what pimp had to sell his ride? that 60 is lookin' alright, from the pics anyway. nice score man
New FJ60 Owner, seeking advice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter B10Resto
- Start date
-
- Tags
- fj60 maintenance new owner
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
first thing is to put stock wheels and 10.5 wide tires on it. why do people swap out uglier, value decreasing, wheels on stock trucks?
I'm considering it. I think tire selection is better with 16 or 17" wheels, like the 255 85 16 or 17. I don't want wide tires, but i do want them tall
Went to the dealer's site, looked at all the photos. I was initially concerned for you, as the respray looks very recent, but the undercarriage photos appear very honest - not the typical glossy black undercoating on everything. The underside looks good for an Arizona truck in Michigan.
That red steering wheel is something else though.
That red steering wheel is something else though.
- Thread starter
- #26
From what I've read (after signing off all documents) 
that the company that the car was listed under isn't the most reputable. Apparently they are experts at "hiding" flaws with the pictures. Oh well, I think that it will be a nice truck, might just need a little more love than I had expected 
. Kurt, be ready for a nice big order. LOL
that the company that the car was listed under isn't the most reputable. Apparently they are experts at "hiding" flaws with the pictures. Oh well, I think that it will be a nice truck, might just need a little more love than I had expected . Kurt, be ready for a nice big order. LOL- Thread starter
- #27
That respray has me a little concerned, not gonna lie. Now that I know the dealers aren't the most honest, and have really sold some lemons while pretending they were gems I'm a little uneasy. Will let you all know my experience once I get the truck, many pics to come.
Make sure temp guage works and is accurate and add a second if any doubt. And galley plug for sure.
Worst case it's just metal. You can fix it. The underside of my 87 is nowhere near as clean.
I saw photos that showed the drain holes in the rockers and rear quarters. That's positive as it means the rockers aren't entirely sculpted from filler.
I saw photos that showed the drain holes in the rockers and rear quarters. That's positive as it means the rockers aren't entirely sculpted from filler.
I hope hope hope this turns out to be a decent 60 for you. I hate these places that do a quick paint job over rust and clean up the engine bay then sell at a high price.....
- Thread starter
- #31
Update today. After about a month of waiting on the truck, it finally shows up today. Blizzards between Grand Rapids and Boston have slowed the shipping a bit (Ugh.) Good news is that MA has had nothing but rain for the last two weeks, so most of the road salt is gone... For now, so I am not super worried about rust, just need to keep up with underbody spray and overall cleanliness. I am out of state right now, but will be posting pics tomorrow once I get eyes on it. Super stoked to be joining the club, can't wait.
1: Check out FAQ's. Lots of great info and mods.
2: Get rid of the velour interior. That is painful to look at.
3: If you are keeping the 2F ... do a full desmog. Not as complicated as it seems and you will have a much better driving experience.
4: Focus safety upgrades (brakes, etc.)
5: Enjoy!
2: Get rid of the velour interior. That is painful to look at.
3: If you are keeping the 2F ... do a full desmog. Not as complicated as it seems and you will have a much better driving experience.
4: Focus safety upgrades (brakes, etc.)
5: Enjoy!
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Those red velour seats are pimp. Literally! Yo' can take the ladies out in style!!!
Hope there isn't much rust. Always a crap shoot with 60s, even good ones. But the north east is no place for a nice 60. You should move.
Hope there isn't much rust. Always a crap shoot with 60s, even good ones. But the north east is no place for a nice 60. You should move.
- Thread starter
- #34
morganism
SunkCostFallacy
Im sure all the fluids have been done at dealer, skip them, but ask them what brands they use, especially if they greased, you want to use the same until you start replacing parts.
Skip the knuckle rebuild if there is a nice film of grease on the ball, you will hear when you need to do em.
Oil Galley plug number one, upgrade alternator wire, rig a splash guard above your air pump if you have one, for when the steering pump starts leaking. Ground wire from ignitor case to engine/body. Conductive grease under all ground to body wires.
Clean out the fan blower squirrel cage, and if you have a small hose vac, you should GENTLY try to vac clean the AC exchange in there. Stick your fone in there if you have a light on it, Video the area, and don't actually hit the radiator fins. Helps to unscrew the vac tip, and just try and get the vac hose itself against the exchanger
Pull wiper linkage and motor, clean and grease parts you can.
Be gentle with tailgate handle and if sticking, or plastic parts now, and go thru and clean and graphite it with AeroKroil graphite blend.
If windows are hard to unroll, they aren't going to get any easier, pull door panels, clean tracks, and regrease the channels and gear.
Start looking for a headlight upgrade harness.
Skip the knuckle rebuild if there is a nice film of grease on the ball, you will hear when you need to do em.
Oil Galley plug number one, upgrade alternator wire, rig a splash guard above your air pump if you have one, for when the steering pump starts leaking. Ground wire from ignitor case to engine/body. Conductive grease under all ground to body wires.
Clean out the fan blower squirrel cage, and if you have a small hose vac, you should GENTLY try to vac clean the AC exchange in there. Stick your fone in there if you have a light on it, Video the area, and don't actually hit the radiator fins. Helps to unscrew the vac tip, and just try and get the vac hose itself against the exchanger
Pull wiper linkage and motor, clean and grease parts you can.
Be gentle with tailgate handle and if sticking, or plastic parts now, and go thru and clean and graphite it with AeroKroil graphite blend.
If windows are hard to unroll, they aren't going to get any easier, pull door panels, clean tracks, and regrease the channels and gear.
Start looking for a headlight upgrade harness.
I notice a lot of people recommend desmog. Is no one concerned about eliminating California from the resale value equation? Especially if you have a clean near original truck with no rust it seems short sighted from a resale point of view.
morganism
SunkCostFallacy
I agree, don't de-smog unless you have to. You lose that egr valve, you have exhaust gases going thru your system with no out. More carbonization, more detonations, = more headgaskets and exhaust mani gaskets.
If you keep blowing air pumps, then yes.
Think the seat belt is a dealer recall issue, along with the gas tank, the steering rag joint.
What you really want to know, is if there is any water glass in the cooling system. Anyone know how to check for that?
If you keep blowing air pumps, then yes.
Think the seat belt is a dealer recall issue, along with the gas tank, the steering rag joint.
What you really want to know, is if there is any water glass in the cooling system. Anyone know how to check for that?
Last edited:
CenTXFJ60
SILVER Star
Seems like a great base to work from. Rust free is always a good thing. You can source anything needed as long as your patient 
. Curious as to the build month/year on that rig. My 81 does not have a choke light on the speedo cluster (no electrics on the choke) Also, your brake pedal looks to have a bit more surface area than the clutch. I’m not looking at one of mine but I thought those two pads are interchangeable. I may be seeing things on the pads but really curious about the choke light.
. Curious as to the build month/year on that rig. My 81 does not have a choke light on the speedo cluster (no electrics on the choke) Also, your brake pedal looks to have a bit more surface area than the clutch. I’m not looking at one of mine but I thought those two pads are interchangeable. I may be seeing things on the pads but really curious about the choke light.
