Need Clarification on FZJ80 4x4 System (2 Viewers)

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Thanks Slim...Aussie locker sounds kinda interesting, I thought it was ARB air locker or nothing.

ARB air lockers and factory E-lockers are manually switched on/off.

Aussie lockers and other "lunchbox lockers" (there are many makes) basically are set up so that either wheel can turn faster than the power source, but neither wheel can turn slower than the power source.

With the center diff unlocked, the behavior of the rear diff is irrelevant. You will hear it make a ratchet click when you back out of a parking space while turning, for example, but otherwise it's pretty much invisible until you lock the center diff.

With the center diff locked, both rear wheels will turn at the same speed as the fastest turning front wheel. Which is not ideal, but way the hell better than nothing.

Budget builds with a rear auto-locker and a front switchable locker are not uncommon. It's rare that you really need to lock the front, though.
 
Scott/Slim...My bad...I have only had it about a month and you're right...the shifter looks as if it's in the N position, but it's actually in Hi. That makes waaay more sense. Thanks guys!
 
Other than the ratchet sound, is there any disadvantage to the Aussie locker...especially when navigating through snow?
 
OK...that is my LC's primary use is for winter only driving, so it's best to just leave it as is...right?
 
Claudia...It's a "ETC" button, I think it's for towing not traction (still learning).
 
my guess is that he means the ECT switch, which just changes the shift points on the transmission.

seemed to feel better with that switched on when i was towing my buddy's '99 beetle. *shrug*
 
Now I'm talking to your truck...I meant DSRTRDR
 
ECT button delays the upshift to the next gear on your automatic transmission

so, you get off the light faster than that illegally websurfing person in the vehicle next to you

it has nothing to do with traction control or lockers, sorry - that said, I really like it in town to get away from the idiots
 
It seems like this has been explained to the satisfaction of the OP but there's several good links in the FAQ on this very topic. I'm actually surprised this got to page 2 without a reference to the FAQ.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=1012338&postcount=4

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http://www.lcool.org/technical/diffs/diffs.html

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/differential.htm

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/12828-differences-4wd-awd-full-time-4wd.html
 
4HI unlocked is basically what most people call all-wheel drive.

Which means that you are driving with one wheel on the front and the opposite wheel on the rear at any given time, and it can switch back and forth in no time flat.

On this comment, I'd just like to point out that with open diffs front and rear, there is no rhyme or reason which tire is getting power on one axle vs. the other axle. In 4hi unlocked (AWD) you have power going to any one wheel at any one time. Once you lock the center diff (4x4), the power will go to whichever tire has the least amount of traction on each axle. You could be getting power to the LF and LR, or the LF and RR, or RF and RR, the axles don't know what the other is doing.
 
Here's an excerpt from a breakdown I posted in another related thread:

Welcome!!:flipoff2: (official welcome of the 80 forum:rolleyes:)

Briefly, the 80 is always in 4wd (hence the lousy fuel mileage:crybaby:) which actually means that ONE wheel per axle is applying power to the ground. If your rig has locking differentials (it helps when you post info and pics of your rig), then your next "gearing option" that will provide more traction, is to actuate the "center diff locking switch" on the dash. That's the button with the center diff shown as a white dot. This locks a "viscous coupling" in the transfer case, which evenly splits the power betx the front and rear axles, but still to only ONE wheel per axle.

If you don't have this switch, you can buy one and install it easily ($55) and the plug is already there behind the dash. This allows you to lock your center diff while still in high range. If you don't have the switch, locking the center diff is accomplished by shifting your transfer case lever into low range.

Your next increment of traction control, is to lock the rear differential with the coveted rotary diff lock switch, just to the left of the steering wheel on the dash. You DO have that switch, don't you?;) Now you've got power to 3 wheels. Lock the front diff, and you've got power to all four, but then steering is really heavy, as you've locked out the spider gears from allowing "slippage" (the ability of your tires to rotate at different speeds) on your front axle. Front diff lock is only used (usually) when moving straight forward or backward.

Spend some time on the snow, mud, dirt or other slippery surface, not asphalt, locking and unlocking your diffs. This "excercise" done regularly is good for them...keeps them from seizing up.
To sum up, I have the ability to lock one, two, or all three of my diffs, in either low or high range.

The 2nd gear button is typically used when you are in low range, and applying power from a stop causes tire spin on slippery surfaces, so starting out in 2nd gear allows torque from an auto tranny to be applied more gradually, to "tickle" yourself out of a low traction situation, where starting out in 1st gear would just cause tire spin.

Hope this helps!! (HTH:))
 
which actually means that ONE wheel per axle is applying power to the ground. (HTH:))

Why do people keep saying this? I get what you're inferring but I think it's confusing and not entirely accurate. Isn't this only the case if one side of the axle has different levels of resistance? If you put your truck on jack stands (equal resistance on all 4 wheels) and put it in drive you're telling me only one wheel per axle would move? That doesn't sound right.
 
Patrick, now take your hand and stop one wheel, it will stop easily and the wheel with no force will continue to spin. Now if you "lock" those wheels together yes they will continue to spin together, if not the power goes to the wheel with the least resistance, if that wheel is in the air or sitting on ice it is the only wheel on that axle moving.
 
If there's NO break in traction at any wheel, both wheels per axle will transfer power to the ground. There's no default 'one-wheel-drive per axle'.
IF there's NO break in traction at any wheel, and there's differential wheel speed because the vehicle is driving along a curve, there will be power to all wheels, just not the same amount to inside vs. outside, and not the same amount to front vs. back - that's what differentials do.
If you've got one wheel on ice, and the other three on pavement, you'll get to move - until that one wheel on ice will break traction. And then, and only then, all the power will go to that wheel. Not before, and not per default.
 
Patrick, now take your hand and stop one will, it will stop easily and the wheel with no force will continue to spin. Now if you "lock" those wheels together yes they will continue to spin together, if not the power goes to the wheel with the least resistance, if that wheel is in the air or sitting on ice it is the only wheel on that axle moving.

I get that unequal resistance in an open diff will result in the wheel with less resistance spinning and the other not. My point was, if there's equal resistance, like when all 4 wheels are on dry pavement, or in my example, both sides of the axle will receive equal power.
 
Technically, even if one wheel is on ice and the other is on pavement, both wheels receive the exact same amount of power, but the total amount the engine produces is limited because there's less load.

I think that's getting out of the realm of this thread though.
 
Yes but the resistance on ice or in the air means the torque to the wheel is very near zero so the exact same amount is applied to the opposite wheel, very near zero. But really the question is what will be the best for this guy that wants to drive his truck in the snow. lol.
 

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