Need help with belt replacements. (1 Viewer)

[HWG09]

Been searching the boards on here and found some good threads that are a few years old so thought I'd just post this instead of reviving an old one.

I'm down to one alternator/fan belt and the one I have is cracked and missing tread so it's pretty much done.

I was going to do them myself but have gotten stumped a few times. First I need to remove the A/C belt on the bottom. I unscrewed the tension bolt on the bottom but still wasn't much slack (at least not enough to pull it off).

Assuming I can get that off I know I have to loosen the two bolts under the alternator to get those belts off but what about the fan? Do I simply slip the belt over the fan onto the assembly? I tried removing the bolts on the fan but my wrench just turned the entire unit instead of the nuts.

Sorry it's pretty rudimentary of me but I'm close to selling the truck so don't want to spend $150 at the shop to replace when I can do it in an hour if I can get some guidance.

Pics or diagrams would be much appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Corbet]

I remove my fan. The 4 bolts need kind of an "impact" to get them to break loose. Give the wrench a quick jerk and they normally pop loose. Otherwise you'll need to get creative with what you have to hold the fan hub in place.

 

[86tuning]

You can thread the belts around the fan.

The alternator adjuster bolt may be easier to reach if you remove the battery tray.

I manage to reach it with either an air ratchet and a swivel socket, or else a short ratcheting wrench. If you're careful you can actually tweak the power steering pipes slightly to make a bit of room for tools.

 

[inkpot]

I don't remove the fan. I use a stubby 3/8 ratchet and socket to loosen the lock bolt for the alternator, then I reach thru the soft apron/skirting below the metal fender, above the frame, from the driver's fenderwell. I use a 1/4" drive extension and it is pretty easy to release the tension on the belts. Running a very juiced up fan clutch seems to reduce the belt life to about 2 years, so I am getting a lot of practice.

John

 

[HWG09]

Well I gave up and took the truck to the shop and it's probably a good thing I did. The belts they got for replacements were too small, then they got some that were too big. I checked my records and the belts had been replaced a little over a year ago and one is already gone and the other frayed and since none of the belts fit today I'm inclined to think the idler pulley (which has been replaced) is the wrong size.

Hopefully it gets sorted tomorrow and I don't get charged and arm and a leg.

 

[John E Davies]

Make SURE they don't install toothed belts or you will be back the next day complaining of the whine. OEM belts are best, and they are quite cheap.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

 

[Corbet]

Make SURE they don't install toothed belts or you will be back the next day complaining of the whine. OEM belts are best, and they are quite cheap.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

What he said. I just put new ones on every spring. They are really that cheap.

 

[dales33]

Make SURE they don't install toothed belts or you will be back the next day complaining of the whine. OEM belts are best, and they are quite cheap.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

i learned that the hard way, i might have to cop the $45.00 cost because i just assumed a good brand of after market belt as i used on my 350's ect in the past.
ill call toyota and get a price.
my mrs isn't to happy, I've spent a few thousand on my old girl in the last month or so lol, she's thinks its a waste, go figure.

 

[ElPolloBlanco]

Make SURE they don't install toothed belts or you will be back the next day complaining of the whine. OEM belts are best, and they are quite cheap.

John Davies
Spokane WA USA

This is gold. I had to use ribbed belts in an emergancy (blew a belt driving through Yosemite and thankfully found some in Lee Vining) and they suck. The belts are insanely easy to change loosen the a/c tension pulley all the way pull the belt off. Loosen the alt bolts top and bottom. I then grab some extensions (2 feet should work maybe more) and go through the drivers wheel well. If I was home I'd take photos. But pull the front 2 or 3 clips off that hold the barrier thing on and pull it back put socket with extension on top of the steering gear box and weave it all the way onto the tension bolt head and loosen it all the way off. Then take the belts off. I've got belts down to about 10-20 minutes. Do everything else in reverse to complete the task.

 

[ppc]

Well I gave up and took the truck to the shop and it's probably a good thing I did. The belts they got for replacements were too small, then they got some that were too big. I checked my records and the belts had been replaced a little over a year ago and one is already gone and the other frayed and since none of the belts fit today I'm inclined to think the idler pulley (which has been replaced) is the wrong size.

Hopefully it gets sorted tomorrow and I don't get charged and arm and a leg.

That sounds like they may have routed the belts incorrectly over the idler pulley instead of against it. That would account for the need to get a longer belt.

 

[inkpot]

That sounds like they may have routed the belts incorrectly over the idler pulley instead of against it. That would account for the need to get a longer belt.

That would be a real good guess. Actually, a lot of rigs around here have tossed the extra pulley. All it does is dampen the vibration of the belts on the looser side. They run fine for years without the extra pulley and you can run either style of belt without noise issues. John

 

[OGBeno]

OEM belt set is less than $20 with discount from a reputable source.

 

[BCR4619]

OEM belt set is less than $20 with discount from a reputable source.

Always like how you word things, makes me chuckle every time.