New life for an old pig... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Lucy_FJ55
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- Thread starter
- #282
HA! No worries!
There are, in fact, two different rotors for Cruisers from 1975 to 1990. The early style, which has smaller stud holes (10.5mm), is used from 9/75- 7/80. The newer style, which has larger stud holes (15mm), is used from 8/80-1/90. Man-a fre sent me what they thought was the correct rotor, but it was actually the later style (incorrect) rotor. They checked the manufacturers site and the site lists the newer (incorrect) rotor as the right rotor, but that's wrong. Everyone still following this?!
Anyway, getting different rotors sent my way soon...
- Thread starter
- #284
Tell me about it!
I removed them easily, installing them has been a PITA! I am also redoing all sorts of shat, so its always one setback after another. I think that was one of the reasons I was dreading ripping into the front end. In the end; I'll have new brakes (pads and rotors), new steering (TRE's, drag link, and center arm rebuild), new clutch slave/master cylinders, no leaks, etc.
Decided to go with a brake plate eliminator also. I bought the spacer, now need to figure out what to do with the brake line...
I removed them easily, installing them has been a PITA! I am also redoing all sorts of shat, so its always one setback after another. I think that was one of the reasons I was dreading ripping into the front end. In the end; I'll have new brakes (pads and rotors), new steering (TRE's, drag link, and center arm rebuild), new clutch slave/master cylinders, no leaks, etc.
Decided to go with a brake plate eliminator also. I bought the spacer, now need to figure out what to do with the brake line...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What studs are different?
Not the wheel mounting studs, and not the hub studs (I have run 60 lockout hubs on my 40 rotors)
Not the wheel mounting studs, and not the hub studs (I have run 60 lockout hubs on my 40 rotors)
- Thread starter
- #286
Hmmm, the studs that mount the rotor to the hub assembly appear to be different, or at least the holes in the rotors for those studs are different. The stud hole in the early rotor is 10.5mm wide, the newer rotor stud hole is 15mm wide. I assume the studs are different sizes accordingly, maybe they are the same size and the holes are different for some other reason. No idea why the holes would be different sizes if the studs were the same size though...
I spoke with Steve at Man-a-fre yesterday about all this too. He confirmed that there are two styles of rotors. He also assumed the rotors he sent me were the later style and an incorrect application. After talking with his mechanics, I believe, he came back and let me know that those rotors would work fine for my application, despite the difference in hole diameters. The explanation was something about how the holes/studs just need to prevent the rotors from spinning and the other studs were for the wheel, or something like that. Size doesn't matter, blah, blah, blah. That didn't sit well with me, especially knowing there's a rotor out there with the correct size holes for my application. In the end, I decided to return the cheap, Chinese rotors with the larger stud holes and purchased a set of slick slotted DBA rotors with the correct stud hole openings! Just waiting to have them delivered...
By the way, I was a bit miffed with Man-a-fre at first when I realized the rotors they sent did not look like my stock rotor, but over the course of a few phone calls, I was really happy I stuck with bugging them and eventually having Steve assist with figuring this all out. Kudos to Man-a-fre.
- Thread starter
- #287
Pighead- according to the folks at Man-a-fre, apparently you can use the rotors from a 60/the later style rotor (8/'80-1/'90). The holes are different size, but apparently that is not a big deal. This makes finding the correct rotor much easier and cheaper. Of course, I had to find a set of proper rotors. Blllpphhhff.
- Thread starter
- #288
Update:
I picked up the separated center arm and housing from the machine shop. They were able to press these apart after I spent forever trying to no avail.
Checking knuckles...
Here's a pic of my center arm installed and mounted back on the rig. I noticed that the center arm now has more space between it and the housing. It made me a little nervous at first, but its tapered and I cranked it on tight with red locktite... I'll keep an eye on it. What do y'all think?
