- Thread starter
- #41
Or just post up here and I’ll take care of it. But you have one of each of the hoses going to and from the reservoir so you should be good
I bought the 3/8 and the 5/8 hose.
Can you throw in some swag?
Build Never ending build thread...
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I bought the 3/8 and the 5/8 hose.
Can you throw in some swag?
I bought the 3/8 and the 5/8 hose.
Can you throw in some swag?
My swag doesn’t run deep yet but ill see what I got.
- Thread starter
- #43
- Thread starter
- #44
BFG announced the new KM3. With a release date of June, looks like I will be waiting till next month to get some new and matching tires for the LC.
Here are some pictures that I grabbed, yes they are on an LC.
Here are some pictures that I grabbed, yes they are on an LC.
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- Thread starter
- #45
Well I could not wait and I did a thing today...
I do plan on taking those porches off and the brush guard tomorrow in the next few days.
I do plan on taking those porches off and the brush guard tomorrow in the next few days.
- Thread starter
- #46
A little update:
My stuff from Wit's End came in and I am definitely impressed with the product. I need to get off my 6 and install them and do the PHH.
Also, I ordered and received my brake upgrade kit from Rock Auto. I went with the Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and their Evolution series pads. Prior to installing them I need to get a few things together 52mm socket, and the grease for bearings and knuckles.
Today I ordered my OME kit from Slee. It is nice having someone call you from the shop to assure you are getting the right kit. The OME 2.5" medium kit should be shipped out to me starting tomorrow.
As far as the install I feel comfortable after reading the installation instructions on Slee's site. But my concern is going to be the bolts on the rear socks. Of the people that have installed the lift on their own what did you do to loosen those bolts in the bottom of the shock and the angle plate?
I am thinking torch (heat) or liquid penetrating oil. If you used penetrating oil which did you use and why?
My stuff from Wit's End came in and I am definitely impressed with the product. I need to get off my 6 and install them and do the PHH.
Also, I ordered and received my brake upgrade kit from Rock Auto. I went with the Powerstop drilled/slotted rotors and their Evolution series pads. Prior to installing them I need to get a few things together 52mm socket, and the grease for bearings and knuckles.
Today I ordered my OME kit from Slee. It is nice having someone call you from the shop to assure you are getting the right kit. The OME 2.5" medium kit should be shipped out to me starting tomorrow.
As far as the install I feel comfortable after reading the installation instructions on Slee's site. But my concern is going to be the bolts on the rear socks. Of the people that have installed the lift on their own what did you do to loosen those bolts in the bottom of the shock and the angle plate?
I am thinking torch (heat) or liquid penetrating oil. If you used penetrating oil which did you use and why?
- Thread starter
- #47
I finally installed the brakes a few weeks ago but I am experiencing some slipping, it is similar to when your ABS kicks in. When it happens it pulls to right making me think it is the front left caliper that is the cause. Also when I did the brakes all the pistons were easy to push in. But when I got to the drivers front the pistons on the backside would be fighting each other. I am thinking there is air in the system and needs a brake bleeding bad.
Also, when I have a full tank and there is more weight in the rear I have noticed the issue is not as bad or constant. Makes me believe that there could be air in the ABS system and the LSPV is out of adjustment.
I have read a few threads here on mud talking about how hard it is to get ALL the air out of the ABS system, so after reading a good detailed write up I think I am going to remove the ABS and bypass the LSPV.
This is the write up I have read multiple times to make sure I know what I am doing and correctly: Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...
Yesterday was the last straw. I was tired of hearing the power steering pump moan as it was low on PS fluid and tired of buying more powering steering fluid. With the ONE day of cooler weather here in AZ yesterday I tore into the power steering. When I bought the LC a few weeks after I got the 2 low side hoses from Wits, they came in not long after ordering them.
But onto the install. I removed the 3 bolts holding the PS reservoir to the intake manifold and moved the hose clamps. Assuming the hoses were going to be like any other house of the make/construction I thought they would just slip right off. Damn was I wrong, so after about 2-5 minutes of wiggling and pulling with some pliers they did not come off. So I gave the PS reservoir I nice tug, both hoses cracked. 24 years can heat can do wonders to hoses, the original hoses were hard as rocks.
