Need your input - would you buy a rear storage drawer "kit"

Would you buy a high quality, basic rear drawer system if:


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I have an 2006 100 Series LX470 that i would be installing it into. I can take some pictures of the back, but I wouldn't know what to tell you were changes from other years.
 
I'm an 80 owner, but voted like I was a 100 owner. Just like to say that cutting corners to save $ will get you in the end. You get what you pay for in the drawer kit world. I went with Outback Solutions several years back and have no regrets. But, I for one, appreciate what you're doing here. I don't have the tools to build what I wanted and suffered with my home built attempts before getting a quality setup. Kudos...:cheers:
 
@Live to Ski I learned long ago when working in/with China in the consumer electronics market that you can't stop copying, all you can do is get in early, sell, then plan the next product or to get out.

To comments about material costs - totally agreed, and my initial budget (next to nil) was what forced me to be creative in my designs and why I think I have something worth sharing;) I've benefited from my experience as a designer and engineer, as well as my brother's input who is a mechanical engineer and designs things all day long, so even though this is targeted as a low cost system it is NOT low quality: when you grab the front and try to wiggle it the entire truck moves, and there are zero rattles on trail. Final thought on costs- I saw a kickstarter that had "transparent pricing" where they showed exactly where all the money went, and thought it was a cool idea I would do here (assuming enough interest) so you can see for yourself what cost what.

For those offering to beta - can you say what year/type you would be installing into?

And if anyone has had several different year 100's can you comment if they changed the back side panels or rear seat bolt holes during the run? (stretch question I know)

Finally, any LX owners in or near Bend, OR that can help me measure/test fitment?


2000 LX470
 
I'm an 80 owner, but voted like I was a 100 owner. Just like to say that cutting corners to save $ will get you in the end. You get what you pay for in the drawer kit world. I went with Outback Solutions several years back and have no regrets. But, I for one, appreciate what you're doing here. I don't have the tools to build what I wanted and suffered with my home built attempts before getting a quality setup. Kudos...:cheers:
Thx, appreciated;)
And agreed on getting what you pay for. That is why I'm taking the stripped back, basic approach to keep cost low instead of cutting material costs. If folks want fridge slides have at it, I think of these drawers as a "starting point"...
 
yes, I don't mind spending money on something if it's a foundation or can be expanded on later. Dropping $$ for something that ends up being a temporary fix or one time use is just plain stupid.
 
A good DIY base to build from would have me sold. I have been doodling a 2 drawer system for my '99 that would match the height of the middle seat folded flat. My rough cost calculations have exceeded $400 and I have no idea if my design would work well in the field. Being able to purchase a tested and proven design for $600 would be perfect for me. I'm sure the Midwest is out of your 'beta zone', but I'd be interested in helping out your process.
 
Not to add complexity, but I'd likely be interested if it is possible to build the system in 'halves', whereby one could leave one rear seat in the truck while still using 1/2 of the drawer system.

^^^^this 100% i have to keep one seat in the back at all times.
 
@Live to Ski And if anyone has had several different year 100's can you comment if they changed the back side panels or rear seat bolt holes during the run? (stretch question I know)
I look forward to seeing your design. The rear seat mounts and lower side panels are all the same for 00-07 LC's and 98-07 LX's. 98LC's don't have rear AC and hence gain 2" of interior space on the right rear panel. Some '99 LC's don't have rear AC. And then there seems to be a few rare birds that don't have 3rd row seats at all, and hence no mounts.
 
I've spent a LOT of time building my drawer set and then redesigning it in order to meet new needs as well as managing weight and use of available space! Just like @AimCOtaco I started building mine when Trekboxx was on prototype phase and many had shared ideas as how to go about the building.
I did not want to keep track of the cost (on purpose) but I know it was not cheap! I don't think it's possible to acomplish sturdy, good fit, light weight, visibly appealing, somewhat cheap while using good quality hardware, easy install/removal, possible rearrenging of the halves and so on! These are things we all desire but there's just no way to get it all! You gotta give up on some to get the others and what usually happens is the price moving up as the wish list gets crossed!
For the entrepreneur side of the deal I wish you the best but know this is a hard spot to be since drawers are a very personal type product where each customer will want something a bit different!
 
As I told in PM a while ago, I would be very interested in a kit. Especially if it can be "personalized" after install. Either way, consider me in for beta.
 
When working out pricing, keep in mind a nice double drawer set that fits the LC can be had for less than $350, including shipping, from Amazon. They are not custom, but sometimes price is more important than a perfect fit.
 
A one piece unit would be a PITA and expensive to ship because of the top and bottoms. No?

If can be kept to ~$50 shipped as mentioned in the OP, I can deal with a one piece.
 
cruzerDave: Noting that your team is comprised of trained engineers (I am one as well), I assume that any design you come up with would be parametericly (is that a word?) based. This may allow you to easily adopt the design to other vehicle make/models, thus widening your market.

Plus this would facilitate kit fab (laser cutting, cnc based wood working, etc.).

'course this would drive up costs on the front end (design), but good design ain't cheep to get.

On a negative note: Engineers can really complicate things:doh:
 
@Sandroad can you provide a link? I'm real curious to see it - honestly if I had known such a beast existed I might not have embarked down this path as it has been a lot of work!

@Live to Ski one of my friends at work who also has a knack for building things has been providing feedback and owns a JK - so yes what I've been cobbling together here has already been talked about jumping platforms;) And yes there will be waterjet-CNC'd parts in this, good guess! It's the only way to minimize my time for this (this is not my day job) and maintain the accuracy needed for average Joe to assemble in his garage on a Saturday, and have things come out square (not trivial if you're not experienced)
 
if its simple I think most would say/think I can build that for cheap ?
I think if its more complex multi level etc.. its harder to build that so tend to buy it if reasonable but doing super custom work is to expensive to buy and then people build there own often maybe not as good as custom but they are happy

IMHO the market could be in-between the simple cheap and the over complex

two side drawers with simple pull out shelf and room for the fridge and arb slide so they can pay for the slide but measured for the arb one would be what I would do if I were to build things out

I like the drifta stuff that runs on teflon over slides since IMHO they can eat into the space and again KISS and would be cheaper to produce
 
Here's one example I found a while ago when searching Amazon for something like drawers. This is neither custom nor perfect, but could be modified/strengthened for specific needs.

https://www.amazon.com/Elkhart-Plas...F8&qid=1466903644&sr=8-1&keywords=suv+drawers
Sorry, and no disrespect intended, but plastic will end up breaking. And really, how are you going to strengthen it? Maybe if you're going to only hang on to your rig for a couple of years, but not for the long run. The environment of an off road rig is extreme, both temps and vibration. Baking in the sun or winter's bitter temps, not to mention how just sunlight breaks down nylon. Then add washboard roads & the twisting the frame and body go through crawling around in the rocks loaded down with all your gear. A steel frame works better. Plastic and wood are cheaper and lighter, but can't hold up for long when you subject them to the extremes while carrying the weight of your heavy cargo....jacks, chains, tools...etc. And plastic always seems to break at the worst time - like dumping your sockets or wrenches into the snow or mud. BTDT....food for thought :cheers:
 
Please count me in as a beta test volunteer. 2003 LC. And I'm in the Seattle and would travel for install.
 

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