My WARN 8274 rebuild part 1.....

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Sell it to me ill get it apart and cleaned up
 
I too mine to the auto parts store and used a huge 3 arm puller on it. It won't come off if you've rapped on the shaft and mushroomed it. Only way to get it off then is to sand down the mushroomed part.
 
Hey, new to the forum. I have been following this thread for a while as I am rebuilding my 8274.
My question is how tight should the brake paw bolt be? When I tighten it down the paw does not
Spring back. But when I leave it a little loose the bolt moves when I move the paw.

Thanks, Ed
 
toomanytoyzz said:
I just scored this one for $200 from a CL ad my father-in-law and I went to last weekend. The ad just said a bunch of tools with some random pics, so we took the ride since you could see a few hotrods in the background. I didn't see the winch until I went to the corner of the shop to grab a box to put some stuff in.

I bought it for $200 with NO warranty other than the sellers word that it works. Time will tell. My question is what kind of battery connection is this? Can I find the other end easily??

I will do a rebuild thread as well, but time is not on my side now. Between this winter and OT at work my Cruiser has been left in the dark. I can't wait until spring.
Click to expand...

That looks like it's an SB175. Might even be an SB350. I have them on both trucks. My winch is hard wired, but the quick disconnect is for jumper cables as well as keeping the battery charged with Battery Tender (I made an adapter - from ~12 gauge to 4 gauge).
 
Deranged - Something is wrong with your assembly. The bolt holding the Brake Pawl should be tightened up completely. The pawl should still be free to move. Recheck the parts and make sure the Pawl isn't rubbing on the housing, or maybe you have the spring installed incorrectly. The spring is supposed to fit in one of the little notches on the big cup washer holding the Pawl on the housing.
 
It looks like I'm going to have to replace the brake shaft needle bearing on my latest project. Flint and Simon discussed it briefly on page 6, but I never did see the procedure for getting the old one out and the new one in. Anybody have advice on how to do this without a press?
 
I suspicioned someone would break out a google reference which can answer any question ever posted.

But the reason I inquired is I especially prefer flintknapper's drain/fill plug to the others I've seen as his appear that they wont leak and I can't find them as of yet. Arkansas aint exactly NYC if ya know what i mean.
 
I went to ace hardware, got ss Allen head socket screws and used rubber washers and fipg.
 
The top 'fill' plug is simply a 1/4" pipe plug (you can purchase at any auto parts store). Of course, you will need to 'tap' the housing accordingly. The bottom 'drain' is 1/4" pipe hex nipple (brass), it has a thin nut on the inside of the case to tighten against, then I used quick-set JB weld (inside and out) to help provide strength and to insure no leaks around the hole drilled to accept the nipple.

The final part is a brass 1/4" pipe cap. You can install an O-Ring or a flat piece of Rubber in the cap to help seal it off and to keep the cap from vibrating loose.

And yes.......they do NOT leak.
 
Hey guys. Quick question. My bronze bushing keeps getting pushed out when I activate the winch. I then pushed the bushing all they way in to act as a thrust washer for the gear and used my punch to 'trap' it in there. It is now really hard to free spool now. I ordered a new bushing and it did the same thing. It works fine if I power out and power in.
Advice?
 
I may have the same problem. My bushing comes out real easy. The housing may be worn. When you get the new bushing use some bearing loctite on it. Be sure to get the right loctite or it will be a bitch taking it out the next time. Read the thread that others have wrote they talk about how deep the bushing is suppose to be. I made mine flush with the inside of the housing will have to see how that works. I measured it and called it close enough. The instructions you get will tell you the dimension i believe. good luck
 
the day i got it



the soup that came out of it



one of the first 10k made





with the warn heavy duty industrial 12v solenoid, also a round 4 pin trailer harness for my homemade winch control, grounding lug on the body of the motor, a few things still to work out, but it's been working flawlessly

 
my uncle handed down an 8274 that had been my grandfather's until he died in 84, then my grandmother's til she died in 89, and then my uncles until last week. it has been sitting in my uncles shop since 1990 or so.

cracked the 8274 open this weekend to see how the guts have fared over the last 25 year. well, if it weren't for bad luck, i'd have no luck at all. the free spool clutch gear thingamajig (motor pinion gear, maybe) appears to be rusted/fused to the motor armature shaft and will not come off, nor can i remove the motor shaft from the upper casing.

also, once i pulled the lock plate/retainer ring up to free the spool from the lower case, the spool refuses to turn loose.

i was hoping that the guts would be easy to remove and somewhat simple to restore. but, now i'm scratching my head about how to get all the old parts out without further damaging them or the casing.

i was figuring about $100 for the lower spool seal kit and brake service kit. now, it looks like most of the innards would also need to be replaced just to make it operational.

at any rate, would anyone care to suggest how to get the motor pinion gear off the motor shaft as well as how to convince the spool to turn loose of the main gear?

thanks in advance
 
I was able to get the manual clutch assembly off the motor pinion gear, but broke some outer teeth off the pinion gear when i convinced the motor and seal out of the casing. I'd like to get the upper casing gear out but not sure how to do that. Anyone know the preferred method of getting the gear out of the upper case?

I was also able to pry the brake assembly out of the lower case and remove everything except the main gear and the spool, and of course the needle bearings (which are shot by the way).

I'm contemplating soaking everything in the molasses solution I've read about to try and breakup the rust that must be holding the spool to the main gear. While I'm at it, I'll throw the gears in there to loosen up the rust, and then try to bead blast everything.
 
use a gear puller tighten the gear puller down tight the hit it with a hammer tighten the bolt hit the bolt with the hammer keep doing this until it comes off. Whole lot quicker than soaking it.
 
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