Mystery 1HZ overheating issue... please help. All cooling systems inspected, serviced or replaced and all seems fine! (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 25, 2021
Threads
5
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Location
Durban, South Africa
Hi Mudders,

Maybe someone can help who has seen this show before. I did a 1Hz 4.2 diesel swap on a FJ62 (removing a 3f) a while back.

I had some electrical gremlins I managed to sort out, and a number of air leaks (including one on the fuel pickup inside the tank) which caused all sorts of drama, but I finally got to the bottom of it. The Engine was a supposedly refurbished engine from Japan, that was imported by the Toyota parts experts at Gemini in Johannesburg CBD. I honestly thought I had gotten the build stable as the engine itself had given no troubles for close on 15,000km of roadtrips and adventures.

My issue is the vehicle started overheating on long, strained uphill drives (this prior had only happened 3 times, all on stinking hot days running the aircon at the same time, but now is happening on any sustained long hill). I have a big hill by my house that I cannot drive up without the temp gauge going over 3/4, and over a 100 degrees when tested with the laser at the top of the hill. I had tried to take her up to the Drakensberg mountains, but just the steep sustained uphills leaving the beach the car ran to red-line and I had to stop and head home to get another vehicle. She ran cool as soon as I got onto the downhill again and removed the strain. If just driving around the city and normal strain, or even idling for hours it never climbs above half.

Here is the shopping list of things that were done:
1) Re-cored the original radiator at the time of the engine swap (ex 3F radiator) - and flow rate is good when tested recently (and we are doing some more detailed tests on it this week to make sure its not undersized for the diesel vs. petrol -- is this an issue that diesel needs more cooling than petrol??) No rust issues, or blockages we can see.
2) Tested the fan viscose coupling - seemed to be working well. But also serviced it with new silicone oil. Plus, tested her with a known working fan with a bigger diameter off another cruiser... still overheating. Also tried with the Shroud removed just in case that was the issue, but no assistance.
3) Replaced the Thermostat... I did find a number of holes drilled in the old thermostat (pointing me to think this is not the first time this engine has had overheating issues). Replacement is OEM from Toyota, and the parts guy said it was tested at the factory before they dispatched it to me. (We have not tried running the car with no thermostat at all... but the holes drilled in the old one - see pic below - make me think its not going to solve this issue)
4) Radiator Pipes are all newish and in good condition with no buildup or blockages.
5) Checked the water pump (metal blades) and all seems to be working appropriately and its definitely circulating
After doing all of this...
6) finally removed the head... there was a leak in the head gasket (see images below)... so we skimmed the head to get it smooth at an engineering shop and put the head back on with a thick gasket.
7) Sent the cruiser in to an Injector Pump specialist to check the timing was all good, and we were not overfueling. He did retard the timing some what, but the same issue remains.

I hoped no. 6 was the final step, but alas she is still overheating on sustained up hill drives at high revs... The car starts first time on a dime, and runs smoothly.

Anything I am missing - please help!! @roscoFJ73 you have been one of the most knowledgeable people I have encountered here around the 1HZ. Any ideas?

I attach some pics below for reference of the Thermostat removed, and the head off the engine
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-22 at 17.28.17 (3).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-22 at 17.28.17 (1).jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-22 at 17.28.04.jpeg
WhatsApp Image 2024-03-18 at 11.06.29.jpeg
 
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100C is nothing to worry about!
Imagine 15km of 15% grade and Toyota's loaded with 9 people doing this trip every day.
Underground temp of 40C to start the trip from 5000 vertical feet below to surface.
We are talking of a fleet here, driven by any monkey who can steer.
Many times these units have seen 230F and still go to work the next day.
Drop a gear, get the fan and waterpump turning, do not let the rpm drop or lug the engine.
 
100C is nothing to worry about!
Imagine 15km of 15% grade and Toyota's loaded with 9 people doing this trip every day.
Underground temp of 40C to start the trip from 5000 vertical feet below to surface.
We are talking of a fleet here, driven by any monkey who can steer.
Many times these units have seen 230F and still go to work the next day.
Drop a gear, get the fan and waterpump turning, do not let the rpm drop or lug the engine.

I like your optimism... but its a little hard to trust in dropping a gear and keeping the revs up as it creeps over 100'C closer and closer to red line :) -- this is not normal operating temperature for this engine is it? and this is a relatively short hill I am testing on
 
Fj62-so you’re running the automatic transmission that was behind the original motor?
no running the 5 speed manual H55F... but yes original gearbox for the 3F on the FJ62. They did companion this engine and gearbox on some 70 series I believe, so I dont consider that an issue, but I may be wrong.
 
