If truly an imported JDM motor, I would caution you. I'm not 100% sure but I don't think Japanese 100's had VVT-i motors. Most markets outside North America didn't get VVT-i.
My tragic introduction
- Thread starter illidee
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- Thread starter
- #22
I apologize if this has been gone over before but would anyone mind helping me out with a list of all the vital items I’m going to need to replace if I actually go through with this engine swap? I know it’s a lot of seals, gaskets, belts, hoses, and the like, water pump, starter, etc. I just don’t want to miss anything that would be easily accessible while doing the swap that could come back to bite me later on. Alternatively, is there any of this stuff that you think I shouldn’t bother replacing or believe that I don’t need to replace?
I’m leaning toward going through with it, but maybe someone wants to talk me off the ledge, or push me over
.
Either way I genuinely appreciate everyone’s help.
I’m leaning toward going through with it, but maybe someone wants to talk me off the ledge, or push me over
. Either way I genuinely appreciate everyone’s help.
I replaced bascially every seal and gasket possible while I had my engine out. But evertyhing on this list is optional, its all about how much you want to spend. I replaced al of the following with Genuine OEM parts. i use www.toyodiy.com for looking up part numbers and diagrams:I apologize if this has been gone over before but would anyone mind helping me out with a list of all the vital items I’m going to need to replace if I actually go through with this engine swap? I know it’s a lot of seals, gaskets, belts, hoses, and the like, water pump, starter, etc. I just don’t want to miss anything that would be easily accessible while doing the swap that could come back to bite me later on. Alternatively, is there any of this stuff that you think I shouldn’t bother replacing or believe that I don’t need to replace?
I’m leaning toward going through with it, but maybe someone wants to talk me off the ledge, or push me over
Either way I genuinely appreciate everyone’s help.
Starter
intake manifold gaskets
throttle body gaskets
all injector seals + gaskets
Valve cover gaskets
rear main seal
throttle body coolant hoses (3)
exhaust manifolds, studs, and gaskets ($800+ extra for these, but peace of mind in never having to worry about these again)
oil cooler hoses ( 3)
upper and lower radiator hoses
radiator - went with CSF aluminum
I did not do the timing belt, as mine should have about 40K miles left to go
So i spent like $3k more than i needed to to get the job done, but now my cruiser shouldn't need any maintenance other than oil changes for 7-10 years, and a timing belt in 3 years or so. Let me know if you have other questions
To OP, from what I read you’re already convinced that your engine is bad, but did you get it checked by only one shop?
How sure are you that it needs replacement? Did you check compression or went by what they said without double checking? Was the diagnostic work done by the same shop that quoted you $11k + on a used engine?
Not saying they’re wrong, just asking since there’s lots of mechanics that will lead you towards a new engine since it’s the easiest path, and probably most profitable.
A compression test tool doesn’t cost much and I’d check it myself, that’s just me..
If low compression, what’s the culprit?
Bad rings? Chipped valve or bad seat? Cracked piston? Maybe a head job is enough to save your Cruiser…
Just bought this last week:
Cheap and excellent video, maybe try it and see for yourself, a wrong diagnosis can become expensive.
How sure are you that it needs replacement? Did you check compression or went by what they said without double checking? Was the diagnostic work done by the same shop that quoted you $11k + on a used engine?
Not saying they’re wrong, just asking since there’s lots of mechanics that will lead you towards a new engine since it’s the easiest path, and probably most profitable.
A compression test tool doesn’t cost much and I’d check it myself, that’s just me..
If low compression, what’s the culprit?
Bad rings? Chipped valve or bad seat? Cracked piston? Maybe a head job is enough to save your Cruiser…
Just bought this last week:
Cheap and excellent video, maybe try it and see for yourself, a wrong diagnosis can become expensive.
- Thread starter
- #25
It’s got zero compression in the number 1 cylinder and there’s bits of metal on the end of the spark plug.
Trust me, I would love to not replace the engine but either way
I’m not having that shop do any work. That shop is in Reno where the failure occurred. I’m having the truck towed back to the bay at some point in the next day or so. I found a used motor for $2500, and a rebuilt for $3500 that includes an installation gasket set and new timing belt. My local shop quoted me about $3500 for the labor.
