Builds New Here. Freshly aquired low mileage FZJ81 + Build thread

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I think I've finalized how I want the sliders made. May be some minor changes as the shop builds them, but here's what we're going for. Full sealed wraparound gussets that have open tubes going from one side to the other through the center panels.
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Wagon has been dropped off. And snapped this shot. One of these is not like the others

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Finally got the bumper back from getting powdercoated, and as mentioned I wasn't going with your traditional black.

Green and bronze has become one of my favorite color combinations, and will definitely continue on with this theme.View attachment 1780613 View attachment 1780614
Nice color really make the truck stand out. I went Tan with all my armor very happy with it.
Nice rig/ Build

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I think I've finalized how I want the sliders made. May be some minor changes as the shop builds them, but here's what we're going for. Full sealed wraparound gussets that have open tubes going from one side to the other through the center panels.
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Wagon has been dropped off. And snapped this shot. One of these is not like the others

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If I may ask what is the purpose of the double Center Panels with the tubes going through. It seems like a ton of extra work with no benefits ? PS no offense intended really like your build, just asking
 
If I may ask what is the purpose of the double Center Panels with the tubes going through. It seems like a ton of extra work with no benefits ? PS no offense intended really like your build, just asking

Honestly, mostly just doing something different. Here in NZ, we don't have all the options aside from the ARB, TJM offerings and those leave a lot to be desired. So why not make something bespoke? My rig is kinda going in that direction any ways. While not opposed to, it's nice not picking something off the shelf, and makes me feel a bit more involved in how the wagon turns out.

But there is some function to it, most mud members will probably say it's not worth the effort though. Increase in structural rigidity, which is the purpose of gussets. Rather than having cross tubes support the main and outer bar every 16" or so you have a longer surface area being supported by the plate. Adding dimple dies to the plate section increase the plate in resistance to bending or deforming. Example would be something similar to gussets commonly found in motorsport roll cages.
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Those gussets are typically only 1mm and we'll be going much thicker. Now you take that even further and weld a tube going through and connecting those holes, rigidity increases dramatically. I was inspired by these shock mounts by a guy I follow on Instagram.


I'm expecting these to weigh 25-35lbs more for the pair than your typical slider. Another reason why most mud members wouldn't do anything like this. In rigs that can get pretty top heavy adding a bit of extra weight to something that sits low and to the center can help with a little bit of balance.

Not trying to reinvent the wheel, just playing around with some form + function ideas :hillbilly:
 
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Totally down with what you are saying, I went totally one off with my sliders there integrated into the rockers no frame mounts. Was more asking about the double sliding ceiling it up with the pipe.
 
If it looks like I'll be staying in New Zealand for the better part of 2019 I'll be starting the power+drivetrain build probably in Feb. As mentioned previously I've been looking into transmission swaps and 4L80E and 6L80E are my two choices. I've been gathering up data the past couple days on transmissions, trying to find the right transmission for my power levels in not only how strong the transmission is, but what sort of gearing they provide and how they will suit the type of powerband I'm aiming for.

4L80E is a simpler swap, partly because it's already been done on a 1FZ and there are adapters a company in Aus can provide. These can be made to handle drag cars as well as high hp offroad rigs. Another benefit is one of the standalone ECU's I'm considering has full support for 4L80 transmission. This option just gives me a little more peace of mind.

6L80E is a bit more difficult due to the mechatronic valve body, transmission control module is built in. This requires a matching generation GM ECU to communicate with. Luckily Powertrain Control Solutions came up with a gateway module so you can basically put the 6L80/90 behind any engine, just requires a TPS and RPM signal. So far this is the only solution(albeit some others have been trying to work on a solution for years and say its coming soon...).

So downsides is cost. Upside, extra gears. In particular that short 4.03 1st gear that would be great for "crawling" unlike the taller 2.48 1st gear on the 4L80E. For comparison, the A442F has 2.95 1st gear, and the A343F with 2.804. The 4L60E has a decent 3.06 that would make it slightly shorter, but not considering that as the 4L80E is just a much stronger auto box.

For reference:

A442F
1st: 2.95:1
2nd: 1.53:1
3rd: 1:1
4th: 0.765:1

A343F
1st: 2.804:1
2nd: 1.53:1
3rd: 1:1
4th: 0.753:1

4L80E
1st: 2.48:1
2nd: 1.48:1
3rd: 1:1
4th: 0.75:1

6L80E
1st: 4.03:1
2nd: 2.36:1
3rd: 1.53:1
4th: 1.15:1
5th: 0.85:1
6th: 0.67:1

So then I started getting interested in calculating vehicle speeds between the 4L80 and 6L80. This chart shows calculation using my current tire size, 315/75R16. I'm using 34.5" as the tire diameter. Note I also included 4L80E with 4.56 axle gears to try and make up for the tall(er) 1st and 2nd gear but as you can see it really affects highway cruising. I excluded the A343F due to the gearing ratios in 2nd and 3rd being exact same as the A442F, and "close enough" in 1st and 4th.

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Fortunately, with the 4L80E transmission being extremely popular for swaps, few companies make low gear sets that change only 1st and 2nd gears. Various ratios are available, but we'll use the shorter of the TCI low gear set for reference which swap over to 2.97 1st and 1.57 2nd.

