You need to bump the front back switch while turning that white plastic cap in there. I've had to do that before so the rod would line up and the cap go all the way back in.
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What do you mean front back switch? ThanksYou need to bump the front back switch while turning that white plastic cap in there. I've had to do that before so the rod would line up and the cap go all the way back in.
What do you mean front back switch? Thanks
Thank youAs in the one that makes the bottom of the seat go front and back
Oh ok. So don't tighten the worm bolts super tight? And only tighten when I feel little resistance?
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Wow thank you so much for that! I will try that later after work. At this point I also don't mind if I can just push the seat all the way back permanently and not even deal with the motor anymore. Haha. Thanks again!I think you've got it. My seat was so out of alignment that, when I pushed the switch, I could hear it try to move but nothing happened. (it started out my only moving one side but then locked up) So, I had to realign my seat with a wrench, after I had the plastic cap back in there.
Basically, I adjusted one worm drive to straighten the seat out, side to side. So, say on the outboard side, I would take my wrench and screw the seat forward, using the head of the worm drive on the front of the seat. (That's a hex bolt head that is attached to the actual screw of the worm drive. When you rotate that bolt head, the whole worm drive rotates and moves that side of the seat accordingly.) As I moved it forward, I would note if the resistance was increasing or decreasing. Then I would drive the worm drive in the opposite direction, again noting the change in resistance. Based on that, I would drive the seat to the center point where resistance was the least. That's the spot where the seat is somewhat aligned. At that point, you can check and see if your electric seat switch moves the seat. If it does, you can fine tune it or just run it as it is!
I did take both of those into consideration. The rails were off by 1/4" before I put the seat back on. Also you're right, the cap is not seated all the way in. For some reason I couldn't get it all the way in flush. I even tried softly knocking it in with a hammer...
If the cap does not go in further that means the shaft the gear rides on is not centered in the opening. When not centered the gear you replaced will not be engaged. The new gear may already be striped. The cap does not need to be hammered in if positioned properly.