Steering Rack Centering (1 Viewer)

[rslimbers]

Just got done replacing LCA bushings #1 & 2 on both arms and replaced my steering rack. Both jobs not so fun but happy to be on the other side of it. All my front end is more or less buttoned up at this point and wanted to check the community’s feedback before I go any further.

I followed all the guidance to the best of my ability for steering rack FAQ page. After getting old rack out (steering wheel centered and held by a rope to the brake pedal) I measured the inner tie rod length end to end on both sides to make sure it matched the old one. I was able to get it out after a lot of cursing at the truck and cutting the stubborn PS return line without turning the wheel in any direction - so as far as I’m aware I took the thing out at center and put it back in at center.

Of course after the install it doesn’t seem to be center. I noticed it before I put my front end parts back on but thought there might be a possibility it was off due to things not being synched up. Well it’s still off and it definitely bothers me and am wondering if anyone has any best practices getting this thing back at center.

Where I’m most confused is that after I put my tires back on and with the steering wheel at center, they were only very slightly turned to the left - imo at a small enough degree that I figured outer tie rod Adjustments would sort it out no problem. But the issue as you can see from the pics is that my full turn left is limited and my full turn right I think is going farther than normal.

In summary - what’s not clear to me is how to approach this. Because if I go through the trouble and undoing the rack and getting the steering link back off I imagine the game plan would be to move a few splines counter clockwise and link it back up. But wouldn’t that screw my centering up pretty significantly? (Again with my wheel at dead center I was only slightly off to the left). Also how many splines we talking here? Anyway to verify that I’m on the money or at least close? Or is this all just adjustments and testing at the wheel? Lastly what’s the golden rule for verification for centering - is that a full left turn is equal to a full right turn?

Sorry for the 21 questions im definitely a bit out of my element here.

 

[Malleus]

Two questions to add to your 21:

What year is your Lexus?
Do you have the service manual?

 

[Bisho]

I recommend you get it aligned, but emphatically tell the shop not to center the steering wheel, but align it with the rack centered (equal turns in each direction). IIRC, on my 2000 it was 6.5 steering wheel rotations from lock to lock, so align it at 3.25 turns (please verify this and don’t take my old memories as gospel). Then when you get home, park with the truck tracking straight, pull the steering wheel and recenter it. Resetting the clock spring is a no brainer, and the whole thing takes less than 30 minutes. You’re also assured you get equal turn radius in each direction. This is way easier than trying to recenter the rack and shaft.

 

[vipergrhd]

Is there a master spline on the pinion shaft? If it doesn't you may have to undo the shaft and find center one spline at a time. Your steering position at the end should be close.

 

[Bisho]

Just realized you have an LX. I’ll admit I don’t know how the VGRS is impacted.

 

[rslimbers]

Two questions to add to your 21:

What year is your Lexus?
Do you have the service manual?

‘04

I have the pdf of the ‘04 cruiser downloaded

Is there a master spline on the pinion shaft? If it doesn't you may have to undo the shaft and find center one spline at a time. Your steering position at the end should be close.

To my knowledge and from all the forums I haven’t seen any mention of a master spline so I assume there isn’t one

Just realized you have an LX. I’ll admit I don’t know how the VGRS is impacted.

Ah good point about vgrs. Have an alignment scheduled for Tuesday - hoping to have this resolved prior

 

[vipergrhd]

I would drive it down the road and take a picture of your steering position going straight, I am positive you have a steering angle sensor and if the guy aligns it and just locks the steering down you may have issues later which could set off lights or warning. I would try to get that steering near straight before getting aligned. Just my 2 pennies.

 

[rslimbers]

I would drive it down the road and take a picture of your steering position going straight, I am positive you have a steering angle sensor and if the guy aligns it and just locks the steering down you may have issues later which could set off lights or warning. I would try to get that steering near straight before getting aligned. Just my 2 pennies.

