Nakamichi Update - '99 LX 470 (2 Viewers)

[dbfw]

I have followed @steppecruiser 's guide and it has been very helpful. I have the RCA cables crimped and ready to go, but before I go installing my Pioneer AVH-2550NEX I want to make sure that I am understanding the part where pin 5 and 14 need to be wired together to the control wire on the new head unit... I assume that I just need a butt connector around the terminal??

I just did this with a Pioneer DMH-2660NEX last year and had the same question. On the newer head units, the separate antenna control wire has gone away, likely due to the lack of newer vehicles with power antennas that need to be controlled. Yes, I connected the blue/white from the Pioneer Harness to both pins 5 and 14 on the LX harness. I accomplished this with a butt connector by inserting the Pioneer blue/white in one end, and then the leads going to pins 5 and 14 together in the other end. You might need to go one size up on connector and strip extra length on the blue/white Pioneer end and double it back on itself to get the proper gauge to make sure you have a nice tight crimp at both ends.

With this setup, the antenna extends as soon as the head unit powers up, and remains extended until it powers down, regardless of input source. Other than that, everything will work as expected.

Edit: I'm a bit confused by your reference to a butt connector around the "terminal" Are you making the custom harness using the Lexus 90980-11503 connector, like this:

 

[AlBill13]

@dbfw you answered my question! Thank you. I guess I was reading into the other instructions where it said to depin the 5 and 14 pin and wire those around the custom made connector. But it looks like you achieved the same result and left the pins in place. I like your method better. Hope to have it installed in the next couple days.

 

[yj668]

Here you can see the awesome resource @RobRed put together showing us all the connections for the LX w/ Nakamichi 22-pin connector:

Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

(My notes will probably only make sense if you make one of the connectors I detail below)

View attachment 1728554

Anyone knows if wire 14 is also black/red on the end that gets wired into the stock amp?

 

[PabloCruise]

Anyone knows if wire 14 is also black/red on the end that gets wired into the stock amp?

So sorry, I do not!
An FSM might have this wire diagram?

 

[Ricekidd]

I just did this wiring setup on my 99 LX with my Alpine. After installing everything and getting it work, I noticed my sub isn’t working? Am I missing something? Thanks!

 

[dbfw]

I just did this wiring setup on my 99 LX with my Alpine. After installing everything and getting it work, I noticed my sub isn’t working? Am I missing something? Thanks!

I wouldn't think so, if you followed the instructions in this thread to use the pre-outs on your Alpine feeding the stock amp, I believe the crossover is within the factory amp and the sub should still work normally.

I will note, if you're using the Alpine to stream Pandora, Spotify, etc. I notice the sub less as with the compression applied to the audio stream, there just isn't that much dynamic range in the signal. If I instead play files directly from my iPhone, I'll notice it much more as the bitrate is way higher.

 

[Ricekidd]

I wouldn't think so, if you followed the instructions in this thread to use the pre-outs on your Alpine feeding the stock amp, I believe the crossover is within the factory amp and the sub should still work normally.

I will note, if you're using the Alpine to stream Pandora, Spotify, etc. I notice the sub less as with the compression applied to the audio stream, there just isn't that much dynamic range in the signal. If I instead play files directly from my iPhone, I'll notice it much more as the bitrate is way higher.

thanks for the info! makes sense now.

 

[Agent T]

This thread is an awesome resource. Thank you to all who have contributed. I'm in the process of adding an Alpine iLX-w650 to my 2000 LX470 and I'm working on building the Lexus 22 slot connector. However, after reading the entire thread, I still can't determine if there was a good solution to build my own connector pins or if it is just better to purchase the overly priced pre-built ones from Toyota at $6.50 each? Most of the posts I found indicated there was issues building ones that will fit as they get deformed during the crimping process. Please let me know if I missed something. If there are better fitting pins and a good crimping tool to purchase.

 

[shtbrwn86]

This thread is an awesome resource. Thank you to all who have contributed. I'm in the process of adding an Alpine iLX-w650 to my 2000 LX470 and I'm working on building the Lexus 22 slot connector. However, after reading the entire thread, I still can't determine if there was a good solution to build my own connector pins or if it is just better to purchase the overly priced pre-built ones from Toyota at $6.50 each? Most of the posts I found indicated there was issues building ones that will fit as they get deformed during the crimping process. Please let me know if I missed something. If there are better fitting pins and a good crimping tool to purchase.

If you have a good crimping tool then you can make them yourself. But it has the be the right tool. The $30 one I bought on Amazon didn’t work. I can’t remember exactly but I think the right crimper was close to $70! Normally I’d rather spend the money on the tool and get to have a tool but in this case the tool was sooooo specific I just couldn’t justify it so I bought the cables.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

@shtbrwn86 is correct. I bought the tool at I like to use OEM plugs as much as possible and makes the crimps perfect. I did find a source for the terminals and have bunch extra if anyone needs. I'll also look up the source and part numbers for everyone later today.

