My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1..... (1 Viewer)

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Does anyone know the sizes and any alternative sources for the needle bearings on the lower case, and the bearing used at the motor shaft?

I hate to pay $40 to warn for something I can get for $4 somewhere else.

Thanks in advance.
 
I used fastenal and/or McMaster Carr
 
my uncle handed down an 8274 that had been my grandfather's until he died in 84, then my grandmother's til she died in 89, and then my uncles until last week. it has been sitting in my uncles shop since 1990 or so.

cracked the 8274 open this weekend to see how the guts have fared over the last 25 year. well, if it weren't for bad luck, i'd have no luck at all. the free spool clutch gear thingamajig (motor pinion gear, maybe) appears to be rusted/fused to the motor armature shaft and will not come off, nor can i remove the motor shaft from the upper casing.

also, once i pulled the lock plate/retainer ring up to free the spool from the lower case, the spool refuses to turn loose.

i was hoping that the guts would be easy to remove and somewhat simple to restore. but, now i'm scratching my head about how to get all the old parts out without further damaging them or the casing.

i was figuring about $100 for the lower spool seal kit and brake service kit. now, it looks like most of the innards would also need to be replaced just to make it operational.

at any rate, would anyone care to suggest how to get the motor pinion gear off the motor shaft as well as how to convince the spool to turn loose of the main gear?

thanks in advance


finally convinced the main gear to turn loose of the drum spool with the help of a few wooden wedges and a BFH. i also used a few gallons of apple cider vinegar to remove the rust from all the gears, the motor cap, and most of the brake parts. unfortunately, the apple cider vinegar ruined the brake shaft gear.

i'm gonna let the gears and the spool soak a few more days and then take the wire wheels to them. when i opened the case, there was no oil and lots of rusty crust. the gears were rusted pretty bad when i took them out of the case. eventually, i plan to paint the motor housing, the spool and the brake ratchet with gloss black implement paint. I'm wondering if it would also be a good idea to paint the sides of the gears to keep them from rusting like last time. any thoughts?

also, what can i do to keep the spool gear from seizing in the main gear? just keep oil in the case, or do i need to grease them before i install the spool?

thanks in advance
 
Does anyone know the sizes and any alternative sources for the needle bearings on the lower case, and the bearing used at the motor shaft?

I hate to pay $40 to warn for something I can get for $4 somewhere else.

Thanks in advance.


what are the dimensions of the drawn cup closed end needle bearing that holds the end of the brake shaft. i found a potential replacement on amazon that is 3/4" ID, 1" OD and 3/4" width for $8.16
 
Thanks to the detailed instructions from flintknapper I finally got around to fixing the leaks my winch. It's an older 8074 from 1975, which just so happens to match the year of my cruiser. I could've just replaced the drum seal and buttoned it back up, but it turned into a "While it's apart" type of deal. Cleaned, sandblasted, and repainted with all new seals. I was going to replace all the bushings, but after measuring them I could not find any noticeable wear, so I reused them. I suspect this winch was just old, but didn't see a whole lot of use. Even the original puck style brake pads seemed to be new.

20150426_172209.jpg


Well, since I didn't need the whole lower end rebuild kit, I just ordered some of the seals independently. Unbeknownst to me, the radial seal for the brake shaft is sold in packs of 4 or 5. The drum seal I found at mcmaster, but minimum order size was 10. So I have a bunch of leftover seals and didn't know what to do with, I figured I need to find a way to use them so they don't go to waste. So I bought another winch to rebuild

20150503_132628.jpg


This one is an older 8274 with a 1975 date code. Needs a new free spool clutch but other than that it's in great shape.

Well, the wife doesn't agree with my way of thinking, so she told me to get rid of all the extra parts. So if anybody needs the brake shaft seal or drum seal, send me your address and I'll send one out.
 
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^^^^^^^^^^^
Good looking rebuild 'Ducktape', should be "good to go"... long into the future now.

Flint.
 
I greased mine before I put it back together. But keeping gear oil in it and keeping rotated every couple months will work.

^^^^^
Yes, simply 'exercising' your winch every so often....will keep things lubricated and working well. Some folks don't have an occasion to actually need to use the winch for many months at a time, so spooling out a bit of cable/rope and reeling it back in is not only good for the winch but insures your winch will be working when you DO need it. Connections can become corroded, etc....so just 'work' your winch every few months and you'll have no surprises. This advice also applies to those with factory 'lockers', use them from time to time.

Flint.
 
Flintknapper - Great stuff here!! Do you have a list of all part numbers you ordered during the rebuild? I'm going' in!!
 
Great Thread! I've pulled my 8274 apart in the last few days and now getting ready to clean & paint.

I'd like to replace one of the motor posts as one had the threads pretty chewed up. Anyone know where they can be gotten?

Thanks again, ty
:beer:
 
Its a tight fit to get the old cover over the wites and solenoid I heated my plastic housing and formed it. Havent installed it on the vehicle so not sure how it will work out. I installed a bigger motor the same physical size at the same time. Hope it works but that cover makes it a tight fit.
 
Thanks shipmag. I'm gonna' give it a try. Seems to me that a solenoid that fails "open" is a pretty significant upgrade from one that fails closed!:doh:
 
So . . . I just busted a post off one of my solenoids. Does anybody have experience using SuperWinch contactors? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SPW-90-14452/

Like this guy did:
Warn Winch Solenoid Upgrade - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum


That guy is me - I posted the same thing here in this forum too. Five years later and several wheeling trips later, the Superwinch contactor is still working great.

Warn sells a heavier-duty one, but it's two or three times the cost of the one at Summit Racing.
 
1911 - Rad! Ordered and shipped. Summit Racing does it again. Any thoughts on fitting it under the Warn cover?
 
1911 - Rad! Ordered and shipped. Summit Racing does it again. Any thoughts on fitting it under the Warn cover?

I had two original plastic Warn covers laying around in my shop, of different ages I presume. The only real difference was the depth of the socket for the plug on the end of the controller wire; I used the one that was shallower, but I can't remember if it was the early or late one, sorry. I did drill some new holes in the solenoid/cover backing plate, so that I could position the contactor on the backing plate so that the control wires and power cables to the contactor would fit under the cover. The cover is still a tight fit over all that, but it does fit.
 
Bought a used 8274, PO advertized it as rebuilt. "Warn 8274-50 winch, excellent shape. Complete tear down and rebuild, new brake, clutch" After getting it, first thing I noticed was end drum housing had been welded and repaired, also it had no bushing, they had put grey tape on end of drum to take up slack. He told me he drained the oil before shipping to make sure it did not make a mess while shipping. Looked good on inside so I added the correct amount of oil, plus just little dab extra. It set on my bench for several days while we make a mount and showed no signs of leaking. After mounting the winch and installing new synthestic rope, it now is showing a small oil leak on the very bottom. I have wipped it off couple of times, but keeps coming back. Might chalk it up to addiing little too much oil (but dont think so), but what worries me is if they patched up the end housing, did they replace the seals on the drum? I think I will be better off pulling it back off and putting a new seal kit in the lower end, at least I would know for sure that way. Any other suggestions?
 
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Better to be sure. I'd take it apart just for the fun of it. Then you know what you've got.
 

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