New to FJ55s. . .

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. Looks like carbon????

I have a TON of questions, but I will start with a simple one: what is the easiest way to clean BIG greasy, oily, dirt encrusted items like the bell housing, or skid plates etc... Parts washer? Sand blaster?

One more question: I was able to get the crank pulley nut off - is a puller req'd for the pulley itself?
yep, lots of loose carbon.
i use diesel fluid in my parts washer, but i've also found the solvent used in flywheel turning machines kicks butt too, but will eat your fingernails and leave your skin feeling creepily sticky
the pulley sometimes will be stubborn enough that a puller may be required, but can often be manhandled off.
 
Tom,

I like to use Simple Green, concentrated. It's safe and works good. you can put it down the sewer when done. We used it at work, in a heated parts washer.
 
If you add acetone to the diesel and kerosene it will make a good rust buster for nut and bolt removal.
 
Didn't Mark Whatley list a recipe of diesel and kerosene and one other component I can't remember for cleaning solvent?

It's a varation of "Ed's Red" equal parts of ATF and acetone. It's a beautiful thing...
 
Quick update. . . The engine is now completely torn down (with the exception of the 2 timing gears which are still on the ends of the cam and crank shafts). It went smoothly for the most part and I am pleased that everything looks pretty good. I haven't closely inspected much yet, but there were zero broken rings and only some slight scoring on a few bearings throughout. . . not too bad. I was expecting much worse after seeing how much carbon was built up on the piston tops.

I've found a semi-local shop to help me with all the measuring, machine work and parts sourcing etc... I'm excited to get everything in their hands as they seem like good guys who know their stuff.

Thanks for all the tips on cleaning solutions - I think that'll be my next major task. . . my fingers already hurt just thinking about how much stuff I need to de-grime.

I'm doing the entire disassembly right in front of the '55. I often wonder if it appreciates that I'm building a new heart for it or if it'll resent me for it. . .

A few pics of 2F pieces. . .
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Hopefully you don't need to get through that door too often! :eek:
 
Tom,
It will like the new rebuilt engine and so will you. Have fun with it.

I hope so!

Hopefully you don't need to get through that door too often! :eek:

Nope, that door never gets used (obviously!).

All the appropriate parts are at the machine shop. I got lucky as the owner decided to make a trip up here last Sat. to take his wife on a mini vacation so he did a special in-home pick-up for me. . . nice service! It's only 1 1/2 hrs. away, so not too bad but he saved me the trip down which was a nice thing for him to do.

I gave him a bunch of the tinware stuff too because he kept telling me about his hot tank and what a great job it does getting all the greasy grunge off. So hopefully he'll save me a bunch of cleaning work. I kept a few pieces as well as all the nuts and bolts etc... so I still have lots to do. I'm also in the middle of breaking down and cleaning up the dizzy, fuel pump, oil filter etc.... lots to do while waiting on the machining etc...

I'm sure I'll have a ton of questions once I hear back from the shop after they're done measuring and I know what I have to work with and what I'll need to buy for the rebuild etc...

Here's everything packed and ready for pick up.
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Here's everything packed and ready for pick up.

Looking good. Do not forget the clutch pressure plate if you plan on having it balanced...I did
 
Looking good. Do not forget the clutch pressure plate if you plan on having it balanced...I did

Mmmm - thanks for that reminder. I did sent the flywheel w/him to be resurfaced. We had a brief conversation about balancing & the gist I gathered from him was that he could do it, but w/a lower RPM-oriented motor (like a 2F) it maybe wasn't worth doing. . . it depended on budget too. . . I sent the crank pulley w/him along w/the flywheel in case I decided to have him go down the balancing road, but didn't think of the pressure plate - I need to get a new clutch & assumed I'd get a clutch/PP/throwout bearing package. Where's the best place to source a new clutch kit? I don't need anything fancy or extra heavy duty (thinking of the Porsche world where there are a bunch of options). I was talking to Georg @ Valley Hybrids and he mentioned clutches on eBay and somewhere else - I'll try to find my notes.
 
You talking flywheel?
Not sure how machine shop would balance pressure plate...

you bolt the pressure plate to the flywheel before balancing...
 
w/a lower RPM-oriented motor (like a 2F) it maybe wasn't worth doing. . .

perhaps, i did it anyway. Sometimes I do turn in excess of 5K RPM for short periods of time (Pismo).
Stock clutch is plenty heavy duty enough for our uses. All of the usual suspects should be able to get one easily enough.
 
Tom, just bought a clutch kit on E-Bay for $135 clutch, pressure plate, through out bearing,pilot bearing and alignment tool. Great clutch and free shipping. Better hurry don't know how long they will be there. If you don't find it PM me and I will give you the phone number
 
Carb Main Butterfly Shaft Sticky?

Hello -

Been a little quiet lately while I wait for the machine shop to finish up w/the 2F so I can start assembly. . . hopefully next week I'll get the "it's done" call.

Thought I'd post about my latest issue - a sticky carb butterfly. See the pics below. What I think is happening is that the carb is leaking somehow around the two butterfly shafts. The fuel is then quickly getting gummy and making it hard for the butterflys to rotate open/closed smoothly. I initially thought it might be a worn throttle cable, which was getting hung up inside the housing. I replaced the cable w/a new one, but the problem persists.

It's most noticeable at cold startup when it can be hard to even press on the accelerator at all - it's stiff as a brick. Then until the engine warms up, the throttle is very sticky - kinda like cruise control when you lift your foot off the pedal. Not so bad on the hwy., but not so good during in town driving. Once the engine gets warm, the stickyness goes away and it's all good. . . until I let it sit for a while again etc....

This carb was recently rebuilt by "The Man". I mentioned to him that it looked like it was weeping from the butterfly shafts and he just kinda said, "hmmmm, it shouldn't do that". It started weeping there immediately after I installed it and got the engine running.

Could this be caused by having the fuel float level set incorrectly? The fuel level looks to be a little on the high side in the sight glass - more towards the top than the middle.

Is this normal? Is there and obvious fix?

Thanks for your help,
Tom
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