 

[Agent T]

@shtbrwn86 is correct. I bought the tool at I like to use OEM plugs as much as possible and makes the crimps perfect. I did find a source for the terminals and have bunch extra if anyone needs. I'll also look up the source and part numbers for everyone later today.

If you have a good crimping tool then you can make them yourself. But it has the be the right tool. The $30 one I bought on Amazon didn’t work. I can’t remember exactly but I think the right crimper was close to $70! Normally I’d rather spend the money on the tool and get to have a tool but in this case the tool was sooooo specific I just couldn’t justify it so I bought the cables.

Thank you both for the quick reply. BreckenridgeCruiser, can you post which crimper and pins you had success with? I have to make two connectors, so DYI is the way to go for me. Also, you extra pins you want to part with, I'd be happy to purchase them from you. I will most likely need extras as I'm sure there is a learning curve in the process that will destroy a few. Thanks again.

 

[shtbrwn86]

Thank you both for the quick reply. BreckenridgeCruiser, can you post which crimper and pins you had success with? I have to make two connectors, so DYI is the way to go for me. Also, you extra pins you want to part with, I'd be happy to purchase them from you. I will most likely need extras as I'm sure there is a learning curve in the process that will destroy a few. Thanks again.

I still think there is a market for this. If someone got some bulk wire (color matching would be best) and a ton of terminals I bet you could get the cost down.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

I honestly didn't have any issues with the correct tool. I got the connectors from Corsa Technic and I need to look up the PNs for the pins. I also have a spare OEM plastic connector if anyone needs one...

 

[PabloCruise]

Some awesome help in here!
If we have some confirmed vendors and part numbers for the pins and crimpers, I can edit the first post to include. That way folks don't have to scroll through 10+ pages to find what they need...

As for me, I did not have time to experiment with a bunch of different pins and crimpers, so I spent the $ on the Toyota repair terminals...

 

[Bsherv87]

Hi guys... new guy here. Just picked up a 2000 LX470 and I'm digging in.... looks like previous owner already had an amp bypass under the passenger seat. Gonna install a 5-channel amp, new coaxials in the door, and a sub in the factory location. I'm gonna read through this thread for some learning... Nice to meet yall!

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

@PabloCruise sorry for the delay... Found the info for the pins and the tool I used to wire in my system. For what it's worth, I had to move some pins around so that the output from the radio speakers go to the amp inputs and that got rid of the buzzing. I also had to make sure I didn't mix the grounds. The harness I got from crutchfield used one ground for both audio outs.

Here are the part numbers and the card of the place I ordered. The tool was a high quality one I sourced on Amazon.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

I also have an extra OEM connector from Lexus/Toyota if anyone needs it.

 

[PabloCruise]

@PabloCruise sorry for the delay... Found the info for the pins and the tool I used to wire in my system. For what it's worth, I had to move some pins around so that the output from the radio speakers go to the amp inputs and that got rid of the buzzing. I also had to make sure I didn't mix the grounds. The harness I got from crutchfield used one ground for both audio outs.

Here are the part numbers and the card of the place I ordered. The tool was a high quality one I sourced on Amazon.

View attachment 2904627

View attachment 2904629

View attachment 2904630

View attachment 2904632

View attachment 2904633

Thanks @BreckenridgeCruiser !
It looks like the pin p/n is the male and the socket is the female.
When you say you had to love things around, do you mean it was not a perfect fit between the 2 components? Or do you mean that you had to move pins in the connector? Just trying to understand if any information needs correcting.

 

[BreckenridgeCruiser]

Yes. Pin is the male and the other is the female. I got the female as I wasn't sure if I need to create my own connectors at the amp since the LX amp is a mess.

The things I needed to move around were two things. The first being that the harness I got from crutchfield that had similar enough pins had the speaker/amp out grounds together in one. I separated them to have independent grounds for each channel and that cleared up the feedback. I also tied in the speaker outputs from the head into to go to the amp ins as opposed to wiring the RCA connectors from the head unit like the crutchfield harness had. That also cleaned up the signal. The crutchfield harness was for a land cruiser and not the LX, FYI.

I hope that all makes sense... I am not a radio guy.

 

[TSmed]

Finally starting to tackle this project after having the parts sitting in my garage for 6 months and I have some questions that hopefully someone can help answer. The head unity I am installing is an ATOTO S8 (Gen 2).

1) With the RCA cables, is the ground wire what would go to the corresponding "-" terminal? ie "FR -" would be the exposed wire? I'm also assuming the corresponding wires on the harness that came with my head unit I just ignore and tape off, correct?

2) Is the "10" pin what would correspond to a wire labeled "Accessory/Ignition"?

3) I'm assuming pin "1" is battery?

4) I have a wire labeled "Rear Camera +" to switch the screen to the backup camera it came with. Where exactly should this be connected to? Should I just run a wire to the reverse lights or is there something more practical and less likely that I'll screw up?

5) Any ideas where a wire labeled "Steering Wheel Key +" or "Steering Wheel Key# +" would go? This is apparently combined with the ground pin to power the 3.5mm jack that controller the aftermarket steering wheel control that I have.

Thank you y'all for the assistance.