New 80 Series Tailgate Storage option from Notch @ Back Bay Customs (1 Viewer)

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So in all honesty this could be done the way I was going to do for the 200 Series. All I need is a positive form machined from wood that I can have vacuum formed using ABS. Anything else might get a little costly doing roto-moulding or closed cell form thats water jetted.
 
I just pack it so full that nothing has the ability to move (I carry the shackles wrapped in a towel).

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I was thinking more for the nice bourbon collection and the good whisky glasses to be in safe storage.


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Ideal would be 3 sections interchangable I reckon. Could then run 2 outer open inner or what ever suited, or buy more as funds allowed over 2 or 3 purchases.

Or pre hatched cuts for self shaping too option.

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Thank you to all who have placed orders.
We have 6 of the new "Oak" colored panels left, and 7 of the black.

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Are the recessed latch panels still available?
Pretty sure I have one in bare aluminum. Give me a call at the shop tomorrow between 7am and 3:30. (207) 878-8542 and I'll give you the avalible options.

Thanks Adam
 
Put one of these in about a month ago. Super impressed with the fit and finish.
 
Haven’t bought yet, but it’s on the sticky on my desk with my list of 80 upgrades.
 
I still can't believe how many cool products and vendors we have making stuff for our 20+ year old cruisers! People out east, west, everywhere in between making it happen, impressive.

Yes, both the Vendors and the community as a whole are like nothing I have seen on other internet sites (in a good way).

'Mud' has a good reputation for being a source of reliable information and for the members here (most) being helpful.
 
I installed my tailgate storage panel from Back Bay Customs and couldn’t be happier. A true work of art and great attention to detail. Thank you @Notch for bringing this product to market (side storage panels next ?:D)

There had been some discussion in a few threads about ideas for carpeting the access panel. I was able to re-purpose the stock carpet and now have a soft place to sit and my dogs are able to jump in and out without slipping.

After typical installation of the access panel here are the steps I followed for the carpet:

1. I removed the stock carpet from stock backboard by pulling stitching and staples from the plastic welt around all four sides. It is also adhered to the board with contact cement but at 20 yrs old the adhesive had lost most of its stick. I pulled the plastic edging from the top edge of the stock backboard and was able to reuse that on the top of the new access panel.

2. There had been some earlier discussion as to whether a “stealth” carpet install would be possible to hide the storage area. This would be very easy and the stock carpet is almost exactly the same dimension, including radiused corners, as the Notch panel. A good quality Velcro around the edges would work just fine for this method. The latches are thin enough that they are not a noticeable bump under the carpet.

3. The stock carpet is backed with a vinyl/rubber material that was still in good shape after all the years. I researched adhering carpet to aluminum on the boating forums and ended up using 3M Super 77 spray contact adhesive.

4. For permanent adhesion both surfaces need to be coated with adhesive. From past experience, spray adhesive overspray gets EVERYWHERE and so I carefully masked off the surrounding vehicle, access door edges, lock holes, interior door stops, and access panel hinge.

5. With this adhesive there is really no repositioning so the original placement of the carpet needs to be right. No second chances :). To this end I marked the center of the carpet with a corresponding mark on the access panel.

6. I sprayed both surfaces, waited till the tack was correct per 3M’s instructions, and then placed the carpet on the access panel working from the center outward towards the edges. The carpet was then weighted with plywood and about 100 lbs evenly distributed for 24 hours.

7. Probing with a needle, I was able to locate the gap between the door and frame and then using an x-acto knife I sliced the cut all around the edges of the door. The lock holes were trimmed in the same way.

8. There is enough pile thickness in the stock carpet that when the locks are installed they sit slightly below the level of the carpet for a nice flush look.

9. When the door is closed and latched you have to look twice to see the outline of the carpet cuts.

Rubber backing of stock carpet
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Masking off for spraying
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Carpet installed
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Closeup of latch inset in carpet
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Finished product
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Thanks for posting this! Helped immensely for my own install. For anyone else it is worth noting that having a sharp X-acto knife is essential, such as fiskars fingertip grip knife. I used my sewing pin needles to puncture through the carpet and cut all the way around the lid, hinge, and latches. The hinge was the most time consuming part. I used the pin needles by pushing them up through the gaps in the hinge to,see where to cut. Also for me the latches bolt on the tip catch part had to be lengthened to accommodate for the increased pile of the carpet... I probably didn’t cut the carpet around the latches back far enough. I love the way it turned out and no joking you only get one shot at putting it onto the lid.

I also took the time to sew new vinyl all the way around the carpet before install. Lastly I recommend adding Fray check aka fray block along all the cut edges to prevent fraying of the carpet.

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Very nice installation. Is that blood on the concrete (X-acto knife)?
 

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