- Thread starter
- #261
Fan clutch
Rear heater
Rear heater work great.
Fan seems to always be spinning and pushing air. Unsure if the clutch is functional or not honestly. Even when first started the fan is spinning.
Builds New Alaskan FJ40 intro thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Aussie Alaskan
- Start date
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Rear heater
Rear heater work great.
Fan seems to always be spinning and pushing air. Unsure if the clutch is functional or not honestly. Even when first started the fan is spinning.
Sounds like you have the basics covered! I run a 60 series fan+fan clutch on my 74 1.5F. It is also always spinning but boy you can definitely tell when temp rises enough for the clutch to engage. Maybe yours never gets that warm!
It wasn't apparent in the thermostat picture you posted so worth making sure you have the "gasket" that goes on top of the thermostat. Without it coolant is able to bypass the tstat.
It wasn't apparent in the thermostat picture you posted so worth making sure you have the "gasket" that goes on top of the thermostat. Without it coolant is able to bypass the tstat.
- Thread starter
- #263
You know, I honestly don't know if I had a gasket there or not. Grrr
Here's to another task that would have been easier to do right the first time
.
It is called a gasket but is a flat rubber "washer" in my experience
- Thread starter
- #265
-18F on Sunday and the FJ40 started up without being plugged in. Groaned and whined the whole time, but it started. Not too shabby for those temps and this vehicle.
Plugged it in on Monday and the temps also weren't as bad and it fired right away.
Still pretty cold blooded even with the hotter Tstat and cardboard covering half the radiator.
Installed the roof rack. Barely fits in my garage with an inch or so to spare. I used the Yakima 1A towers and 3/4" rigid electrical conduit that was poly coated. Perfect fit. In fact Id almost wager that the pipe I used was exactly what the $100 plus sets of Yakima crossbars are made from. Benefits of having an electrician for a brother
Plugged it in on Monday and the temps also weren't as bad and it fired right away.
Still pretty cold blooded even with the hotter Tstat and cardboard covering half the radiator.
Installed the roof rack. Barely fits in my garage with an inch or so to spare. I used the Yakima 1A towers and 3/4" rigid electrical conduit that was poly coated. Perfect fit. In fact Id almost wager that the pipe I used was exactly what the $100 plus sets of Yakima crossbars are made from. Benefits of having an electrician for a brother
Glad you where able to make use of it! Looks goodMy window washer pump was previously mounted with what looks like a spray paint lid. I was able to 3D print a screw cap for it and now it looks far better
Not a big deal, but it's another small step in the restoration.
3D files for the cap compliments of @EmanC
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- Thread starter
- #268
Yes! Thank you for the tank and pump @FJ907WarriorGlad you where able to make use of it! Looks good
- Thread starter
- #269
Dug the FJ40 out of the snow and began to pull off parts for paint. Bitter/sweet moment since once again I'm making the 40 undrivable, but since our AK spring and summer are so short I need to knock out these smaller pieces before tackling the tub and sides when the snow melts.
- Thread starter
- #270
Stripping, wire wheeling and sanding.
The PO sprayed an asphalt undercoating on the vehicle and so I'm trying to use the cold to my advantage by setting the wheel wells outside to freeze before chipping off the undercoating. Otherwise it just tends to smear under the wire wheel.
After the parts are clean and ready for paint I spray a rust converter paint where there was rust and spray self etching paint on the bare metal.
The PO sprayed an asphalt undercoating on the vehicle and so I'm trying to use the cold to my advantage by setting the wheel wells outside to freeze before chipping off the undercoating. Otherwise it just tends to smear under the wire wheel.
After the parts are clean and ready for paint I spray a rust converter paint where there was rust and spray self etching paint on the bare metal.
The fenders I had on mine was like a tar undercoating. Heated it with a heat gun and scraped most off with a plastic Bondo scoop. Definitely was a pain to remove.
Well done with the cold trick!
- Thread starter
- #272
More wire wheeling. More scraping and sanding. Letting the asphalt undercoating sit outside really worked well. I tried one wheel well warm and it took 2-3 hours to prep for paint. The other one I did cold and it took about 45 mins.
- Thread starter
- #273
And by "cold" this is what I mean. The asphalt flaked off nicely with a big flathead screwdriver used as a chisel. Then I used WD-40 to clean up the residue.
Then I used some rust converting primer and have all the parts ready for epoxy primer and Rustic Green paint.
Then I used some rust converting primer and have all the parts ready for epoxy primer and Rustic Green paint.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
Yep, that’s “Brass Monkey” cold. 
- Thread starter
- #275
Progress is slow because I can only work in my garage on the weekends when it's this cold outside.
Took the doors off today and stripped them down.
Wire wheeled any rust and spent a decent chunk of time scraping "crud" out of the bottom of the doors and using compressed air to open up the clogged drains at the bottom of the door.
Also found a previous repair that was filled with body filler to be unacceptable so I removed it and poured the metal out as much as possible from behind. Will still need some filler.
Took the doors off today and stripped them down.
Wire wheeled any rust and spent a decent chunk of time scraping "crud" out of the bottom of the doors and using compressed air to open up the clogged drains at the bottom of the door.
Also found a previous repair that was filled with body filler to be unacceptable so I removed it and poured the metal out as much as possible from behind. Will still need some filler.
- Thread starter
- #276
The door mechanisms all seemed in great shape and cleaned up easily enough with some grease and dirt remover.
Kinda sad seeing the FJ40 without doors and seemingly abandoned in the snow.
Kinda sad seeing the FJ40 without doors and seemingly abandoned in the snow.
- Thread starter
- #277
More paint prep in the rear ambulance doors. Tedious stuff sanding and dealing with rust for hours. On a positive note, the rear windows popped right out without much fuss. One of the seals was broken and so I've got that on order for when I reinstall everything this summer.
- Thread starter
- #278
Borrowed a friend's paint sprayer HVLP gun and after mixing up the Imron 2.8 PR industrial Urethane primer I found out that the gun was clogged up bad. 45-60 mins later after aggressively cleaning and scraping the internal parts of the gun I was able to use the mixed paint. The pot life of the primer is 1hr.
3 pots of paint later and I have a good coat of primer on all the parts. It seemed to go on rougher than I was imagining it would but I'm hopeful it will settle down as it cures overnight.
Tomorrow I paint! Hopefully.
3 pots of paint later and I have a good coat of primer on all the parts. It seemed to go on rougher than I was imagining it would but I'm hopeful it will settle down as it cures overnight.
Tomorrow I paint! Hopefully.
Major kudos to stripping and painting in those temperatures. We are pulling for you!
- Thread starter
- #280
Thanks man! It's actually warmed up since those couple of -40 degree weeks, but everything still has to be done inside the garage.