Eventually, I was able to get the hoses off the reservoir and the hard lines in the engine bay. The hoses I got from Wits were direct replacements and the correct length too making the install flawless. The only issue I ran into was getting the smaller hose started, could have been the weird angle but I got it. The system does not leak anymore which will be nice, but there is some residual fluid dripping down from the frame but some brake cleaner should solve the issue too.
While I was out working on the truck I got underneath and greased the slip joints on the drive shafts. Both were in some need of some grease, I filled until I saw them joints move a little. Wasn't sure how much to actually add so added till I saw them both move. Prior to adding any grease, I used to hear a loud clunk in the rear when coming to a stop, after adding the grease that sound is gone.
Around the same time, I bought the brakes and PHH and PS lines from Wits I bought the OME 2.5" med lift kit from Slee. I am going to return the caster bushings and install tool in exchange for the caster correction brackets. Eventually I want to get this suspension installed but I wanna tackle the brake issue first.
For those that have installed the OME 2.5 med kit, did you install drop brackets for your swaybars? I read that after doing the caster correction brackets the DL and the swaybar could come in contact. So I am a little concerned about installing the lift before getting the swaybar drop brackets.
While we are on the subject of swaybars does anyone make a QD swaybar disconnect for the rear? I know LandcruiserPhil makes some for the front but does anyone make some for the rear? If not I see people using the trailer ball pin, what size is everyone using and how do you tie the rear out of the way?
Also, when I have a full tank and there is more weight in the rear I have noticed the issue is not as bad or constant. Makes me believe that there could be air in the ABS system and the LSPV is out of adjustment.
I have read a few threads here on mud talking about how hard it is to get ALL the air out of the ABS system, so after reading a good detailed write up I think I am going to remove the ABS and bypass the LSPV.
This is the write up I have read multiple times to make sure I know what I am doing and correctly: Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...
Yesterday was the last straw. I was tired of hearing the power steering pump moan as it was low on PS fluid and tired of buying more powering steering fluid. With the ONE day of cooler weather here in AZ yesterday I tore into the power steering. When I bought the LC a few weeks after I got the 2 low side hoses from Wits, they came in not long after ordering them.
But onto the install. I removed the 3 bolts holding the PS reservoir to the intake manifold and moved the hose clamps. Assuming the hoses were going to be like any other house of the make/construction I thought they would just slip right off. Damn was I wrong, so after about 2-5 minutes of wiggling and pulling with some pliers they did not come off. So I gave the PS reservoir I nice tug, both hoses cracked. 24 years can heat can do wonders to hoses, the original hoses were hard as rocks.
Eventually, I was able to get the hoses off the reservoir and the hard lines in the engine bay. The hoses I got from Wits were direct replacements and the correct length too making the install flawless. The only issue I ran into was getting the smaller hose started, could have been the weird angle but I got it. The system does not leak anymore which will be nice, but there is some residual fluid dripping down from the frame but some brake cleaner should solve the issue too.
While I was out working on the truck I got underneath and greased the slip joints on the drive shafts. Both were in some need of some grease, I filled until I saw them joints move a little. Wasn't sure how much to actually add so added till I saw them both move. Prior to adding any grease, I used to hear a loud clunk in the rear when coming to a stop, after adding the grease that sound is gone.
Around the same time, I bought the brakes and PHH and PS lines from Wits I bought the OME 2.5" med lift kit from Slee. I am going to return the caster bushings and install tool in exchange for the caster correction brackets. Eventually I want to get this suspension installed but I wanna tackle the brake issue first.
For those that have installed the OME 2.5 med kit, did you install drop brackets for your swaybars? I read that after doing the caster correction brackets the DL and the swaybar could come in contact. So I am a little concerned about installing the lift before getting the swaybar drop brackets.
While we are on the subject of swaybars does anyone make a QD swaybar disconnect for the rear? I know LandcruiserPhil makes some for the front but does anyone make some for the rear? If not I see people using the trailer ball pin, what size is everyone using and how do you tie the rear out of the way?
