New & improved front sway Bar/anti-roll bar quick disconnect solution (1 Viewer)

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Sep 11, 2016
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Location
Los Angeles, CA
I just wanted to let everyone see the the disconnect mod evolution that I found after using a solution posted here by @Hayes. In his post was a two part modification. In brief: Part one was drilling out the captive threads for the bolt that hold the front sway bar link to the lower control arm. Then insert some 3/8" snap pins to hold the sway bar in place during road use. Part two was creating a mounting point to strap the sway bar up and out of the way while disconnected. I only used part one of this mod and instead of making a bracket I just used some re-usable zip ties to strap the bar to a sensor mount near the UCA on each side.

I used this method a lot of times over a few months without any issues, but then I broke/ pulled out the wire on the snap pin trying to disconnect the sway bar last time.
Snap pin.jpeg


I was very annoyed, so I searched for another solution. Enter the T handle quick release pin:
T handle pin.jpeg


Much better solution, although they cost about $25 each vs $3 for the snap pins. Already tested it out, works great. As long as you do not drill a hole too big when you drill out your threads, it locks in place and will not pull out until the button is pressed and the little balls in the end of the shaft retract inside.
T handle pin connected.jpeg

In this last image it looks like the pin is too long and may contact the CV, but it has plenty of room. The only change I would make is I would order the pins with 2 1/4 inch grip length instead of 2 1/2 inches of grip length. Then it would be the perfect length. I think the 2 inch grip length would be cutting it too close.
 
Update I posted from another thread:

So after adding the quick release T pins for a front anti roll bar quick disconnect, I wanted to get some visual data. I wanted to see how much it actually helped get more side to side travel in the front. I have went on a lot of trips with the FSB disconnected and it definitely felt like I was getting better traction as a result of the better travel.

So I found a nice ramp to use here in the Bay Area. Ramp is 30 inches tall at the top and 12 feet long. First pictures are with the FSB still connected. My LC100 is driven far up the ramp as I could go slowly until one of the wheels were losing contact. In this case it was the PS rear that loses contact first. I used a rubber tie to point to the axle center.
View attachment 1652141 View attachment 1652142
Then here in the next photos I did the same thing, but with the pins removed.
View attachment 1652143 View attachment 1652145
And finally I took a measurement.
View attachment 1652155
Here you can see I moved 8 inches further up the ramp. Some quick math in inches traveled up the ramp vs height. I should now be able to take one front wheel over an obstacle about 1.7 inches higher than before without losing traction. Not a lot, but every little bit helps.
 
Update I posted from another thread:
you should post that again but not quoted so the pictures show up ;)

BUT, that looks awesome.

What size tires are you running? Did you see if your LCA contacted the bump stop when the rear PS tire lost traction?? Inquiring minds want to know.
 

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