Plus whatever other parts I need, which honestly is hard to put a number on at the moment.
I would kind of hate to just sell it as a project and take such a big loss but I do have to consider that as an option also.
Decisions decisions. All I know is, thank god for AAA premier and their 200 mile included free tow.
I would add the Knock sensors and hoses to the air injection pump. If the AI pump is original I would add that too and any related part that could go bad after the install.
- Thread starter
- #27
If I replace the steering rack while I’m doing this will that fix my problem with the VGRS? According to a tech stream reading I did awhile back I have a bad VGRS actuator. I just drove it like that because the wheel being off center was annoying but not that big of a deal. From what I’ve read I’m pretty sure the new rack will take care of the issue but I’m not 100 percent sure. I’ve read all the other threads on the issue at length but a definitive answer on the subject would be helpful.
First any engine you find, closely inspect. Do not just snatch the first deal that comes along. Inspect, inspect, inspect. Some $100 borescopes' on Amazon, really have good cameras/resolution (2mb). Well worth the investment, when hunting for good engie.
First is check VIN # (on BK2 head) with carfax and Lexus/Toyota service history. Look to see if things like starter replaced. That is a red flag. As so often, sand dropped into intake ports. Again borescope is your friend. Engine that sit outside or has no hood cover. May be water logged. Also DTC or service notes indicating overheated, etc..
I'd look with borescope at each of the cylinders. Note: Sometimes we see what may look like a burn on cylinder wall. This may be a refection or too minor to be a concern. Key is, to look for hone marks. Hone marks should be continuous (unbroken).
Also back into SAI blower at filter. In any VVT engine.
I'd also do a inspect of the S.A.I filter. If gone, I may pass. It would depend on a good cylinders looked.
I would for sure do a SAI filter mod:
forum.ih8mud.com
What parts are needed, depends on engine you find. If a 06-07 100 series, it's basically a drop in. Good idea to do a T-belt and tune up.
If a non 100 series, more parts and more labor. But typically engine cost less. 100 series fetch a premium price.
If VIN missing (BK 2 head, VIN plate riveted on), likely a BS engine much high miles than stated. There are no 50K miles JDM 2UZ-fe VVT in USA, last I look nor had any ever come to USA.
Block ID is different, but can be helpful.
forum.ih8mud.com
Here's one swap engine.
forum.ih8mud.com
First is check VIN # (on BK2 head) with carfax and Lexus/Toyota service history. Look to see if things like starter replaced. That is a red flag. As so often, sand dropped into intake ports. Again borescope is your friend. Engine that sit outside or has no hood cover. May be water logged. Also DTC or service notes indicating overheated, etc..
I'd look with borescope at each of the cylinders. Note: Sometimes we see what may look like a burn on cylinder wall. This may be a refection or too minor to be a concern. Key is, to look for hone marks. Hone marks should be continuous (unbroken).
Also back into SAI blower at filter. In any VVT engine.
I'd also do a inspect of the S.A.I filter. If gone, I may pass. It would depend on a good cylinders looked.
I would for sure do a SAI filter mod:
S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...
forum.ih8mud.com
What parts are needed, depends on engine you find. If a 06-07 100 series, it's basically a drop in. Good idea to do a T-belt and tune up.
If a non 100 series, more parts and more labor. But typically engine cost less. 100 series fetch a premium price.
If VIN missing (BK 2 head, VIN plate riveted on), likely a BS engine much high miles than stated. There are no 50K miles JDM 2UZ-fe VVT in USA, last I look nor had any ever come to USA.
Block ID is different, but can be helpful.
Engine Block Identification number decipher?
I've been rooting around the net, looking for an engine block code decipher for our 2UZ-fe block or toyota engines in general. Anyone have a handle on this? I've found two location on our block with identification numbers/letters: One set is stamped just below throttle body on front top of...
forum.ih8mud.com
Here's one swap engine.
