the hang of the particulars it's not so bad.

 

[bobNoobie]

I got this in the FSM

and couple next pages after this to replace the pads.
is there other FSM pages that would be helpful


edit:
NVM I got the Suspension and Axle PDF. reading through it now. thanks

Found the cone washer part number
4232360030

 

[gatormark91]

Get a brass hammer. It is the safest and quickest way to break the cone washers free without messing up threads.

 

[Bigsky80]

If you plan to use the old races to seat the new ones make sure you sand or file the leading edge of the old race. My dumb ass didn't and I got them both stuck
Cheers,
Scot

 

[l3n0x]

If you plan to use the old races to seat the new ones make sure you sand or file the leading edge of the old race. My dumb ass didn't and I got them both stuck
Cheers,
Scot

You're supposed to cut the old race with an angle grinder (that makes a wide enough gap) so it won't get stuck

 

[thebeedeegee]

I had success busting cone washers out by putting a drift on the side of the flange near the stud and smacking that with a hammer. It takes a few smacks but mine popped.

One thing I noticed on those youtube vids...that guy doesn't actually check the breakaway force after setting bearing pre-load. Some of the smarter people here on mud have said that setting the bearings that loose has led to issues down the road. I recommend getting a fish scale and using the FSM method to check the bearing break away force. It's not that difficult. On my setup it took about 48 ft lbs on the inner nut to get the break away set between 12 to 14 lb/ft...but that was with the old bearings new bearings are probably different but I would definitely check it.

It's not like your wheel will fall off, but it will lead to bearing chatter and I think loosen up even more over time as it wears. My driver side was finger tight when I did my bearings and I had a lot of hub flange and CV wear on that side as well.

 

[2001LC]

I had success busting cone washers out by putting a drift on the side of the flange near the stud and smacking that with a hammer. It takes a few smacks but mine popped.

You do not want to pounding on hub flange or wheel hub, Doing so can warp them. Then hub flange may not seal well to wheel hub (water entry issues) and or not center axle well. Also if hit at cone wash seat, it warps the centering hole (seat) for cone washer.

I spent the time needed taking down high spot to correct/flatten these wheel hubs that have been pounded on (warped).

I thought I am going to log my idiot work here.

I am an idiot when it comes to car repair. I broke things and makes matter worse.

so here it goes my attempt to do front rotors pads and bearing. I need all the wishes

I am sure there will be breakage along the way. I envision that snap ring will go haywire as I am attempting to do it without proper tooling. any other guess what else I will mess up?

Flange Gasket 43422 60070
Axle nut lock washer 90215-42025
Axle nut 54mm socket
Outer bearing 9008036067
Inner bearing 9008036098
Bearing seal 9031170011
Push washer 9021442030

I am equipped with chow cares you tube video

Do not use old race with new wheel bearings. If replacing wheel bearing, use new race provide with bearing. Do not mix up!

These wheel bearing rarely need replacing. If reusing wheel bearing do not mix-up side to side. Keep bearing with same race always.

Here is a bad wheel bearing that did need replacing.

 

[2001LC]

Here is a hub flange someone glued on with FIPG. Man was it a bear to pop the cone washers out and remove hub flange. But this is how done.


Here's how I do it today. It is fast!

 

[thebeedeegee]

You do not want to pounding on hub flange or wheel hub, Doing so can warp them. Then hub flange may not seal well to wheel hub (water entery) and or not center axle well. Also if hit at cone wash seat, it warps the centering hole (seat) for cone washer.

Good to know. After striking the studs with the nuts still on during my bearing service, the nuts didn't go on as smoothly afterwards so I was scared to bugger them up worse. This time when I popped the cone washers by pounding the flange I was installing a new flange, but didn't think I could actually warp it.

 

[harrydunn]

You sir, are my hero. I may need to get one of those. I just use my hammer and brass drift but pneumatic is always more fun.

Here is a hub flange someone glued on with FIPG. Man was it a bear to pop the cone washer out and remove hub flange. But this is how done.


Here's how I do today. It is fast!

 

[2001LC]

I do not leave nut on studs any longer, while pounding on studs with brass dowel. The base dowel will not damage threads of stud. But if you pound on nut at all, it does damage its threads. The nuts are non-reusable according to FSM. What I've found is the thread of nuts stretch and wear. I'll reuse nuts with a dab of blue loctite, if nuts feel snug on threads. But if they feel sloppy on stud, I replace them (nuts). The FSM also shows wheel bearing and race non reusable. But note that is "if" race removed from hub.


I've made some changes to procedure to stream line, make easier or cleaner. But here's some old post and videos that cover basic.

Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.

Installing vane pump (power steering pump) torquing 3 mounting bolts to 13ft-lbf. Attache HP line to pump with new gasket, torque union bolt to 37ft-lbf

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[flintknapper]

You sir, are my hero. I may need to get one of those. I just use my hammer and brass drift but pneumatic is always more fun.

VIM Tools Soft Tip Air Hammers VIMAH100 - The Home Depot

3-Piece Set includes (1) Aluminum Hammer, (1) Brass Hammer, and (1) Nylon Hammer. Non-sparking. For aluminum body cars.

www.homedepot.com

 

[waitdontshoot]

I dont know what brought you to this job but for me it was because the thud from N to D turned into a slip of the cv axle inside the axle flange. The cv axles that were on my 99 were not stock and I had to replace them during this job. I pretty much followed everything Chow did step for step and it went ok. Im sure its not popular but i did not replace the races when i changed the bearings. so far its ok but technically they are matched so they should be replaced together. The washer cones were definitely a pain to get off but i did it with a brass punch (destroying the punch in the process) just make sure that you are careful to make sure that the punch is on the stud and not on the nut. Takes time but it works. I ended up going as deep as the front diff seals and it took 2 seals and attempts to get them in straight. Im sure there are better grease monkeys than I but the job is done and it drives great. Good luck.

 

[rc50cal]

Thank you so much Flintknapper for digging up the cone washer part number. What is the part number for those 6 nuts that hold the flange on? I think FSM shows them as non-reusable.