New EMSpowered exhaust thread

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Hi Jason,
I sent out the replacement gaskets for you. One thing to keep in mind, when a flange connection is loose it will burn through the gasket eventually, sometimes quickly and sometimes it takes a while. Best thing to do with exhaust connections that are at or near the cylinder head on any vehicle is to re-check the bolts/nuts after a few heat cycles. Sometimes you end up needing to re-tighten them after a little driving after they settle a bit.

The copper gaskets are nice as well, they don't provide as much "cushion" as the ones we use, but they'll last longer especially if there is a slight leak. If you get a slight leak when using the copper gaskets due to there not being enough gasket thickness to absorb the any flange imperfections you may need to double up on the gaskets.

I think the one's little_joe used are SCE 4225 shown here: SCE Gaskets 4225 - SCE Pro Copper Embossed Exhaust Flange Gaskets - Overview - SummitRacing.com
I checked the bolts at the header and nothing is loose. Really, I only have one gasket failing (the front). I believe it could have been a little jarred when first installed. And like you say, this small leak could expose the gasket to burn through.

So does it make sense to run both a copper and ems gasket for added support? The y-pipe is very loud with a leak, plus constant CEL. Need a state inspection sticker soon so I'm open to all options, but I really only want to pull this y-pipe down once.
 
Check Engine Light?
 
I checked the bolts at the header and nothing is loose. Really, I only have one gasket failing (the front). I believe it could have been a little jarred when first installed. And like you say, this small leak could expose the gasket to burn through.

So does it make sense to run both a copper and ems gasket for added support? The y-pipe is very loud with a leak, plus constant CEL. Need a state inspection sticker soon so I'm open to all options, but I really only want to pull this y-pipe down once.
I don't think you'll have any problems running both. But there's really no point to stack them that thick. I'd say just run one or the other. A leak at the y-pipe can definitely cause false O2 sensor readings and cause the truck to run rough.
 
I think Ebag333 means what code he's getting. Which CEL code.

Yes, thank you. I do know what CEL stands for, but I haven't figured out a way to read people's mind yet and figure out what they haven't posted. :rolleyes:

Running lean

That doesn't tell me the actual code....

P0171? That can be caused by a lot of different things.
 
Yes, thank you. I do know what CEL stands for, but I haven't figured out a way to read people's mind yet and figure out what they haven't posted. :rolleyes:



That doesn't tell me the actual code....

P0171? That can be caused by a lot of different things.
Not worried about the code so much as I am currently focused on fixing the leak. My scientific method of detecting the leak is placing my hand next to the y-pipe connection to the block and hit the accelerator. The gushes of hot air hitting my hand tell me this leak is causing the CEL error code. If this gets fixed and I still have a CEL on, then I'll go into caring more about the code.
 
Jason, the code may or may not be related to the leaky joint. Either way it's a good idea to get a new gasket in there and tighten up the bolts to stop the exhaust leak. If you have a code reader it may be worth a shot to plug it in and see what error code(s) are being shown.
 
Jason, the code may or may not be related to the leaky joint. Either way it's a good idea to get a new gasket in there and tighten up the bolts to stop the exhaust leak. If you have a code reader it may be worth a shot to plug it in and see what error code(s) are being shown.
Baktasht- thanks for sending another set of gaskets. I will recheck the OBD2 after install of new gaskets. I am pretty confident the O2's are good and I put new Mr. T gasket's on those sensors during the system install. My obvious button is going off with the leak at the y, but I could be wrong. Will report on Saturday.
Btw, I didn't know there was more than one code for "running lean":confused:
 
I have ordered one of these systems recently for a '94 and am wondering if the location of the 2 O2 bungs in the same downpipe is causing an issue with the CEL for people?
 
I replaced both O2 sensors and that seemed to eliminate the problem, however light did come back on yesterday. Reset codes and it has been off since. Toyota ECUs are very good at recalibrating for changes so it may be a little confused at first. Ordered my O2s from American Toyota in Albuquerque and payed $220 including shipping for the set, come with gaskets and nuts. Stevenson Toyota right down the street in Lakewood, Co. wanted $192 a piece. Something to think about if your in the market for these sensors. Happy hunting 80 owners. So far I'm happy with the exhaust. I did have to move a couple of brackets so I guess my specific 80 was a little diff. from the cast.
 
Ok, I spoke too soon. My 94 keeps throwing a code 25, lean mixture. Never had this problem before. Anyone having this issue and have you solved it?
 
Ok, I spoke too soon. My 94 keeps throwing a code 25, lean mixture. Never had this problem before. Anyone having this issue and have you solved it?
I imagine you have a leak somewhere. That's my CEL code too and I have a leak at the gaskets.
 
Is it possible that the O2 bungs themselves are the problem? They seem to be xtra thick. If I recall, Baktasht explained that they were made that way on purpose to deal with the stresses of the welding. If the sensors are not reaching far enough into the exhaust it will cause a false reading. It seams that a lot of people are having the same issue. Is it more likely that we are all experiencing exhaust leaks? I need feedback on this one I'm at my end with this ordeal.
 
What are you guys doing about your o2 sensor studs? Mine are frozen to old junk, stripped one already. Is there a Toyota PN or something I can take with me down to pep-boys to get new ones?

Also is anyone using any copper RTV in the gaskets that hook up to the manifold? Seems like we are going to two different interfaces there which could be leading to this whistle, so I wonder if stuffing the old donut gasket in there as well as the paper-ish gasket that came with the system would stop that or just using the paper gaskets with some RTV or something? Its my first install of an exhaust system, so help the rookie out!
 
Also is anyone using any copper RTV in the gaskets that hook up to the manifold? Seems like we are going to two different interfaces there which could be leading to this whistle, so I wonder if stuffing the old donut gasket in there as well as the paper-ish gasket that came with the system would stop that or just using the paper gaskets with some RTV or something?

I posted this before in another thread.

I would get new manifold to head gaskets as well. I would even do this if it was a Toyota exhaust going on.

The manifolds are made to have a lot of adjustability to them as far as bolting to the head. So I would replace the gaskets and then only snug up the nuts so you can still move the manifolds around. Then bolt up the "Y" pipe to them and torque it down. Only after that I would fully tighten the nuts that hold the manifolds to the head.

This way you get the best possible alignment between the "Y" pipe and manifolds for a nice tight seal.
 
I guess I'll add those gaskets to the part list.

Any PNs for the O2 studs, anyone?

Edit: nevermind, local parts guy managed to source some for me. Awesome!
 
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