Next steps on leaking steering rack (2 Viewers)

[2001LC]

This is just one of the reasons why I lost confidence in that indy Lexus mechanic in Hermosa Beach that I mentioned in a different post...the boot (passenger side) was pushed inward, so the end of the boot and the clap weren't secure on the nub or whatever it is on the rod that is where the boot/clamp should normally be secured. They reported leaking rack and recommended its replacement. I guess they push the boot back to look for leaks or the extent of leaking? I check power steering fluid regularly and it looks like it doesn't move so I figure if its a leak its a slow one and I can put off rack replacement. Anyway. I assume they failed to relocate the boot end back to its proper location, so I did it. That's when I discovered the loose rod (circled) so right or wrong, I simply tightened that rod with a crescent wrench. This was right after I got the car back from that front shock replacement in summer 2021. Since then I've put on 7k miles including five 500-mile road trips at 70 mph . No collision.

View attachment 3325070

Actually, I was talking about the inner TRE to R&P shaft. Which is hidden by boot and staked/locked with a claw washer. These are very difficult to determine when loose. Unless very loose or boot large inner clamp undone and boot pulled back.

Record shows inner TRE replaced during accident related repairs. What I found interesting was; TOE off (out of alignment) after inner TRE torqued & locked back in. Which indicates they left it loose.

But we've now seen on few Rack & pinions. Where appearance is factory install with R&P, inner TRE's have come loose.

The FSM says the steering assembly isn't serviceable. It is, but Toyota won't sell the seals/bushings to do it. You can find aftermarket parts which will work, and save yourself quite a lot of money. Of course, then you have to learn how to do the work, or find someone who'll do it for you. Most shops won't; they get more for replacing the steering assembly than they do for rebuilding one.

Actually FSM show entire break down, inspecting and assemble. Which is lacking in assembly instruction with regard to seals (kits), but shows all in first pages (components) in draws.

Hmmm LX - those parts I referenced were for LC.

I looked up the 0445560090 part and not available at Lexus so that indicates the rebuild seal kit on the LC rack is different to the LX rack.

0445560050 for the control valve rebuild kit is available from Lexus- at least that crosses over

Never the less I bet 1 in 101 on this forum will buy a new or reman rack before attempting to rebuild one.

I checked at PQ parts, using VINs numbers. Both the LC & LX 03-07 use the same seal kits. Both Valve or the Entire R&P seal kits.

I had looked at this years ago, when I called CVJ here in Denver. For a 03LX VGRS rebuilt rack. They had no idea there was a difference from the LC, and argued it with me. They checked an called me back, saying I was correct. VGRS is a different R&P. I ended up taking in a good 03 VGRS R&P, that was just leaking, for them to rebuild. They ended up charging me extra. So I looked at P/N for both VGRS and non R&P 03-up, at that time. I found both seal kits the same.

With the LC R&P, I see no reason to buy a rebuilt. We get so much more buying new OEM, for only a few dollars more. i.e: new OEM seals, boots, clamps and inner TRE. Which with remains, those parts are most often aftermarket.

With an 03-07LX VGRS R&P system. It may be more cost effective to have our R&P re-built. But re-builders most often use all non OEM parts. So if we request all OEM, cost can jump up a few hundred. Ending up around $700 to $800 range, pre 2022 pricing. Additionally we have extend down time. Kind of gets us back to new OEM even in VGRS systems, for a few hundred more.

 

[dealmaker]

I was talking about the inner TRE to R&P shaft. Which is hidden by boot and staked/locked with a claw washer. These are very difficult to determine when loose. Unless very loose or boot large inner clamp undone and boot pulled back.
View attachment 3326864
View attachment 3326866
View attachment 3326865
View attachment 3326867

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As always, thanks for your informative posts, and your patience, I'm still learning the proper terminology for all the bits and pieces

 

[MACKSDAD]

Today I pulled the tie rods off and found some oil inside of it. Not a ton but enough to piss a bit on the driveway.

I pulled the driver side because the boot was torn, after seeing the oil I pulled off the other side too and found the same thing.

I haven’t noticed any steering issues. Is my rack and pinion needing to be replaced or is this common? Trying to figure out what to do. Thanks.

 

[FamilyCamper]

Today I pulled the tie rods off and found some oil inside of it. Not a ton but enough to piss a bit on the driveway.

I pulled the driver side because the boot was torn, after seeing the oil I pulled off the other side too and found the same thing.

