rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Is there a ground wire, usually a big cable or a mesh strap, from the starter to the frame?
no power to anything - battery charged (solved) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Kschep
- Start date
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rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Is there any way you can get your probe into the wire around the new fusible link?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Make sure the tranny is in neutral.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
If you have a trickle charger, go ahead and hook it up. I believe you want to see about 12.7v across the terminals. I had a battery this morning in a vehicle that would not crank. The battery showed 12.3v before I added charge to start the vehicle.
- Thread starter
- #45
i added this relay which is why i had to splice the main Black/Yellow to go to it so my Aux fuse box would be ign powered not constant...
whitey45
SILVER Star
Pull the black/yellow off the solenoid and jump power to the terminal, lets confirm your battery can crank the engine over.
- Thread starter
- #47
1. Pictured with my red prong pointing at it - that seems to be the ground from the starter. Come from beneath starter to that firewall bolt position
2. Yes I did stick my prong in the fusible link end plug and it’s transmitting the voltage perfectly meaning exact same numbers as if I just held prongs on + & - battery terminals
- Thread starter
- #48
whitey45
SILVER Star
That ground should be going to the frame, not the body.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Yes jump it right to the big terminal on the starter, make sure your in neutral and away from the fan!
whitey45
SILVER Star
Your powering up the solenoid, not the black yellow wire.
The OEM standard termination point for the starter ground cable is under the bolt that holds the brake line block to the frame. It's in the lower left corner of your picture, below:
Kyle,
It may help if you had the chance to school yourself on the circuits you are dealing with.
In the details below, this is how to identify the different connections on the starter solenoid:
50 - energizes the solenoid. From your picture, the blade under the connector you identified "take that one off?" at 9 o'clock. It is energized when the ignition switch is turned to "Start", or if a jumper is connected with 12V positive. When this is energized, even if the starter doesn't turn, you should here a "click" from the solenoid being energized.
30 - positive cable from the battery.
Note the starter is supposed to have a heavy ground cable connected directly to the frame, to complete the circuit back to the negative terminal on the battery. The negative cable from the battery should be connected to the frame, as well. The fasteners and washers and frame need to be polished clean to ensure no resistance in the circuit path.
C - power to the starter motor, only when the solenoid is energized by supplying 12V positive to terminal 50
To ignition coil - only energized when the solenoid is energized, supplies power directly to the positive coil terminal, on some models
You've been directed (above) to jump 12V positive to terminal 50 to rule out any problems with the wires running through the ignition switch. Make certain the transmission is in neutral. The engine won't start unless the ignition key is in the "run" position.
From the service manual:
It may help if you had the chance to school yourself on the circuits you are dealing with.
In the details below, this is how to identify the different connections on the starter solenoid:
50 - energizes the solenoid. From your picture, the blade under the connector you identified "take that one off?" at 9 o'clock. It is energized when the ignition switch is turned to "Start", or if a jumper is connected with 12V positive. When this is energized, even if the starter doesn't turn, you should here a "click" from the solenoid being energized.
30 - positive cable from the battery.
Note the starter is supposed to have a heavy ground cable connected directly to the frame, to complete the circuit back to the negative terminal on the battery. The negative cable from the battery should be connected to the frame, as well. The fasteners and washers and frame need to be polished clean to ensure no resistance in the circuit path.
C - power to the starter motor, only when the solenoid is energized by supplying 12V positive to terminal 50
To ignition coil - only energized when the solenoid is energized, supplies power directly to the positive coil terminal, on some models
You've been directed (above) to jump 12V positive to terminal 50 to rule out any problems with the wires running through the ignition switch. Make certain the transmission is in neutral. The engine won't start unless the ignition key is in the "run" position.
From the service manual:
whitey45
SILVER Star
I’d move the ground from the body to the bolt on the frame at the end of the arrow. If there’s another I’m not seeing it’ll also work, but that’s the one on the frame I’m seeing.
If that doesn’t make a difference, use a set of booster cables to connect the C terminal to the (+) on the battery. Make sure it’s in neutral and stay clear of the fan. It should turn over.
Try it again with a cable from the (-) terminal to the starter mounting bolts (if it didn’t turn over). If it doesn’t at least spin the starter… either the starter or battery aren’t doing their jobs.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
So we have established that you have a "fair" ground to the frame-engine-body.
You have voltage at, and through the fusible link.
Next step is back to tour fuse block.
I noticed that you had some alligator clips for your test leads, clip the black lead to a GOOD ground reference.
Start checking voltage there.
You also said you had voltage at the ammeter last night?
But let's find out where you have voltage, and where you don't have voltage.
You have voltage at, and through the fusible link.
Next step is back to tour fuse block.
I noticed that you had some alligator clips for your test leads, clip the black lead to a GOOD ground reference.
Start checking voltage there.
You also said you had voltage at the ammeter last night?
But let's find out where you have voltage, and where you don't have voltage.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Any chance that you accidentally unplugged part of the wiring harness that goes into the cab at the firewall?
I'm not a master electrician, that said, my philosophy is always do the easiest thing first. Get a set of jumper cables, the 10 foot long ones everyone used to keep in their car. Try jumping it from another cars battery. One of those dedicated car jump starters should work as well. That will eliminate a possibility of a bad battery. Your battery voltages seems low to me, but it still should light up something. Then check ALL your fuses. Make sure you did not fry the new fusible link. Next clean up every ground you can find.
I'm repeating some of what has been said before, but hopefully simpler.
I'm repeating some of what has been said before, but hopefully simpler.
whitey45
SILVER Star
Agree, a simple solenoid jump would answer alot of questions. I really think it has to do with the fusible link, this link supplys all the voltage to the system..
Kyle ,
-you should be able to ground your black meter probe soundly and unhook your Black wire W/ white tracer stripe , from the starter , this comes directly from you key switch on the steering column , or should anyway ,
- insert the red probe into the UNPLUGGED wire i outline above and turn the key to the start position , if NO 12V , then you have a Key start no pwr to solenoid issue
- also CABLE Bond No. 1 is the most important missing part of your equation from your very helpful photos
- u need minimum :
- ground from battery NEG to :
- frame rail
- sheet metal body
- engine block above motor mounts
- remember kyle rubber insulates electricity , and what is the entire vehicle chassis and body and power train all suspended on ?
- giant insulators that need to be bypassed with extra grounds
below is the starter cable bond no. 1 set up .....
i called your cell but went to voice mail , hit me back when u can
you can do this Kyle !
-you should be able to ground your black meter probe soundly and unhook your Black wire W/ white tracer stripe , from the starter , this comes directly from you key switch on the steering column , or should anyway ,
- insert the red probe into the UNPLUGGED wire i outline above and turn the key to the start position , if NO 12V , then you have a Key start no pwr to solenoid issue
- also CABLE Bond No. 1 is the most important missing part of your equation from your very helpful photos
- u need minimum :
- ground from battery NEG to :
- frame rail
- sheet metal body
- engine block above motor mounts
- remember kyle rubber insulates electricity , and what is the entire vehicle chassis and body and power train all suspended on ?
- giant insulators that need to be bypassed with extra grounds
below is the starter cable bond no. 1 set up .....
i called your cell but went to voice mail , hit me back when u can
you can do this Kyle !
GROUND STRAP KIT CABLE BOND NO. 1 Starter Motor to Upper Frame Rail Ground Strap Cable Incudes ALL Mounting Hardware Part# 90980-07003-R Fits: 1962-1990 FJ40, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62 , MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. - Vintag
MUST HAVE when doing NEW battery cables we also offer .. Reproduction part , Exceeds OEM Original spec's CABLE...
vintageteqparts.com
