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The problem is the road salt. I lived in Colorado for a long time. My 60 was pretty rust free when I got it. The winter wasn’t very friendly to it.Thank you. I’m hoping that a dry life in CO has helped keep the foundation from rusting out.
Yup yup, that's 100% on top of the list!Check the frame
Check the frame
Check the FrAmE
for rust
Thank you.The problem is the road salt. I lived in Colorado for a long time. My 60 was pretty rust free when I got it. The winter wasn’t very friendly to it.
Check the pinions and transfer case output flanges for excessive play. Worn out diffs and t-cases are very common on these things at this point in time. Look for bent suspension parts. Bent leaf hangers and mounts. Etc. I bought mine with very dangerous suspension damage that I didn’t notice until it was nearly too late. I was lucky to have caught it when I did or I might not be here typing today.
Yes sir, I have that same philosophy.A rust free vehicle with a clean chassis and nice paint is worth 12k even if every mechanical component is shot. However a pristine mechanical truck with a lot of rust is not worth 12k. IMO. In summary look thoroughly for rust and especially in the expensive areas like pillars, roof gutters chassis etc
100% agreed. I have an old Mercury and I’d drive it out of state but I can’t say I’d recommend it to anyone else!I have to say, him being hesitant to drive it out of state makes me like him and think he's more trustworthy. He's just being honest. I have a low mileage Sniper'd 60 that I could probably sell for north of $40k and I'd still be hesitant to tell the new owner I'd trust it on a long haul. It's old. I don't think that is a red flag at all.