- Thread starter
- #49
That is crazy it was that loud. All that work for nothing, just to pull it out again.
But onto my brake issue. As I figured it was an ABS related issue. After pulling the ABS fuse earlier this week I have been driving like that since I have not experienced the same issue since (left front caliper slipping/ABS slipping). So out comes the ABS light from the gauge cluster. I still will probably pull the ABS unit itself but now I am not in a hurry.
I do wanna check the bearings in the front hubs after the brake job and wanna make sure they are still within spec if not I will tighten them down again.
The next major job I want to get done is the lift.
Hey nice build thread. However please make sure you use ATF fluid in your ps pump!
The previous owner used regular ps fluid in mine and it moaned like a dying cow.
Exchanged right away with ATF and nearly quiet now. Maybe you meant ATF in your post.
The previous owner used regular ps fluid in mine and it moaned like a dying cow.
Exchanged right away with ATF and nearly quiet now. Maybe you meant ATF in your post.
- Thread starter
- #51
So since I used regular PS fluid how would I go about replacing it with ATF and what is the best one to use?
Thinking of pulling the larger low side off and let it drain out, I really do not want to pull the smaller low side off since it's location sucks.
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No worries, they came from the factory with clear/tan-ish fluid, likely power steering fluid. ATF is specified for replenishment, but many of us run hydraulic or PS fluid, with great results, seems to perform better than ATF.
ABS activating when close to stopping is often a dirty sensor. They are magnetic, so tend to pickup a fur ball of metal shavings, causing the error. Removing and wiping them off, often solves the problem.
- Thread starter
- #53
I will try that. I definitely like the way the pedal feels now.
- Thread starter
- #54
I finally got off my butt and installed my lift. I used a place in PHX off Glenrosa that rents out lifts and other small tools. The prices are higher then I am used to, Navy auto hobby shop (free).
It cost me about 100 total that included the cost of the lift, air tools, air hose and a couple of other tools that I had to borrow/rent.
The install took me about 3 hours from beginning to end. The only issue I ran into was the driver's side front shock. I didn't have the swivel I needed to make removing easy. What I did was put a wrench on the top nut and spin the shock with the use of pipe wrench.
But onto what everyone wants to see, pictures.
The first picture is a comparison of the rear springs. The apparent difference is the thickness of the coils themselves, but overall length is not much. The last picture is a comparison of before the lift with the BFG KO2 315/75-16 that I am still running.
It cost me about 100 total that included the cost of the lift, air tools, air hose and a couple of other tools that I had to borrow/rent.
The install took me about 3 hours from beginning to end. The only issue I ran into was the driver's side front shock. I didn't have the swivel I needed to make removing easy. What I did was put a wrench on the top nut and spin the shock with the use of pipe wrench.
But onto what everyone wants to see, pictures.
The first picture is a comparison of the rear springs. The apparent difference is the thickness of the coils themselves, but overall length is not much. The last picture is a comparison of before the lift with the BFG KO2 315/75-16 that I am still running.
- Thread starter
- #55
One thing I forgot to mention when it came to doing the lift was the ease the lower rear shock bolts came out. The shocks had were replaced once before, so I knew they weren't going to be too much of a pain.
But I did use a breaker bar just in case, but they did come out quickly. Also, the two bolts that hold the shock to the body of the LC came out reasonably easy too. It appears that there was anti-seize on the threads of all three also.
After finishing things up, I torqued everything to spec.
After driving it also for a little today and yesterday after the install, I have noticed a few things. When I use to come to a stop, there was a clunk in the rear, after greasing the drive lines sometime back that clunk was minimized, now that the suspension lift has been installed I haven't heard it.
When it came to adjusting the LSPV, I just unbolted it from the factory location instead of modifying the threaded portion on the axle. To keep the rod out of the way, I zip tied it up to the upper control arm. Doing so has increased the brake pedal pressure and holds the rod out of the way, so it does not bend as the upper control arm flexes. Also, it changes the brake pedal pressure as a load is applied to the rear.