I haven’t noticed any steering issues. Is my rack and pinion needing to be replaced or is this common? Trying to figure out what to do. Thanks.

I would clean up and check again in a week or two. I don't think you need to replace right away as long as it's just seeping. If there is significant loss then change it. When I changed mine I could see it leaking from the rack as soon as I cleaned up the visible fluid. Truck was still steering fine.

 

[MACKSDAD]

@2001LC @FamilyCamper
Would there be any way to replicate the leak? I’m a bit confused. I’ve never ever had to top off the brake fluid. 4 years of ownership.

I’m wondering if maybe the fluid in the boot was just a mix of grease from tie rod itself and water from the boot being ripped? Today I sat and let the truck run with the tie rods off turning it back and forth trying to see if I could replicate it to see where the fluid came from. No luck.. I saw some oil on the *outside* of the racks driver side, but I’m pretty sure that is from me dumping oil into the fill and missing it.

Any help is appreciated, just trying to decide if it’s worth it to pull the whole thing out since I have TR/TREs off already but also don’t want to do it unless it’s necessary.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Cleaned it yesterday when I got the boot off and left it overnight. No additional fluid inside of the rack tonight.

 

[FamilyCamper]

That's great news!! Probably due to water mixed with a little oil. It would be ATF fluid leaking from the rack. When I had mine as you do and I turned the steering wheel all the way to lock outwards, fluid would be visibly coming out slowly and pulling. Nice job!!

 

[FamilyCamper]

Note on boots if you don't know. you can just zip tie the rear so you don't need to mess with the funky clamp. Been running mine like this and no issues.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Thanks @FamilyCamper !! Great news for me . Appreciate the info!

 

[MACKSDAD]

@FamilyCamper is there any specific torque spec for the steering “rack end” aka the big 42mm ball joint that you use a pipe wrench to take off?

 

[FamilyCamper]

@FamilyCamper is there any specific torque spec for the steering “rack end” aka the big 42mm ball joint that you use a pipe wrench to take off?

I would see if anyone else may chime in or check other threads but I have just gone as tight as I could with feeling that I could get it off later on.

 

[2001LC]

Inner TRE to rack torque 74ft-lbf. The lock washer is non reusable and must be properly stake/bent. You've been seeing some of these come loose. We suspect two reasons, inner TRE coming loose:
1) Breaking loose inner to outer TRE lock nut (41ft-lbf), without holding outer TRE with second wrench.
2) Reusing lock-washer and or failing to proper lock (stake/bend).

@2001LC @FamilyCamper
Would there be any way to replicate the leak? I’m a bit confused. I’ve never ever had to top off the brake fluid. 4 years of ownership.

I’m wondering if maybe the fluid in the boot was just a mix of grease from tie rod itself and water from the boot being ripped? Today I sat and let the truck run with the tie rods off turning it back and forth trying to see if I could replicate it to see where the fluid came from. No luck.. I saw some oil on the *outside* of the racks driver side, but I’m pretty sure that is from me dumping oil into the fill and missing it.

Any help is appreciated, just trying to decide if it’s worth it to pull the whole thing out since I have TR/TREs off already but also don’t want to do it unless it’s necessary.

"never had to top out brake fluid in 4 years" Actually normal!

"Today I sat and let the truck run with the tie rods off turning it back and forth"
Very risky to be turning steering wheel, while rack disconnected from steering knuckle. This may, busted the clock spring.

When the vehicle tires on the ground and vane pumping fluid. As we turn the steering wheel, pressure increase inside the rack & pinion more so, than when tires off the ground. Early stage leak, would only be very minor weep at max pressure.

First clue of leak, is low PS reservoir fluid. No fluid lose in 4 years, there is no leak.

When I see bottom rack boot, wet. I look on top of boot for oil. If not oily on top of boot, 90% it's a rack leak. If oil also, on top of boot. It may be oil, from above. So further inspecting is needed.

Oil in boot, is PS fluid (ATF). If water in boot. Boot is either cut/rip or is not properly clamped. It's not grease & water mix.

We can live, with some minor leak. But must keep reservoir above low. We must also, keep oils off rubber bushings.

If we've a leaky rack and weak bushing, inner TRE are usually weak also. Then steering rack & pinion, is actually a good deal. For ~$700, we get a perfect OEM rack & pinion. Which comes with new mounting bushing, not sold separately. New inner TREs factory staked, which are pricy purchased separately. Along with, new boots and clamps. Add it all and the labor for inner TRE and aftermarket bushing installed separately. It's a no brainer!