Yeah I’m definitely with you on that

I’ll drive it around I think that’s a good idea. Vgrs should reset it to what it thinks is zero so if I’m off (which I’m sure I am) hopefully the distance off center correlates with the amount it’s off at full left and full right

 

[2001LC]

04 has VGRS.

VGRS, steering wheel is electronically centered.

With all R&P R&R. I start, by counting exposed threads of TRE's. I note thread count.

In non VGRS. I work to get pinion shaft to intermediate shaft splines, lined up so that steering wheel center. By keeping Rack centered, and turning intermediate to center steering wheel.

In VGRS, I just keep steering wheel close to center. Never turning much, while intermediate shaft disconnected. So that I don't, bust clock spring.

I end by setting thread count of TRE the same, as I counted in beginning. Unless thread count to uneven. In that event. I add both TRE thread counts together and divide by 2 (TRE). Then set thread count of each TRE, to the sum. Example: 9 TC RH, 13 TC LC = 22 TC / 2TRE SUM 11. Set thread count 11, on each side.

The alignment shop tech, should work to keep thread count the same, within reason. Then finish alignment service, by centering steering wheel, within tech stream.

 

[rslimbers]

04 has VGRS.

VGRS, steering wheel is electronically centered.

With all R&P R&R. I start, by counting exposed threads of TRE's. I note thread count.

In non VGRS. I work to get pinion shaft to intermediate shaft splines, lined up so that steering wheel center. By keeping Rack centered, and turning intermediate to center steering wheel.

In VGRS, I just keep steering wheel close to center. Never turning much, while intermediate shaft disconnected. So that I don't, bust clock spring.

I end by setting thread count of TRE the same, as I counted in beginning. Unless thread count to uneven. In that event. I add both TRE thread counts together and divide by 2 (TRE). Then set thread count of each TRE, to the sum. Example: 9 TC RH, 13 TC LC = 22 TC / 2TRE SUM 11. Set thread count 11, on each side.

The alignment shop tech, should work to keep thread count the same, within reason. Then finish alignment service, by centering steering wheel, within tech stream.

Thank you so much for the response!

So am I reading that as vgrs will ‘find’ the center on its own? Will it still do that even if I’m off from the previous racks zero position?

Fyi tie rod ends were replaced as well and I counted the threads and total distance from original rack and tie rod ends. For all intents and purposes the rack and outer tie rods were positioned the same as the old set up and steering rack was held center

 

[2001LC]

In your OP, showing steering wheel orientation Where is in different positions at each lock (knuckle stop). Dash lights are off, indicating engine off.

So start engine, drive making normal turns, LH & RH. Then stop and try again, while engine still idling.

----------

With VGRS system. We need engine idling, to check steering wheel. We turn steering wheel lock to lock ( Knuckle Stop to Stop). If we get, ~ 2 1/3 turns lock to lock, this indicates VGRS is working. More, ~ 3+ turns, VGRS is off (in fail safe).

When engine off, and key turned off. VGRS locks in fail safe. Which is same gearing as non VGRS system steering. Where steering wheel turns more than 2 1/3 turns lock to lock. This is the same, as VGRS gears adjust gears too, during higher speeds driving. Where it takes more turns/input of/to steering wheel, to go from lock to lock. Steering wheel may or may not have been centered, as engine & IG key turn off.

When battery disconnected, then reconnected. VGRS light blinks, steering wheel may or may been off center. We drive ~21 MPH, VGRS light goes out. We then make normal turns ( i do figure 8's) and steering wheel centers. It's learning where, the center/zero is again.

In a properly aligned steering system. How far steering wheel turns from lock to lock and to what orientation. In a non VGRS, is based knuckle stops. In VGRS system engine idling. Is based on VGRS calibration and knuckle stops.

When we mechanically change, steering wheel position. ie, like during R&P R&R, TRE R&R or changing thread count of TRE.
Then if after a mechanical change, if steering wheel is off center. Alignment shops will need to set steering wheel to center, through tech stream! Any one with tech stream, can easily do this. But it is fastest, while on the alignment rack. Fastest, because when we know wheels are straight ahead. We may need to repeat a few times, when not on alignment rack. Until steering wheel where we want during straight driving.