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Now we compare cruising rpm's at 70 and 80 mph... 4L80E with 4.56 axle gears is out of the question with it revving at over 2600rpm at 80. 4L80 low gear set being the same unmodified 4L80 as 3rd and 4th are retained.

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Hopefully I'm not missing something here, but based off this info, for 315's clearly the 6L80 is the winner with having extra gears. Worth the extra work and costs? 4L80E with low gear set could be a nice compromise.

I'll be creating comparison using 37" tires between these transmissions and various axle regears over the weekend. Will also compile everything for those interested in how gearing and tire size affects engine and vehicle speeds and create a separate post, this will include everything from stock tire size to 37's(maybe 40's) and all various axle gears.
 
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So I calculated vehicle speeds on 37x12.5R16 using 36.8" as tire diameter. Gives an idea of how slightly different the car would drive with either of the transmissions. I do plan to go with 37" tires eventually, but as I've mentioned previously, in NZ we go through certification process for any tire size that's more than a 5% deviation from factory. I'm already certified for 315's and my 4" lift, so not a huge issue to go through the process again.

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One thing if you already haven't noticed is that the 4L80E with low gear set for 1st and 2nd brings all the gear ratios pretty close to the current A442F, it's less than 5% difference. Now seeing the comparisons with 37" tires, I question if a turbo 1FZ with 6L80E will have enough power cruising 70 at 1757 and 80 at 2007 rpm's with how heavy these rigs can be. 4.56 axle gears can remedy that and put it to where the 4L80E would be with stock gearing.

So with 37's the 4L80E with low gear set as an overall package actually closes in on the advantages the 6L80E has.
 
So talking with my shop doing the sliders we decided to tackle the exhaust while we're under there since we were discussing how we would mount driver side arms and figure out protection for the cats.

As I'll be doing a custom turbo kit I wanted to go 3.5" stainless exhaust, but as some of you may know there's really only about 3.5" of clearance where the factory exhaust goes over the cross member. The way around that is I decided to run a small section of oval tube which is only 2.25" tall but still provides the volume of a 3.5" round pipe. Picked all the parts out myself. Decided to go with Burns Stainless 1 stage race muffler, Vibrant Performance large diameter bottle stole resonator and a Magnaflow 200 cell cat. Shipping may take a couple weeks to get in to NZ, but update will follow. Connectors will be all vband, divided into downpipe + cat, midpipe + resonator, and then axleback with the race muffler.

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Hopefully have an update of sliders and exhaust at the end of the month.
 
Exhaust components are in

From top to bottom

Vibrant Performance bottle style resonator 17970 3.5" inlet/outlet, 5" body, 18" overall length
Burns Stainless 3.5" oval tubing and oval to round transitions. This will get 3.5" exhaust in between body and crossmember
Burns Stainless 1 stage race muffler 3.5" inlet/outlet, 4.5" body, 12" length
Magnaflow high flow cat 59920 3.5" inlet/outlet 4" body 200 cell
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That Burns Stainless goodness. Top quality! Only weighing in a scant 2.28lbs
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Both muffler and resonator are a straight through design
Burns 1 stage race muffler:
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Vibrant rsonator:
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Magnaflow 200 cell cat
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This is going to be one mean (and probably loud) sounding land cruiser :zilla::steer:

Also as a reference for myself recorded the best gas mileage I've gotten since having the lift, tires, and RTT at 19.75L/100KM which is about 11.91 MPG
 
Big update, this wasn't planned until later in 2019 but things lining up sooner than expected. Originally planned a move back to Vancouver where I lived for 6 years prior to NZ. But for now we're off to somewhere new! Montreal!

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With that being said, I've been busy planning out our 2019 and in particular the move and sorting out job offers. And with that build hasn't quite gone as planned over the past two months. Original design of the sliders were put on hold since we decided to tackle the exhaust, wanted to get better clearance on the cats, so waited to get parts in. Then in the midst of it
all it started seeming like we would end up moving sooner than expected. So for now we put off the exhaust and just did a temporary straight pipe and make sure we have clearance for 3.5"ID/4"OD cat on the front right slider mounting arm for when we do start working on the exhaust again.

Due to time restraints over the holidays and with a multi week tour around the south island planned soon we decided to go with a more classic design for the sliders. Went with a hybrid of weld on plates to the frame and the sliders bolt onto those.
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Of course powdercoated the same bronze as the front bumper

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Also with the cruiser being a JDM model, I've always wanted the OEM rear hatch spoiler to finish off the JDM look. Searched around forever and couldn't find one in decent condition but recently was given a lead on an aftermarket one...

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Notice the RTT missing? I sold my Adventure Kings AUS one and upgraded to a Feldon Shelter extended RTT. Also swapping from Rhino Rack HD roof rack to a Rhino Rack Pioneer Tray which is coming in next week. Kinda liking the clean look of not having my RTT on, and wallet is enjoying the slight improvement on gas mileage :D
 
New Zealand stage of the build complete. Finished installing the Rhino Rack Pioneer Platform, 270 Batwing awning, and new Feldon Shelter extended RTT. Also installed some camp/work/scenes lights and got some maxtrax put up on the Rhino Rack platform

Also started our 3 week trip exploring the South Island. Once we're finished the cruiser gets put in a container destined for the east coast of Canada.

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We need more details and pictures on that audio setup, like how you installed a 3-way system in front?
 
How do you like the Feldon tent? I see lots of them around, and they do lots of fancy videos, but it seems really hard to find detailed info on them.
 

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