Builds New project, 1969 fj40 (5 Viewers)

[Wildcat Walker]

The whole assembly is just over 10 bucks from Mr T, 23300-30012. Just sayin because you'll be changing that filter again at some point and might as well grab one. The element when last checked was like 7 bucks. Crazy how for 3 more, you get the whole thing with new fittings.

Shhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!! Goodness man, be quiet. If you alert certian people they can charge $129.99 for this, then they will do it!!! Make prices reasonable again!!!!

 

[6f40j9]

Good call. I should have done the same thing - I only bought the element, and just ended up going to Ace and buying a spring that seemed close, then chopping a couple coils off the bottom to make it fit.

That would’ve been the fiscally responsible thing to do, but I’m not that bright.
I’ll have another random bunch of parts to set on the shelf for ‘someday’.

 

[6f40j9]

The whole assembly is just over 10 bucks from Mr T, 23300-30012. Just sayin because you'll be changing that filter again at some point and might as well grab one. The element when last checked was like 7 bucks. Crazy how for 3 more, you get the whole thing with new fittings.

Wish I’d known, I asked my dealer for the element and spring and he confirmed the spring was nla. Didn’t mention the whole assembly though. Oh well. It’s only money…

 

[knuckle47]

So many parts counters are staffed by 25 - 45 year olds and they rarely have a clue unless the computer displays the images… one guy I ran into at the local Toyota dealer never even saw a 40/45. I showed him a photo and he was in awe

 

[6f40j9]

So many parts counters are staffed by 25 - 45 year olds and they rarely have a clue unless the computer displays the images… one guy I ran into at the local Toyota dealer never even saw a 40/45. I showed him a photo and he was in awe

My guy is usually pretty good, I’ve been going to him since the early 90s. I do have to coax him along sometimes though.
I didn’t ask about the assemblies because frankly I just assumed they had been discontinued as well so it’s partly on me.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Spring forming can be a black art. Flat spring, ball peen and end grain wood block/stump. Coils, make a mandrel to wrap around.

The latch on my sis's shower door failed and she and the niece rigged up some bungie cord cord contraction - I couldn't find a stainless steel spring replacement or anything to work with. Ended up using 2 of the foam ear plugs as the spring - still there still working flawlessly going on 15 years.

 

[6f40j9]

Just to answer your bike rack question on another platform. I have a QuikRstuff similar to 1up for our bikes but with several upgrades that 1up didn't do. It clears the spare tire. I've had several racks over the years trying to find the "one" (3 Thule T2's, 2 Northshore upright's, 1 Kuat). The QuikR is an upgraded 1up.

Happy cycling!!!

View attachment 3980971

Turns out my ~10 year old swagman rack works fine, as long as it’s only 1 bike. At some point I’d love a 1up, as I’m not a fan of this frame hook and the resulting friction, but for now it’ll do.

 

[firemanj92]

Turns out my ~10 year old swagman rack works fine, as long as it’s only 1 bike. At some point I’d love a 1up, as I’m not a fan of this frame hook and the resulting friction, but for now it’ll do.

View attachment 3995184

View attachment 3995185

But it works, in the end that's all that matters!
FWIW, I forgot I also had a Saris MHS tray rack but it was super heavy and cumbersome.

 

[6f40j9]

Filter assembly finally came so I cleaned out the bowl again (from sitting, I didn’t drive it without a filter) and robbed the element and spring.
Had to play with the idle again but I think it’s good to go for now.
I’ll know more the next time I drive it.

 

[6f40j9]

Well I screwed something up, not sure what.
It starts and warms up fine but as soon as the choke is off it won’t idle, backfires under deceleration and I’m pretty sure there’s a miss under regular driving.
I have it timed with the bb on the line, I have the mixture screw out 1.5 turns, and it was idling at a decent rpm (not sure what though) the last time I played with it.
It was doing so well too.

 

[6f40j9]

I guess this rubber only lasts one year. This is the second one I’ve replaced. I stored it with stabil over the winter and have been driving it as much as possible.
Is it our crappy California gas?
I guess I’m not taking it to the car show on Saturday. I wasn’t going to enter but it’s a fun drive along the backroads.

 

[6f40j9]

Decided to try the city racer option.

 

[charliemeyer007]

NOS pre-ethanol fuel rated rubber. Make a leather pump cup and grease it with neatsfoot oil. 20 years I had the leather cup bond the housing. Broke it free lubed it up and back on the road again. That was the only time I have touched that carb since I got the rig in 1982

 

[majdomo]

Yep - CA gas sucks. I had the same issue with that little thing, tons of cranking and no starting. Put the leather one back and all was good.

Was going to suggest checking firing order and possible vacuum leaks for the backfiring issue.

 

[6f40j9]

Yep - CA gas sucks. I had the same issue with that little thing, tons of cranking and no starting. Put the leather one back and all was good.

Was going to suggest checking firing order and possible vacuum leaks for the backfiring issue.

I haven’t changed the firing order at all, just spun the distributor to time it.
It has no vacuum anything now but one of the caps could be compromised I suppose.

 

[6f40j9]

There is no way this thing will idle in the 600s.
I got the timing light with the advance and the rpms.
I’ve been messing with it for over an hour.
I set the advance at 3, try to dial in the bb, slowly back out the idle screw.
As soon as it gets around low 800s, it dies.
Start it back up and it’s at 1030 or something.
Every time it dies, it changes.
Start all over again.
Play with the mixture screw as I try to adjust the idle and keep it running, check bb, etc etc.
it’s a never ending cycle of frustration.
I don’t know how it would ever get to 600 or even 690 and stay running.

 

[charliemeyer007]

When I do carbs, its after the engine has warmed up. Screw adjustments are small and I wait awhile for them to take effect. Fresh good gas helps. You can use a gas can and an cheap electric fuel pump to get the job done. Make sure timing is good, points and spark plugs are clean. Check for vac leaks, hemostat clamp the brake booster

 

[6f40j9]

When I do carbs, its after the engine has warmed up. Screw adjustments are small and I wait awhile for them to take effect. Fresh good gas helps. You can use a gas can and a cheap electric fuel pump to get the job done. Make sure timing is good, points and spark plugs are clean.

I can’t set the timing, it won’t idle that low.
I’ll check the plugs, hopefully they’re still good, they were new when I reassembled the engine.
Just filled up before it started acting up.
I know it’s probably something simple, I’m just not smart enough to figure it out.
Now that I have a tach though, 600 rpms seems impossible.

 

[charliemeyer007]

Some times you have to work with what you can. Set your timing for what rpm you have - then do the carb to slow it down, check timing again.

Use a glove and pull one spark plug wire at a time while engine is running - should have instant negative effect or a sign of bad plug/wire// valve/ring?

 

[6f40j9]

Some times you have to work with what you can. Set your timing for what rpm you have - then do the carb to slow it down, check timing again.

Use a glove and pull one spark plug wire at a time while engine is running - should have instant negative effect or a sign of bad plug/wire// valve/ring?

That’s what I’ve been trying to do. Set timing, lower rpm, set timing, lower rpm, etc etc. it gets to 8-900, and dies.