Builds Never ending build thread... (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OffRoadScott
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- 315/75r16 fzj80 ome trail gear
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- Thread starter
- #62
It has been nearly a month since I have updated this thread.
And I am sorry no pictures of this little install. A month or so ago I bought the sway bar disconnect and the @Delta VS panhard bracket from @LandCruiserPhil.
So today I finally got around to installing the swaybar disconnect. It was straightforward, just like Phil's excellent directions. After removing the bump stops on the frame things progressed. The bolts that hold the sway bar to the axle came off without any issues which I was surprised. The brackets (second generation) were a breeze to install.
Overall I am pleased with the quality of the brackets and the quality of hardware included.
I will hold off on installing the Delta VS panhard bracket till I can get in a garage and some taller jack stands.
Now onto the fun stuff...
After some conversations with @Jgunner and ZUK, I finally decided I am going to running 5.29s vs. 4.88s.
Both Ken and Justin added a lot of good insight as to why to run 5.29s. With the final weight of bumpers, winch, rack, camping gear, tools, etc. the extra RPMs will be nice and keep the LC in a better power band, and I won't have to take it out of OD as often. ZUK was telling me at 70 MPH he is at 2500 RPM running 5.29s, not much higher then I am with the factory gearing at 70 MPH.
Hopefully, with mechanically restored power my mileage will increase, and I will be in a better power band.
My new setup in a few months will be 5.29s front and rear with the Harrop locker in the back. ZUK said I should have enough traction with this setup that a front locker is not needed, but I am still on the fence about not having a front locker. Difference between the 2, 1300 dollars. $1300 is a lot of money that I can use on something else.
And I am sorry no pictures of this little install. A month or so ago I bought the sway bar disconnect and the @Delta VS panhard bracket from @LandCruiserPhil.
So today I finally got around to installing the swaybar disconnect. It was straightforward, just like Phil's excellent directions. After removing the bump stops on the frame things progressed. The bolts that hold the sway bar to the axle came off without any issues which I was surprised. The brackets (second generation) were a breeze to install.
Overall I am pleased with the quality of the brackets and the quality of hardware included.
I will hold off on installing the Delta VS panhard bracket till I can get in a garage and some taller jack stands.
Now onto the fun stuff...
After some conversations with @Jgunner and ZUK, I finally decided I am going to running 5.29s vs. 4.88s.
Both Ken and Justin added a lot of good insight as to why to run 5.29s. With the final weight of bumpers, winch, rack, camping gear, tools, etc. the extra RPMs will be nice and keep the LC in a better power band, and I won't have to take it out of OD as often. ZUK was telling me at 70 MPH he is at 2500 RPM running 5.29s, not much higher then I am with the factory gearing at 70 MPH.
Hopefully, with mechanically restored power my mileage will increase, and I will be in a better power band.
My new setup in a few months will be 5.29s front and rear with the Harrop locker in the back. ZUK said I should have enough traction with this setup that a front locker is not needed, but I am still on the fence about not having a front locker. Difference between the 2, 1300 dollars. $1300 is a lot of money that I can use on something else.
If you plan on putting your 37" tires to the test(assuming you are running 37 do to 5.29) you will want the front locker. Rarely do I use my front locker but the few times I have I was very happy to have it. The decision for me would be based on the trails I plan on running and if I normally wheel with a group. Most times you want/need a front locker you are in a s*** situation and adrenaline is present. In this case I want as much control as possible but in many cases if you are in a group you have others to winch from or add safety by strapping you.
- Thread starter
- #64
Makes sense @LandCruiserPhil I am still up in the air about adding the front locker. The nice thing is the Harrops are electric (sure everyone already knows that) more straightforward to install and do not have to worry about an airline being pinched or breaking (nothing against ARB). It also is the money that keeps me a little apprehensive about the front locker, but the overall feeling/knowing if I am in a S*** situation and alone the front could be beneficial to me.
As far as tire size I am not running 37s just yet. I am running BFG KO2 in 315/75-16.
- Thread starter
- #65
Well I did a thing today...
With the line of work that I am in it has allowed me to get a few guns free and/or cheap. With one of the Glock 19x I had I decided to trade it for some new goodies for the Land Cruiser.