Centerening the rack, is when rack out the same distance on each side of rack housing. We measure this, by length inner TREs out of rack housing, which are inner TRE are attached to rack. There is also color match marks on the pinion gear input shaft boot, of new OEM R&P. We line the match marks, when rack centered. This set rack & pinion, dead center. Now to center steering wheel. We need the splines (teeth) of #2 intermediate shaft. Fitted so it lines up with steering wheel level/centered.

If we're off by 1 spline, on the pinion input shafts splines to intermediate shafts spline by that one tooth (steering wheel not centered). Steering wheel will be off center, about 5 degrees from zero point. If the alignment TOE was off, before R&P R&R and we set thread count the same. Alignment is now likely off. In non VGRS, we reset pinion to intermediate shaft splines or pull steering wheel and reset by moving splines to level. In VGRS we can simple center in tech stream, SWEET!.

One of the biggest mistake alignment techs make, when setting toe of VGRS system. Is centering steering wheel, by holding it level, as they set toe. They may get, a very uneven thread count on TRE, doing this. They do not understand how VGRS works. What they must do. Is work to get thread count the near same (best practice), and ignore steering wheel until TOE correct. Then once mechanical alignment done (toe, caster & camber). The go into tech stream and center steering wheel.

 

[rslimbers]

In your OP, showing steering wheel orientation Where is in different positions at each lock (knuckle stop). Dash lights are off, indicating engine off.

So start engine, drive making normal turns, LH & RH. Then stop and try again, while engine still idling.

----------

With VGRS system. We need engine idling, to check steering wheel. We turn steering wheel lock to lock ( Knuckle Stop to Stop). If we get, ~ 2 1/3 turns lock to lock, this indicates VGRS is working. More, ~ 3+ turns, VGRS is off (in fail safe).

When engine off, and key turned off. VGRS locks in fail safe. Which is same gearing as non VGRS system steering. Where steering wheel turns more than 2 1/3 turns lock to lock. This is the same, as VGRS gears adjust gears too, during higher speeds driving. Where it takes more turns/input of/to steering wheel, to go from lock to lock. Steering wheel may or may not have been centered, as engine & IG key turn off.

When battery disconnected, then reconnected. VGRS light blinks, steering wheel may or may been off center. We drive ~21 MPH, VGRS light goes out. We then make normal turns ( i do figure 8's) and steering wheel centers. It's learning where, the center/zero is again.

In a properly aligned steering system. How far steering wheel turns from lock to lock and to what orientation. In a non VGRS, is based knuckle stops. In VGRS system engine idling. Is based on VGRS calibration and knuckle stops.

When we mechanically change, steering wheel position. ie, like during R&P R&R, TRE R&R or changing thread count of TRE.
Then if after a mechanical change, if steering wheel is off center. Alignment shops will need to set steering wheel to center, through tech stream! Any one with tech stream, can easily do this. But it is fastest, while on the alignment rack. Fastest, because when we know wheels are straight ahead. We may need to repeat a few times, when not on alignment rack. Until steering wheel where we want during straight driving.

Centering the rack, is when rack out the same distance on each side of rack housing. We measure this, by length inner TREs out of rack housing, which are inner TRE are attached to rack. There is also color match marks on the pinion gear input shaft boot, of new OEM R&P. We line the match marks, when rack centered. This set rack & pinion, dead center. Now to center steering wheel. We need the splines (teeth) of #2 intermediate shaft. Fitted so it lines up with steering wheel level/centered.

If we're off by 1 spline, on the pinion input shafts splines to intermediate shafts spline by that one tooth (steering wheel not centered). Steering wheel will be off center, about 5 degrees from zero point. If the alignment TOE was off, before R&P R&R and we set thread count the same. Alignment is now likely off. In non VGRS, we reset pinion to intermediate shaft splines or pull steering wheel and reset by moving splines to level. In VGRS we can simple center in tech stream, SWEET!.