Inner boot clamp, is easy!

 

[MACKSDAD]

Inner TRE to rack torque 74ft-lbf. The lock washer is non reusable and must be properly stake/bent. You've been seeing some of these come loose. We suspect two reasons, inner TRE coming loose:
1) Breaking loose inner to outer TRE lock nut (41ft-lbf), without holding outer TRE with second wrench.
2) Reusing lock-washer and or failing to proper lock (stake/bend).


"never had to top out brake fluid in 4 years" Actually normal!

"Today I sat and let the truck run with the tie rods off turning it back and forth"
Very risky to be turning steering wheel, while rack disconnected from steering knuckle. This may, busted the clock spring.

When the vehicle tires on the ground and vane pumping fluid. As we turn the steering wheel, pressure increase inside the rack & pinion more so, than when tires off the ground. Early stage leak, would only be very minor weep at max pressure.

First clue of leak, is low PS reservoir fluid. No fluid lose in 4 years, there is no leak.

When I see bottom rack boot, wet. I look on top of boot for oil. If not oily on top of boot, 90% it's a rack leak. If oil also, on top of boot. It may be oil, from above. So further inspecting is needed.

Oil in boot, is PS fluid (ATF). If water in boot. Boot is either cut/rip or is not properly clamped. It's not grease & water mix.

We can live, with some minor leak. But must keep reservoir above low. We must also, keep oils off rubber bushings.

If we've a leaky rack and weak bushing, inner TRE are usually weak also. Then steering rack & pinion, is actually a good deal. For ~$700, we get a perfect OEM rack & pinion. Which comes with new mounting bushing, not sold separately. New inner TREs factory staked, which are pricy purchased separately. Along with, new boots and clamps. Add it all and the labor for inner TRE and aftermarket bushing installed separately. It's a no brainer!

Inner boot clamp, is easy!

Inner TRE to rack torque 74ft-lbf. The lock washer is non reusable and must be properly stake/bent. You've been seeing some of these come loose. We suspect two reasons, inner TRE coming loose:
1) Breaking loose inner to outer TRE lock nut (41ft-lbf), without holding outer TRE with second wrench.
2) Reusing lock-washer and or failing to proper lock (stake/bend).


"never had to top out brake fluid in 4 years" Actually normal!

"Today I sat and let the truck run with the tie rods off turning it back and forth"
Very risky to be turning steering wheel, while rack disconnected from steering knuckle. This may, busted the clock spring.

When the vehicle tires on the ground and vane pumping fluid. As we turn the steering wheel, pressure increase inside the rack & pinion more so, than when tires off the ground. Early stage leak, would only be very minor weep at max pressure.

First clue of leak, is low PS reservoir fluid. No fluid lose in 4 years, there is no leak.

When I see bottom rack boot, wet. I look on top of boot for oil. If not oily on top of boot, 90% it's a rack leak. If oil also, on top of boot. It may be oil, from above. So further inspecting is needed.

Oil in boot, is PS fluid (ATF). If water in boot. Boot is either cut/rip or is not properly clamped. It's not grease & water mix.

We can live, with some minor leak. But must keep reservoir above low. We must also, keep oils off rubber bushings.

If we've a leaky rack and weak bushing, inner TRE are usually weak also. Then steering rack & pinion, is actually a good deal. For ~$700, we get a perfect OEM rack & pinion. Which comes with new mounting bushing, not sold separately. New inner TREs factory staked, which are pricy purchased separately. Along with, new boots and clamps. Add it all and the labor for inner TRE and aftermarket bushing installed separately. It's a no brainer!

Inner boot clamp, is easy!

Why would that cause the clock spring to break? From the videos I’ve watched you need to turn the wheel back and forth during this to get the boots installed. I also turned it back and forth when removing them to get a better grip on the part with the lock nut.

 

[2001LC]

I do not turn steering wheel, much if at all. Without rack attached to knuckle via TRE. The "stops" are on the LCA, and stop the turn when they contact the knuckles. Right (IIRC) turns, tighten clock spring.