... and here's a pic of one of my new TRE's that I cranked down the castle nut really tight on and then backed it off a bit. I thought it was too tight at first because it made the clearance minimal between the relay and tie rods, so I thought I could loosen it and it would work. I know realize that I have to crank the castle nut down at least as much as I had before to keep the joint tight. In this pic, I have the nut where I want it, but you can see there is a gap between the rod and the nut and its loose.
I'll be keeping an eye on the TRE's too.
I picked up the separated center arm and housing from the machine shop. They were able to press these apart after I spent forever trying to no avail.
Checking knuckles...
Here's a pic of my center arm installed and mounted back on the rig. I noticed that the center arm now has more space between it and the housing. It made me a little nervous at first, but its tapered and I cranked it on tight with red locktite... I'll keep an eye on it. What do y'all think?
... and here's a pic of one of my new TRE's that I cranked down the castle nut really tight on and then backed it off a bit. I thought it was too tight at first because it made the clearance minimal between the relay and tie rods, so I thought I could loosen it and it would work. I know realize that I have to crank the castle nut down at least as much as I had before to keep the joint tight. In this pic, I have the nut where I want it, but you can see there is a gap between the rod and the nut and its loose.
I'll be keeping an eye on the TRE's too.
- Thread starter
- #289
Bunk. I believe I have stripped the castle nuts on 2-3 of the new TRE's. And, I'm not sure how to remove them now. Two of them spin both ways, but won't come off and the other nut and stud rotate as one unit now. Any ideas as to how to separate these would be welcome.
I'm hoping I can remove the lame nuts and replace them and everything should be good, no?
I'm hoping I can remove the lame nuts and replace them and everything should be good, no?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Uh-oh! Were you using a torque wrench?
I was starting to think my cruiser was alone in it's tendency to puke parts for little to no reason. Sorry for your troubles.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #293
I did use the torque wrench and set it for 60 foot/pounds at first. I read conflicting posts about the proper torque spec. I believe I read something like 44-69 foot/pounds. I had them all torqued to 60 lbs. at first, but I was not able to get the cotter pins through half of them. So, I read some more. Then I read they should be torqued to something like 55-79 foot pounds. So I reset the torque wrench and cranked 'em down to 75 lbs. Still could not get the cotter pin through either side of the drag link TRE's or on another TRE on the passenger side.
So, I kept cranking on 'em. Then I ditched the torque wrench because at this point I was just trying to crank 'em down tight enough for the pins to fit. I grabbed a 3' cheater bar and went to work. Now I'm fawked.
I was originally hoping I only ruined the castle nuts and could then easily replace them, but some folks are thinking I may have damaged the threads on the new TRE's and drag link as well. Either way, I'm going back into the garage to try to cut the nut off the TRE that the castle nut and stud are both spinning together on.
On the drag link, I was able to line up the castle nut and squeeze in smaller cotter pins for both TRE's. However, one of the TRE's is on soooper tight, but again, not tight enough to allow the orig. cotter pin to fit. WTF? At the other end of the drag link, the castle nut was sooper tight and then became not so tight. I have a cotter pin through both of these drag link ends, the joints are all tight. I am tempted to leave it and run it as is.
I have also read, 'just crank 'em down tight, slap a cotter pin in and you're done!'. I really wasn't expecting all this trouble...
So, I kept cranking on 'em. Then I ditched the torque wrench because at this point I was just trying to crank 'em down tight enough for the pins to fit. I grabbed a 3' cheater bar and went to work. Now I'm fawked.
I was originally hoping I only ruined the castle nuts and could then easily replace them, but some folks are thinking I may have damaged the threads on the new TRE's and drag link as well. Either way, I'm going back into the garage to try to cut the nut off the TRE that the castle nut and stud are both spinning together on.
On the drag link, I was able to line up the castle nut and squeeze in smaller cotter pins for both TRE's. However, one of the TRE's is on soooper tight, but again, not tight enough to allow the orig. cotter pin to fit. WTF? At the other end of the drag link, the castle nut was sooper tight and then became not so tight. I have a cotter pin through both of these drag link ends, the joints are all tight. I am tempted to leave it and run it as is.