One of the biggest mistake alignment techs make, when setting toe of VGRS system. Is centering steering wheel, by holding it level, as they set toe. They may get, a very uneven thread count on TRE, doing this. They do not understand how VGRS works. What they must do. Is work to get thread count the near same (best practice), and ignore steering wheel until TOE correct. Then once mechanical alignment done (toe, caster & camber). The go into tech stream and center steering wheel.

Wow thanks so much this is beyond helpful. I think I figured out where I was having so much difficulty yesterday - it was always confusing how everyone was talking about being one or two splines off as I was removing the shaft at the rack in order to remove, center steering wheel, and reconnect; however there was zero precision in this and no way to make 1 or two spline adjustments. It was only after rereading the FAQ did I realize folks were leaving the rack bolted in and removing the intermediate shaft towards the firewall in order to do final adjustments. Anyways - I think I'm just about squared away. I'm only now about 15-20 deg off to the left after I took her for a spin and had VGRS calibrate. I now show 4 threads on one TRE and about 6 on the other (made some toe adjustments to feel better about getting to the shop) so thanks again!

@2001LC - I had one last question for ya. Alignment shop (4wheel parts) says their toyota tech doesn't use techstream and I asked if he could he said I'd need to bring in my own laptop. I called another 4wp location close by and they said they don't use tech stream either - just Hawkeye. This guy though was adamant that techstream wasn't needed and that steering wheel zeroing/calibration can all be done through Hawkeye.

 

[2001LC]

Wow thanks so much this is beyond helpful. I think I figured out where I was having so much difficulty yesterday - it was always confusing how everyone was talking about being one or two splines off as I was removing the shaft at the rack in order to remove, center steering wheel, and reconnect; however there was zero precision in this and no way to make 1 or two spline adjustments. It was only after rereading the FAQ did I realize folks were leaving the rack bolted in and removing the intermediate shaft towards the firewall in order to do final adjustments. Anyways - I think I'm just about squared away. I'm only now about 15-20 deg off to the left after I took her for a spin and had VGRS calibrate. I now show 4 threads on one TRE and about 6 on the other (made some toe adjustments to feel better about getting to the shop) so thanks again!

@2001LC - I had one last question for ya. Alignment shop (4wheel parts) says their toyota tech doesn't use techstream and I asked if he could he said I'd need to bring in my own laptop. I called another 4wp location close by and they said they don't use tech stream either - just Hawkeye. This guy though was adamant that techstream wasn't needed and that steering wheel zeroing/calibration can all be done through Hawkeye.

I'm not familiar with Hawkeye!

I use Dealerships for alignment.

 

[2001LC]

Note: I've been playing with caster, in stock 100 series. I find 3.1 or more degrees to much, result in snaps off high center. Makes changing land on HWY uncomfortable. Under 2.5 degrees, I get HWY wondering. I'm now pressing up a little more, to 2.8 -+ .1 degree seems a sweet spot.

______________________________________________

Warning: Not all Dealership, INDY shops are equal!

1. Some have great shops. Clue: Same Mechanic's, have been there for 10, 20 even 30 years. They take care of their people!
2. Some shop best to avoid. Clue: Can't keep a good mechanic, they have a high turner over. Why, they don't take care of (pay, benefits workload).

 

[J1000]

It's really easy to recalibrate the VGRS. Just remove the negative battery terminal for a minute or so and put it back on. Then you will have VGRS light on the dash. Turn the wheel back and forth lock to lock and then drive down a STRAIGHT road at 25 MPH and the wheel will start to center itself. This will only work if you have the steering rack and tie rods centered up. In my experience, you will need to get an alignment or at the very least use a set of alignment plates (like these: https://amzn.to/3OGPz39) and get the toe right before you want to put a ton of miles on it.