I had one, I busted the clock spring. I suspect (not sure) steering wheel may have clocked so that spring was wound a little to taught. It may (I suspect) or may not have been. But previous rack install was done on it. I did turn the steering wheel while knuckles off, and I busted the clock spring. If busted, you'll know first drive. You'll get a DTC.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Thanks for all the help everyone! After finishing this job , if I was to give any advice to someone else doing it. It would be to pick up one of these tie rod separator tools. I found that most of the others in my toolbox didn’t fit very well around the TRE. This one has a swivel where the screw bolt is that allows you to get on the joint perfectly and pop it off with ease. My drivers side was especially stuck and this thing was a life saver. I got mine in a kit from HB for 60$ on open box sale but I’m sure there are plenty out there like this one.

@2001LC I have seen your video on a few threads that you made on how to remove the weird boot clamp on the inner part of the tie rod. But do you have any special tricks or advice on how to re-install it? I removed it with no issue but when I went to put the new one on I just couldn’t get it to clip together, so I opted for the common zip tie method that @FamilyCamper recommended. I wondered if maybe Toyota techs had a special tool for this clamp?

Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Thanks for all the help everyone! After finishing this job , if I was to give any advice to someone else doing it. It would be to pick up one of these tie rod separator tools. I found that most of the others in my toolbox didn’t fit very well around the TRE. This one has a swivel where the screw bolt is that allows you to get on the joint perfectly and pop it off with ease. My drivers side was especially stuck and this thing was a life saver. I got mine in a kit from HB for 60$ on open box sale but I’m sure there are plenty out there like this one. View attachment 3547125

@2001LC I have seen your video on a few threads that you made on how to remove the weird boot clamp on the inner part of the tie rod. But do you have any special tricks or advice on how to re-install it? I removed it with no issue but when I went to put the new one on I just couldn’t get it to clip together, so I opted for the common zip tie method that @FamilyCamper recommended. I wondered if maybe Toyota techs had a special tool for this clamp?

Thanks!

Did you have some issue with that TRE puller, hitting brake dust shield with rotor on?

I had one like your long leg puller, as a second choice. My first choice is a customized JTC-1258. Where I ground the opening a bit larger. Works really well.

First Toyota calls the large inner boot clamp, non reusable.
If you just pry clamp off, the lock catch "may" be damaged. So if planning on reusing, it's best. To squeeze the clamp at outer catches to release lock catch as you pop off.

In the video, I'm showing how the clamp works. Once one understand, how the clamp works. It takes patients and a gentle touch. I mention in video it's tricky. Because it's so hard to hold clamp from moving around, at same time, one's getting long handle needle nose pliers onto the pinch catches of clamp.

I set the clamp in place, closed as much as I can by hand lined up perfectly. Then grab outer catches with needle nose. With patients & practice, it easy..

 

[2001LC]

If, I've not mentioned it. When replacing R&P, inner TRE or just boot. We do not need to remove outer TRE from Kunkle. We can just separate outer TRE from inner by releasing out boot clamp, outer lock-nut and turning inner TRE while holding outer TRE.

In most cases. When I replace the R&P, I replace outer TRE at same time. I always use OEM TRE. I do not like the 555 or any others I've seen.

If just inspecting the inner TRE, to see that it is properly stake. We don't remove or separate TRE's. We just slip boot outward, out of the way.

Note: We have two different length in the 100 series, outer TRE. 98-02 and 03-07.

 

[MACKSDAD]

Did you have some issue with that TRE puller, hitting brake dust shield with rotor on?

I had one like, as a second choice. My first choice is a customized JTC-1258. Where I ground the opening a bit larger. Works really well.

View attachment 3547442
View attachment 3547448
First Toyota calls the large inner boot clamp, non reusable.
If you just pry clamp off, the lock catch "may" be damaged. So if planning on reusing, it's best. To squeeze the clamp at outer catches to release lock catch as you pop off.

In the video, I'm showing how the clamp works. Once one understand, how the clamp works. It takes patients and a gentle touch. I mention in video it's tricky. Because it's so hard to hold clamp from moving around, at same time, one's getting long handle needle nose pliers onto the pinch catches of clamp.

I set the clamp in place, closed as much as I can by hand lined up perfectly. Then grab outer catches with needle nose. With patients & practice, it easy..

Definitely will be grinding mine in the same way! It did hit the shield at first but I found if you get it in proper position it won’t touch it. Thanks!

 

[2001LC]

Definitely will be grinding mine in the same way! It did hit the shield at first but I found if you get it in proper position it won’t touch it. Thanks!

I wish every DIY and every shop would use pullers . I correct so much damage, form those using BFH, to pound of ball joints and TRE.