I have also read, 'just crank 'em down tight, slap a cotter pin in and you're done!'. I really wasn't expecting all this trouble...
- Thread starter
- #294
Arrgh. Thanks for the advice and well wishes folks. I appreciate it.
Sometimes its the simple stuff that sucks.
Sometimes its the simple stuff that sucks.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Torquing these to spec does not guarantee that the holes for cotter pin will be lined up with the castle nut.
I think the routine is to set your torque wrench to the lower end of the spec and then if the provisions for cotter pin are not lined up, just tighten a little more so the cotter pin slips in at the first possible opportunity.
3' cheater bar probably did not do you any favors...
I think the routine is to set your torque wrench to the lower end of the spec and then if the provisions for cotter pin are not lined up, just tighten a little more so the cotter pin slips in at the first possible opportunity.
3' cheater bar probably did not do you any favors...
- Thread starter
- #296
I realize everything you mentioned above, and I appreciate your help. While installing the castle nuts on the TRE's I am having trouble with, I never was able to secure the cotter pins provided. Sure I can line them up, but the nut is not on enough for the pin to have room. Therefore I figured I needed to keep cranking.
I actually did go out to NAPA to get smaller cotter pins and they do fit, but at this point I think I have definitely done damage to several of the nuts. I am in the process of grinding/removing the castle nuts on a couple TRE's to investigate what went wrong. I may need to order new TRE's and a drag link assembly, which would suck.
Once the nuts are off, the next question is, how do I prevent wrecking the new castle nuts/TRE's?! Still baffled...
- Thread starter
- #297
OK. Not sure whats up, but I may have solved/fixed the drag link ends and TRE/castle nut issues I've been having.
Earlier today I called to get another tie rod end kit and drag link assembly sent to my house. I just did not see another option at that time. After talking to a mechanic, I decided to place the order on hold. He convinced me I had a good chance of salvaging my existing TRE's and drag link and that I should look into it more before I purchased the same parts, again.
So I bought a tap/die set instead and restored the threads on everything that I was having trouble with. I tossed new castle nuts on everything. The new nuts went on fine. They are snugged up with cotter pins. Even the stud that was spinning with the castle nut seems to be holding. As I was grinding the nut off of that TRE, I was able to eventually spin the nut without spinning the stud. This made me think I might be able to reuse the TRE. I threaded a new castle nut on after I cleaned the threads real well, and it snugged down tight and I tossed a cotter pin in it. What do you guys think?! I mean, jeez, its only my steering...
Seems to be all good. All my whining must have helped!
Ground/trashed nuts
Earlier today I called to get another tie rod end kit and drag link assembly sent to my house. I just did not see another option at that time. After talking to a mechanic, I decided to place the order on hold. He convinced me I had a good chance of salvaging my existing TRE's and drag link and that I should look into it more before I purchased the same parts, again.
So I bought a tap/die set instead and restored the threads on everything that I was having trouble with. I tossed new castle nuts on everything. The new nuts went on fine. They are snugged up with cotter pins. Even the stud that was spinning with the castle nut seems to be holding. As I was grinding the nut off of that TRE, I was able to eventually spin the nut without spinning the stud. This made me think I might be able to reuse the TRE. I threaded a new castle nut on after I cleaned the threads real well, and it snugged down tight and I tossed a cotter pin in it. What do you guys think?! I mean, jeez, its only my steering...
Seems to be all good. All my whining must have helped!
Ground/trashed nuts
Holy s***! Good save!
rsbcruiser
SILVER Star
So, it was the original castle nuts?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Wow, sounds like they sent you the wrong cotter pins - bummer!
Who did you order from?
If you suspect that the threads on your TRE's got stretched at all, I would get new ones. If you did not observe any signs of stretching you could give them a try, depends on your comfort level...
Who did you order from?
If you suspect that the threads on your TRE's got stretched at all, I would get new ones. If you did not observe any signs of stretching you could give them a try, depends on your comfort level...
