Trying to figure out what's going on here and whether I have an issue.
I recently upgraded my old OEM battery to a group 31 standard lead-acid. I also upgraded to the Slee extended battery terminals, whereas previously all my accessories were connected directly to the posts. The battery was manufactured in August, and I had let it charge for a few hours after installation.
I have a heavy-gauge wire running from the battery into the cabin, where it connects to a Victron DC-DC charger. This charger converts the starter battery voltage to 24V and then sends those volts to my Goal Zero 1500x via the Anderson-like input. I can monitor the voltage coming in and going out of the charger on the Victron app.
Previously, with the old battery, the app would show 13.7V coming in from the starter battery, regardless of whether the charger was on at the time and putting out its ~380 watts at 24volts. Now, with the new battery, I get 13.7V when the charger is off, but the volts drop to 12.7 when I turn the charger on.
Nothing has changed in the aux system. No wires were touched. So, why would I be getting this 1-volt drop now and not previously? Anyone have any ideas?
For the first time, I am also experiencing weird behavior on the Victron app. The output will show 24V as soon as I turn on the charger. Then, as the voltage coming in drops to 12.7 over about 7 seconds, the app will show a dash in the output display, as if no volts are going out. But the volts are going out, and I am getting the full 380 watts into the Yeti. I can see this on the Yeti itself as well as on the Yeti app.
Troubleshooting note: To test the new battery after finding this issue, I parked the car and turned on EVERYTHING: seat heaters, heating, all offroad lights (a lot of them!), high beams, rear defroster, etc. During this test, my voltage dropped incrementally from 13.7V to 13.4, as monitored inside the cabin at the DC-DC charger input point with the charger turned off. Then I turned on the charger, dropped a volt again, and found the maximum output I was getting was 180 - 240 watts instead of the 380. Turning off some of the accessories brought the charger back up to 380 watts. So I seem to have found the limit of my available current at idle in this test. (Not sure if this test provides any relevant information at all. I have no baseline test with the OEM battery to compare it to.)
I recently upgraded my old OEM battery to a group 31 standard lead-acid. I also upgraded to the Slee extended battery terminals, whereas previously all my accessories were connected directly to the posts. The battery was manufactured in August, and I had let it charge for a few hours after installation.
I have a heavy-gauge wire running from the battery into the cabin, where it connects to a Victron DC-DC charger. This charger converts the starter battery voltage to 24V and then sends those volts to my Goal Zero 1500x via the Anderson-like input. I can monitor the voltage coming in and going out of the charger on the Victron app.
Previously, with the old battery, the app would show 13.7V coming in from the starter battery, regardless of whether the charger was on at the time and putting out its ~380 watts at 24volts. Now, with the new battery, I get 13.7V when the charger is off, but the volts drop to 12.7 when I turn the charger on.
Nothing has changed in the aux system. No wires were touched. So, why would I be getting this 1-volt drop now and not previously? Anyone have any ideas?
For the first time, I am also experiencing weird behavior on the Victron app. The output will show 24V as soon as I turn on the charger. Then, as the voltage coming in drops to 12.7 over about 7 seconds, the app will show a dash in the output display, as if no volts are going out. But the volts are going out, and I am getting the full 380 watts into the Yeti. I can see this on the Yeti itself as well as on the Yeti app.
Troubleshooting note: To test the new battery after finding this issue, I parked the car and turned on EVERYTHING: seat heaters, heating, all offroad lights (a lot of them!), high beams, rear defroster, etc. During this test, my voltage dropped incrementally from 13.7V to 13.4, as monitored inside the cabin at the DC-DC charger input point with the charger turned off. Then I turned on the charger, dropped a volt again, and found the maximum output I was getting was 180 - 240 watts instead of the 380. Turning off some of the accessories brought the charger back up to 380 watts. So I seem to have found the limit of my available current at idle in this test. (Not sure if this test provides any relevant information at all. I have no baseline test with the OEM battery to compare it to.)
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