New problem. Steering wheel if off. (1 Viewer)

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tasmaniandevil

Joined
Sep 16, 2018
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Hello,

Need some help again.

Replaced both the tie rod and drag link last week, now the steering wheel can do 1 7/8 turn to the left and 1 1/3 turn to the left. Both the front wheel and steering wheel look straight. I didn't remove the pitman arm during the change. The length of tie rod and drag link may be altered slightly because the old ones are rusted I had to change the tubes and ends all together.

Just realized this after a 500 miles trip, my 80 drives good just can't make good turns.

Thanks like always
Peter
 
Did you measure the FSM spec for the drag link?

Could your steering wheel have possibly moved when the TR and DL was removed?
 
Take one end of the drag link off either at the pitman arm or at the steering arm and center it. Meaning, make sure both ends are threaded in the same amount. Take one end of the tie rod off and do the same thing. I usually run them all the way in, then make my adjustments from there. Set toe first, then center wheel.
 
cruzinfj1 said:
Take one end of the drag link off either at the pitman arm or at the steering arm and center it. Meaning, make sure both ends are threaded in the same amount. Take one end of the tie rod off and do the same thing. I usually run them all the way in, then make my adjustments from there. Set toe first, then center wheel.
Click to expand...
 
Ok, let me try that. Am I right to say that the steering wheel can be centered once take the drag link off.?

Thanks
 
I would not mess with your steering wheel if you're certain it didn't move.

There is a spec for the drag link length. I'm sure someone will chime in. I can look it up in a bit.
 
Don’t touch your steering wheel! Adjust your drag link and be done with it. Search is your friend lots of threads on this.
 
Hey Peter,

U might need to perform a steering wheel alignment to fix the issue. Try this: With the wheels straight ahead, adjust the tie rod lengths equally on both sides until you achieve the same number of turns in each direction. This should help bring your steering back to normal. Also, check for any binding or interference that might be causing uneven movement. Hope that helps, and safe travels!
 
tasmaniandevil said:
Ok, let me try that. Am I right to say that the steering wheel can be centered once take the drag link off.?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Yes. Youre basically doing a reset on everything. Threading the rod ends in all the way makes everything the shortest it can be. Center the wheel as to where you think center is, then adjust your linkages. Set toe first and then draglink. Ive never done one that the wheel was centered first time, but after a couple test drives you will get it. If you center the wheel with either end unhooked, make sure to lock the column so it wont move as you make your draglink adjustments.
 
Last edited:
tasmaniandevil said:
Hello,

Need some help again.

Replaced both the tie rod and drag link last week, now the steering wheel can do 1 7/8 turn to the left and 1 1/3 turn to the left. Both the front wheel and steering wheel look straight. I didn't remove the pitman arm during the change. The length of tie rod and drag link may be altered slightly because the old ones are rusted I had to change the tubes and ends all together.

Just realized this after a 500 miles trip, my 80 drives good just can't make good turns.

Thanks like always
Peter
Click to expand...
None of the above posts address the steering gear. It could be that's it's been this way a long time and you didn't realize it.

Plus, apparently, your truck only turns left. Do you drive it in NASCAR? :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Drive the truck into the garage and make sure the wheels feel straight as you stop and park it, regardless what the steering wheel feels like.

Leave the front tires on the ground.

Disconnect the drag link.

Turn the steering wheel all the way to the left.
Then turn the steering wheel all the way to the right, counting the exact number of revolutions.
Divide that number by two.
Turn the steering wheel back to the left that number of turns.
That is the center of the steering gear.
Wrap a piece of painters tape around the steering wheel at the very top when it is centered to give you a clear straight ahead reference point.

If your steering wheel is not straight up, you may need to pull it and straighten it up because someone before you did that, using their logic. You can do this part last.

Once you have the steering gear centered, turn off the key to lock the steering wheel so it doesn't move.
Now, adjust your drag link to meet the pitman arm on the gear. This will get it close to being correct.
Make sure your tie rod is centered between the two tie rod ends. You may need to take off one end and adjust it in or out to get them close. Count the number of exposed threads on each end to get them right. Within 2 threads is close enough. The tie rod does not directly affect the left to right steering unless you are hitting the knuckle stops on the axle.

Put it back together and take it for a drive. It would not surprise me that your steering wheel is off a few degrees one way or the other. This is now within range to be fine tune adjusted with the drag link to center the steering wheel.
If the steering wheel is close to being straight, you can adjust it with the drag link. If it is upside down, you need to pull it and reorient it.

Then after reorienting, adjust the drag link.

Leave the end clamps loose and take it for a drive. Turn the drag link half turn with each adjustment so you know which direction does what and you don't go overboard.

When all done, tighten all clamps in a position they won't drag on the lower control arms (actually, maybe that's your problem right now) and the rods won't turn on their own.
 
Set the tie rod to get the correct toe-in (even if not scientifically correct) then adjust the drag link to centre the steering wheel, Then go to a tyre shop you trust to have a full wheel and steering alignment done.

For the first steps you probably need the steering wheel unlocked so it can move freely while you adjust the tie-rod and then (if needed) fix up the steering wheel centreing.
 
BILT4ME said:
So, what was the root cause?
Click to expand...
Few things, first the u-joint blocked the new tie rod, So I had to mount the TR ends on the knuckle arms first then moved the wheels toward the tube. That caused some misalignment I believe. Secondly I've done drag link adjustment with the jack stands.. That's a big no no. Lastly I should come here first instead of watching Youtube repairing videos.

Do you know what might makes the u-joint block the tie rod? Bad bushings? My 80 has a 2-3 inches lift done by the previous owner. Not sure if that's related. I could barely removed the old TR because the joints are very loose.

Thank you.
 
tasmaniandevil said:
Few things, first the u-joint blocked the new tie rod, So I had to mount the TR ends on the knuckle arms first then moved the wheels toward the tube. That caused some misalignment I believe. Secondly I've done drag link adjustment with the jack stands.. That's a big no no. Lastly I should come here first instead of watching Youtube repairing videos.

Do you know what might makes the u-joint block the tie rod? Bad bushings? My 80 has a 2-3 inches lift done by the previous owner. Not sure if that's related. I could barely removed the old TR because the joints are very loose.

Thank you.
Click to expand...
Is the slip yoke on your front drive shaft at the front differential or the transfer case?

With that lift, does it have a double cardan DS
 
BILT4ME said:
Is the slip yoke on your front drive shaft at the front differential or the transfer case?

With that lift, does it have a double cardan DS
Click to expand...
At the front differential. See photo attached. Oh my 80 is not lifted. Thanks
PXL_20230820_162639444 (1).jpg
 
tasmaniandevil said:
At the front differential. See photo attached. Oh my 80 is not lifted. ThanksView attachment 3406140
Click to expand...
Well, that is a picture of your front differential, but your driveshaft is in backwards. The slip yoke should be at the differential, not the transfer case.

The rear driveshaft should have the slip yoke at the transfer case.

In other words, the slip yoke should always be to the front of the vehicle.

Oh, and your knuckles are very dry.
 
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