100c is fine going up a hill. however i would never take a 1hz head off and skip pressure test and MAG check it for cracks.
 
I would lock up the fan and retest.
 
I agree 100⁰c coolant temp is ok, IF it was reliably verified
Was 100⁰c verified with more than an infrared gun?
Do you have an aftermarket temperature gauge? Or just relying on the standard gauge?

I had overheating issues with my 1hz in my hzj105. Only happened in similar conditions to what you describe.
Cooling system was brought up to 100%, but I still had issues.
The fan hub working properly was critical to this. I refilled mine with Toyota silicon oil. The difference was immediately obvious, but my oring leaked, and the oil came out of the hub in a few weeks, so I swapped in a new hub.
I thought this fixed my problem, but eventually it overheated again.

Mine turned out to be a cracked head.

I found that by the time the gauge but the red, it was too late, the engine has overheated already

While you have the head off, strip it, hot tank it, and crack test it.
It's also possible for cylinder walls to have tiny cracks
 
yes, as above
aftermarket gauge is needed for proper temp monitoring,
any head issues will surface like this BUT holding 100c is ok, pushing past 105 is too much for me tho
id consider it overheating at 110c+
i had a head gasket that didnt seal up and it would overheat very easily
 
Thanks for all the Input... we stripped the radiator for a proper check and there was a bunch of rust visible once the side frames were off...

1716461052206.png


Going to fix that and see if this solves the problem, as there is not space for a bigger radiator than this it seems.

Fan:
- did use toyota silicone oil - no help
- but will try lock up the fan also if the radiator doesnt solve the issue (although seems a stretch given I swapped out and tested with another fan and viscose)


Head:
- did do the pressure tests, and the engineering shop that did the skimming said it was not cracked, but just warped. I will have to find out exactly what tests were done and if a MAG test was done. I hope I didnt miss that step.
 
Been driving the 1991 hzj75 with over 500,000km and trailer around for the last week. Seeing normal temps when really not under load. Now when I hit the hills, I always try to speed up before hand and use that energy to keep the engine revving at 3000rpm as I shift from 5 to 4, and lower if needed. Will see 210F, have pushed even higher, the OEM gauge barely moves till 100C/212F.
You need to keep the fan and waterpump spinning in order to dissipate head.
NEVER lug an engine: Do not allow rpm to drop when climbing...you are producing great amounts of heat.
You are being paranoid about 100C, shift gears!
 
Since your spending time and money why not install an engine oil temperature gauge.
Engine oil temperature gauges are prevalent on Highway tractors. Keep the temperatures say within 15 degrees.
Secondly, those of us with turbos monitor EGT's and drive accordingly, shifting gears and tweaking our fuel pedals. Since I'm ranting...pay attention in sand, mud and snow because these conditions also generate heat.
My autobox hdj81 has a tranny gauge and I assure you that the above conditions will often have me drop into LOW range in order to cool things down.
Rant on!
 
If the radiator cannot keep up - nothing else will fix the problem he's having

If it doesn't have adequate air flowing through it, no radiator will solve the problem he's having.

There's countless threads here in mud with people having over hearing issues that are resolved with the fan hub being properly addressed.
The engine fan will pull air even at highway speeds. It is a critical part of the cooling system at any speed
 
Been driving the 1991 hzj75 with over 500,000km and trailer around for the last week. Seeing normal temps when really not under load. Now when I hit the hills, I always try to speed up before hand and use that energy to keep the engine revving at 3000rpm as I shift from 5 to 4, and lower if needed. Will see 210F, have pushed even higher, the OEM gauge barely moves till 100C/212F.
You need to keep the fan and waterpump spinning in order to dissipate head.
NEVER lug an engine: Do not allow rpm to drop when climbing...you are producing great amounts of heat.
You are being paranoid about 100C, shift gears!

100% agreed.

People have the mistaken idea that an engine is working harder and unhappy when running at higher RPM.
Diesel engine is happier revving, rather than struggling to maintain revs.
Trusting Toyota's Redline, and down shift and rev the engine as needed is better than loading it up at low RPM in too high a gear
 
thanks for all the input... I got the radiator back after cleaning the rust out. So fingers crossed this is the cause of the issue. Will revert when i know more

I thought you said you'd had the radiator recored?
 
I thought you said you'd had the radiator recored?
I did have it recored about 15,000km ago... and recently we tested the flow rate and it was seemingly fine as part of this diagnostic process, so it seemed a fools errand to strip her again and inspect the core. Yet there we were with the bottom clogged up with rust. Not sure how that works. Maybe it was done badly. I am truly hoping this is the issue... its been a bit of a frustrating process.
 
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