Got me a new 4X4 Labs bumper but I need to prime and paint. Any suggestions for what primier and paint? do i need to sand it before priming?
NEW 4X4 Labs Bumper in the raw, What rattle can for paint? (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter chukardog
- Start date
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cc93cruiser
CRUZAHEAD
I really like the rustoleum brand products:
RustOleum.com
RustOleum.com
I used POR-15, with rattle can semi gloss rustoleum black to touch up. No primer or prep. Has held up pretty good.
I did my 100 series 4x4Labs with metal etching primer (rattle can) and Rustoleum Satin Black. Held up great and was easy to touch up. I plan on doing the same with the new 4x4labs bumper on the 80.
2fpower
SILVER Star
powdercoat it. Should cost $150ish and be done inside and out. Rattle can it to touch it up if you ever abuse it.
The problem with powdercoating is that once it's scratched or otherwise broken, rust can (and will) creep under the powdercoating and you'll have no idea it's there until it starts flaking off in large chunks.
It also depends on the environmental conditions of where you live. Here in Austin, I don't worry about rust.
Rustoleum UNIVERSAL. Best rattle can paint out there.
- Thread starter
- #9
I HATE powdercoating. Always looks like s***, a bitch to maintain etc. Rattle can only.
thanks BFT, I hadnt heard of the Rustoleum universal.
thanks BFT, I hadnt heard of the Rustoleum universal.
Gloss or semi gloss Duplicolor engine enamel! Very tough & available at every parts store in the country
brian
SILVER Star
around here we have tractor supply centers(that is the name), tsc for short.. they sell implement paint in all the popular tractor colors(many of which are cruiser colors as well). the stuff finishes harder than normal rattle can paint.
i did my labs bumper in semi gloss black.
i did my labs bumper in semi gloss black.
I used (and am using) the Rustoleum profesional (gloss black in my case to match the front bumper and sliders). I did 3 coats of primer, a couple of color coats, and then a clear coat. It is holding up very well and made it through a MT winter thus far with no rust. If for no other reason, I love the nozzle on those cans.
- Thread starter
- #13
Wow! I like your style, I think that might be a good route. What did you sand with in between? 400 griit? 800 Grit?
I did not sand between coats other than some 400 grit if I remember right between the top primer coat and the first color coat. I just layered down each coat at the interval on the back of the can. I did have the bumper itself sand blasted before painting to clear off all the light rust and millscale, then hosed it down with the air compressor, and then wiped down with solvent.
cartercd
SILVER Star
After a thorough cleaning and degreasing, I use Rustoleum Clean Metal Primer followed by a Rustoleum Stops Rust top coat. I understand the Rustoleum Professional dries faster due to addition of a hardener.
If you are adept with a spray gun, you can buy the Rustoleum in quart sizes. This also allows you to add your own hardener (most economical route for hardener is Napa).
The Paint and Body section of the Toyota Tech forum has good info about surface prep, color matching using Ace Hardware's version of Rustoleum, etc.
If you are adept with a spray gun, you can buy the Rustoleum in quart sizes. This also allows you to add your own hardener (most economical route for hardener is Napa).
The Paint and Body section of the Toyota Tech forum has good info about surface prep, color matching using Ace Hardware's version of Rustoleum, etc.
I have found Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy the next best thing to powdercoating. Comes in White, Stainless silver, and Black. I have used it on anything black on my FJ40 and it holds up very well to standard brush/tree rubbing.
I am going a different route on my 4x4Labs bumper though. I plan on shooting it with the single stage Duplicolor Paintshop stuff. I am thinking 1 qt black and 1qt clear. But I still may go back to my old standby Appliance Epoxy though.
I am going a different route on my 4x4Labs bumper though. I plan on shooting it with the single stage Duplicolor Paintshop stuff. I am thinking 1 qt black and 1qt clear. But I still may go back to my old standby Appliance Epoxy though.
I used Rustoleum self etching primer for the base and then brushed on duplicolor non textured bedliner paint on the bottom and insides and then Satin Black Rustoleum for everything that will be seen. Also put a strip of 3m grip tape on the top deck for traction. If you are ever in Seattle, you are welcome to check it out.
Thread revival!
Good ideas here, fellas, as I'm going to be painting my labs bumper next week. I'm prob going with rustoleum products too, but good call on the primer...
Cheers
Good ideas here, fellas, as I'm going to be painting my labs bumper next week. I'm prob going with rustoleum products too, but good call on the primer...
Cheers
Be sure to get a good coating on the interior of the "shell". I used rustoleum as well, the outer shell has held up fine, the interior I didn't coat as well and shows a lot of surface rust as everything seems to kick up into it.
I have everything powder coated.
If the shop knows what they are doing, sandblasts the part, and uses a zinc-based powder coat primer, you will get a finish that is many times more durable than any paint and lasts far longer. There is no better alternative IMO.
If the shop knows what they are doing, sandblasts the part, and uses a zinc-based powder coat primer, you will get a finish that is many times more durable than any paint and lasts far longer. There is no better alternative IMO.