When it comes to the breathers, I am going to be extending them at some point. When it comes to the front breather it makes it easy, just going to install either check valve or fuel line filter in the engine bay. As far as the rear I want to find the right spot up out of the way where I put the check valve/fuel line filter.
On my Xterra the filter is up behind the tail light, I haven't taken off the taillight on my LC yet to see if there is room to do something similar. But once I do this modification, I will detail that install here.
But I did use a breaker bar just in case, but they did come out quickly. Also, the two bolts that hold the shock to the body of the LC came out reasonably easy too. It appears that there was anti-seize on the threads of all three also.
After finishing things up, I torqued everything to spec.
After driving it also for a little today and yesterday after the install, I have noticed a few things. When I use to come to a stop, there was a clunk in the rear, after greasing the drive lines sometime back that clunk was minimized, now that the suspension lift has been installed I haven't heard it.
When it came to adjusting the LSPV, I just unbolted it from the factory location instead of modifying the threaded portion on the axle. To keep the rod out of the way, I zip tied it up to the upper control arm. Doing so has increased the brake pedal pressure and holds the rod out of the way, so it does not bend as the upper control arm flexes. Also, it changes the brake pedal pressure as a load is applied to the rear.
When it comes to the breathers, I am going to be extending them at some point. When it comes to the front breather it makes it easy, just going to install either check valve or fuel line filter in the engine bay. As far as the rear I want to find the right spot up out of the way where I put the check valve/fuel line filter.
On my Xterra the filter is up behind the tail light, I haven't taken off the taillight on my LC yet to see if there is room to do something similar. But once I do this modification, I will detail that install here.
Most people run the rear breather up into the front and tie them in together from what i have seen on here. I have a 2nd gen Xterra as well and haven't really looked into extending them on the 80 yet but would be nice to be able to do it somewhat similar.
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We terminate the rear stuff in the tool compartment over the fuel filler.
- Thread starter
- #58
We terminate the rear stuff in the tool compartment over the fuel filler.
Thanks for the idea @Tools R Us
- Thread starter
- #60
Well, I ordered some new parts today.
From Wits-End:
Front knuckle stud kit with socket
Magnetic drain plugs (differential)
54mm socket for hubs
Trail-Gear:
Knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings
Extended brake lines (frame to axle)
All those should be here next week. Hopefully, I will have a weekend off to rebuild the knuckles, install the knuckle studs, drain/fill the differentials and replace the SS brake lines (bleed as well).
One other thing I am looking at buying for the LC is that Koso temp gauge. I am going to order the adapter for the coolant house as I dont feel like taping the hose/fitting on the engine.
On Friday I am meeting up with @LandCruiserPhil to pick up the Delta VS pan hard bracket and the front sway bar disconnects. Hopefully, they are Gen 2 versions. Then I need to take my ass over to @Jgunner place and get the sliders he is selling and install those too.
Lastly, my lift kit came with the caster correction bushings from Slee. I have meant to send those back and get the caster correction plates. After installing the Delta VS panhard bracket and the caster correction brackets hopefully the handling will get better.
From Wits-End:
Front knuckle stud kit with socket
Magnetic drain plugs (differential)
54mm socket for hubs
Trail-Gear:
Knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings
Extended brake lines (frame to axle)
All those should be here next week. Hopefully, I will have a weekend off to rebuild the knuckles, install the knuckle studs, drain/fill the differentials and replace the SS brake lines (bleed as well).
One other thing I am looking at buying for the LC is that Koso temp gauge. I am going to order the adapter for the coolant house as I dont feel like taping the hose/fitting on the engine.
On Friday I am meeting up with @LandCruiserPhil to pick up the Delta VS pan hard bracket and the front sway bar disconnects. Hopefully, they are Gen 2 versions. Then I need to take my ass over to @Jgunner place and get the sliders he is selling and install those too.
Lastly, my lift kit came with the caster correction bushings from Slee. I have meant to send those back and get the caster correction plates. After installing the Delta VS panhard bracket and the caster correction brackets hopefully the handling will get better.
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