With the line of work that I am in it has allowed me to get a few guns free and/or cheap. With one of the Glock 19x I had I decided to trade it for some new goodies for the Land Cruiser.
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- Thread starter
- #66
Along with the bumper I also got these too...
- Thread starter
- #67
After getting my Trail Gear bumper from @Jgunner I ordered a chicomm LED light bar from Amazon and a wiring harness. I paid $50 for the 30" light bar and wiring harness. In the past, I have had a led light bar stolen from the front of my Xterra. So to slow/stop future thieves I tapped the screw holes for 1/4" security screws. The security screws are the same ones that you see used on bathroom stalls. The wiring harnesses with the rocker switches were a little more then I was willing to spend or had on my gift card, so I got the cheap small red one and installed it were the manual throttle goes.
Here are some pictures of the light bar on the bumper.
With the wet weather lately here in AZ my right O2 sensor wiring has been getting wet. The first experience I had with it getting wet was a couple weeks ago when we had the remnants of a hurricane that crossed over Baja Mexico, Mexico and into AZ. We got heavy rain and wind. With the rain there was a lot of standing water. I hit a puddle and shortly there after the LC was running rough. I assumed it was the TPS as it did the same thing when I watched the engine bay. So after doing some research and pulling the code 26 from the ECU I discovered that the right O2 sensor can get wet and when it does that it will cause issues like I was experiencing. So I unplugged the O2 and dirt fell out. I allowed it to air dry and cleaned off the male terminals on the connector.
This morning after some rain and sitting for a day I went to drive the LC again and it was running rough. So I went to Autozone and got some Permatex Dielectric grease, after disconnecting the TPS and O2 I allowing them to dry out I applied the dielectric grease. Once I applied the grease I started the LC up and she ran without issues.
Here are some pictures of the light bar on the bumper.
With the wet weather lately here in AZ my right O2 sensor wiring has been getting wet. The first experience I had with it getting wet was a couple weeks ago when we had the remnants of a hurricane that crossed over Baja Mexico, Mexico and into AZ. We got heavy rain and wind. With the rain there was a lot of standing water. I hit a puddle and shortly there after the LC was running rough. I assumed it was the TPS as it did the same thing when I watched the engine bay. So after doing some research and pulling the code 26 from the ECU I discovered that the right O2 sensor can get wet and when it does that it will cause issues like I was experiencing. So I unplugged the O2 and dirt fell out. I allowed it to air dry and cleaned off the male terminals on the connector.
This morning after some rain and sitting for a day I went to drive the LC again and it was running rough. So I went to Autozone and got some Permatex Dielectric grease, after disconnecting the TPS and O2 I allowing them to dry out I applied the dielectric grease. Once I applied the grease I started the LC up and she ran without issues.
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- Thread starter
- #68
I know it been a while since I have updated this build thread. Recently thanks to @Spamcheese he and I swapped springs. He got my 851 shocks and he also installed an aluminum spacer and I got his 850J with shocks. After doing my lift my standard hydraulic jack is useless, so I used the forklift at work to lift the front end and then set it on a pair of 12-ton jacks.
- Thread starter
- #69
Then I got around to installing the knuckle studs. On the passenger side, there was one missing, one finger tight. The driver's side had all the original style studs but did not have the torq style tip to them. So I had to use the "2 nut" approach, no pun intended. I did use locktite of varied styles and strengths to keep things snug.
For some odd reason, I am not able to upload pictures that I took. But we all know how they look or how they should look.
For some odd reason, I am not able to upload pictures that I took. But we all know how they look or how they should look.
- Thread starter
- #70
For Christmas, my parent sent me some money via PayPal. I found a good deal on a CDL switch from @AlbertoSD. The switch was from Slee and came in its original packaging.
The switch arrived today I took me longer to open up the box than to install it. I did function test and made sure it worked which it did. But now onto pictures.
Yes, I know my vents are dirty and my heater/AC controls suck. I eventually want to replace the heater/AC controls and have a professional detail the Land Cruiser. But I need to get other things done first.
The switch arrived today I took me longer to open up the box than to install it. I did function test and made sure it worked which it did. But now onto pictures.
Yes, I know my vents are dirty and my heater/AC controls suck. I eventually want to replace the heater/AC controls and have a professional detail the Land Cruiser. But I need to get other things done first.
