Need advice on sequence of work on my cruiser (1 Viewer)

[Jorgito]

Hello,

I need help from you guys, I have a bunch of stuff accumulated for next month to work on before we go for long road trip. Here is the list:

• harrop installed front third member with new gears (regeared to 4.88)
• aussie locker installed rear third member with new gears (regeared to 4.88)
• new brake hoses (all of them - seven ? )
• new brake calipers (all of them)
• new brake pads and rotors
• new bushings (all of them front arms, panhard, rear panhard, rear lower, rear upper)
• change of the power steering pump
• Rodney flush of ATF

I just look for help what do you think should be the sequence of doing the changes. I think that the gears should go ASAP as I will have only month before going for the trip and need to break in new gears. When I do the gears and will have the hubs out it would be best time to change the rotors and calipers.

What I am afraid is to do a lot of changes in one run then screwing up something and not being sure what is the culprit of the issue. Other issue is time pressure as I will have only month to do all the work. I just hope to put 500 miles for break in of new pinion and ring gear.

gear installs

• Jorgito
• Mar 15, 2017

gear installs

• Jorgito
• Mar 14, 2017

gear installs

• Jorgito
• Mar 11, 2017

Thanks,

Jorge

 

[ewillis]

I would go in the order of your bullet points. .seems reasonable to me

 

[Jorgito]

Question: can I combine the gears break in with the new brakes break in procedure? Sorry but this is my very first time doing such thing.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

You can do the brakes and thirds at the same time but I wouldn't. I would err on the side of caution. Here is An idea for you, change your brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors, go through the burnishing process with your new pads and rotors. Make sure there are no new noises or issues. As soon as that is done then you can swap your thirds without worries. I know you end up taking the front hubs off twice this way, but Realistically you should be able to do this all in one long day of work, I have. Once that portion is done you should do your bushings, remember on the front upper bushings to leave the bolts loose until the truck is on the ground under its own weight and then tighten them. Leave all of the rear arm bolts loose until the truck is on the ground under its own weight and then tighten them. Once the bushings are in, drive it and check for new noises. Then change the Power steering and flush the Transmission.

 

[Jorgito]

You can do the brakes and thirds at the same time but I wouldn't. I would err on the side of caution. Here is An idea for you, change your brake lines, calipers, pads and rotors, go through the burnishing process with your new pads and rotors. Make sure there are no new noises or issues. As soon as that is done then you can swap your thirds without worries. I know you end up taking the front hubs off twice this way, but Realistically you should be able to do this all in one long day of work, I have. Once that portion is done you should do your bushings, remember on the front upper bushings to leave the bolts loose until the truck is on the ground under its own weight and then tighten them. Leave all of the rear arm bolts loose until the truck is on the ground under its own weight and then tighten them. Once the bushings are in, drive it and check for new noises. Then change the Power steering and flush the Transmission.

Thanks, I think that this is the right direction.

Jorge

 

[Rifleman]

Jorgito, you might want to rethink your transmission flush. You can do a search here on Mud, but if i remember right, due to the age of these trucks a transmission flush is not recommended. It has something to do with removing the buildup of varnish inside the transmission. Most guys just drain the fluid, trying to get as much out as they can. Then in a few weeks they change the fluid again, this time getting more of the old fluid out. Done a few times, that'll get all the old fluid out. YMMV

 

[Hornd]

Stopping is most important (Brake Work), Closely followed by Steering(Change Pwr Steering Pump).
Going is next important (Tranny Flush).
Then do Suspension and Regear.

 

[Jorgito]

Jorgito, you might want to rethink your transmission flush. You can do a search here on Mud, but if i remember right, due to the age of these trucks a transmission flush is not recommended. It has something to do with removing the buildup of varnish inside the transmission. Most guys just drain the fluid, trying to get as much out as they can. Then in a few weeks they change the fluid again, this time getting more of the old fluid out. Done a few times, that'll get all the old fluid out. YMMV

It's not flush per se, there is no pressure applied. Rodney flush has been discussed many times before and conclusion is that it's not harmful.

 

[Jorgito]

Stopping is most important (Brake Work), Closely followed by Steering(Change Pwr Steering Pump).
Going is next important (Tranny Flush).
Then do Suspension and Regear.

I understand but I need also time to break in new gears which is 500 miles of not going too hard. Given that I have just June to do that..

 

[Heckraiser]

Is this your daily driver? Do you have access to another car or can you take the bus?

If so, I'd do brakes and axles all in one weekend and then do the rest of the items as you have time, leaving the bushings till last (these can be done one suspension arm at a time with the truck on the ground). I have always used the racecar brake bedding procedure (multiple hard stops from 50mph not quite coming to a complete stop) and it works fine, and you don't have to worry about break-in time, done in 5 minutes!

But in all honesty, under a time crunch like that, I'd just get to work and not worry about the order. Obviously, gears are the only thing that will need a proper break in, so make sure that is one of the first steps.

 

[Jorgito]

Is this your daily driver? Do you have access to another car or can you take the bus?

If so, I'd do brakes and axles all in one weekend and then do the rest of the items as you have time, leaving the bushings till last (these can be done one suspension arm at a time with the truck on the ground). I have always used the racecar brake bedding procedure (multiple hard stops from 50mph not quite coming to a complete stop) and it works fine, and you don't have to worry about break-in time, done in 5 minutes!

But in all honesty, under a time crunch like that, I'd just get to work and not worry about the order. Obviously, gears are the only thing that will need a proper break in, so make sure that is one of the first steps.

Thanks for the reply, I really like the approach from @LandCruisinMy93 , if I do both brakes and gears it would be too much at one go and if something goes wrong it would be difficult to troubleshoot.