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Yep the search is over, I scored a Silver 2007 Unicorn Land Cruiser w/Thunder Cloud trim and stone interior. I started this hobby of restoring 100 series, after getting the bug! A bug perpetuated reading mud, as a distraction from the stress of trading oil futures contracts 23 hours a day. I'd...
forum.ih8mud.com
Ask for pictures of engine, including VIN# on head!
I'd buy a dozen JDM's 4.7L 2UZ.fe VVT (used from Japan with 50K engine). If I could. I tried! The real JDM imports, told me they never see them. Very few in Japan to begin with. Those that can afford, don't care about the 50K mile plus tax.
I'd buy a dozen JDM's 4.7L 2UZ.fe VVT (used from Japan with 50K engine). If I could. I tried! The real JDM imports, told me they never see them. Very few in Japan to begin with. Those that can afford, don't care about the 50K mile plus tax.
Last edited:
It ... depends, but engine-out is the best possible time to put a new rack in.
"The engine is fully rebuilt"
"Includes installation gasket set and timing belt"
Uhhhhh. I would ask what "fully rebuilt" means to them. That response is completely canned by Mr Engineworld. I would rather find a 300k motor with known history than whatever this place is selling.
You could could also get a short block right from Toyota. Then just get a RH head and LH head and slap it together with your old accessories. Just look at that 25% off promo add up!
Partsouq shows origin of that short block to be Japan...
"Includes installation gasket set and timing belt"
Uhhhhh. I would ask what "fully rebuilt" means to them. That response is completely canned by Mr Engineworld. I would rather find a 300k motor with known history than whatever this place is selling.
You could could also get a short block right from Toyota. Then just get a RH head and LH head and slap it together with your old accessories. Just look at that 25% off promo add up!
Partsouq shows origin of that short block to be Japan...
First any engine you find, closely inspect. Do not just snatch the first deal that comes along. Inspect, inspect, inspect. Some $100 borescopes' on Amazon, really have good cameras/resolution (2mb). Well worth the investment, when hunting for good engie.
First is check VIN # (on BK2 head) with carfax and Lexus/Toyota service history. Look to see if things like starter replaced. That is a red flag. As so often, sand dropped into intake ports. Again borescope is your friend. Engine that sit outside or has no hood cover. May be water logged. Also DTC or service notes indicating overheated, etc..
I'd look with borescope at each of the cylinders. Note: Sometimes we see what may look like a burn on cylinder wall. This may be a refection or too minor to be a concern. Key is, to look for hone marks. Hone marks should be continuous (unbroken).
Also back into SAI blower at filter. In any VVT engine.
View attachment 3560745View attachment 3560746
I'd also do a inspect of the S.A.I filter. If gone, I may pass. It would depend on a good cylinders looked.
I would for sure do a SAI filter mod:
S.A.I. Filter Modification, in VVT engines. To prevent its failure! Alert Alert!
We've a $2.00 part in the S.A.I. (secondary air injection) system of the VVT engine, that is taking-out ~$7,000.00 $15,000 $25,000 (inflation) in parts. WOW! I've a very easy and cheap WORK AROUND. You are going to love this ;) This thread is dedicated to the 4.7L 2UZ-fe VVT engine, in the...
What parts are needed, depends on engine you find. If a 06-07 100 series, it's basically a drop in. Good idea to do a T-belt and tune up.
If a non 100 series, more parts and more labor. But typically engine cost less. 100 series fetch a premium price.
If VIN missing (BK 2 head, VIN plate riveted on), likely a BS engine much high miles than stated. There are no 50K miles JDM 2UZ-fe VVT in USA, last I look nor had any ever come to USA.
Block ID is different, but can be helpful.
Engine Block Identification number decipher?
I've been rooting around the net, looking for an engine block code decipher for our 2UZ-fe block or toyota engines in general. Anyone have a handle on this? I've found two location on our block with identification numbers/letters: One set is stamped just below throttle body on front top of...
Here's one swap engine.
Scored 2007 Unicorn. The holy grail of 100 series.
Yep the search is over, I scored a Silver 2007 Unicorn Land Cruiser w/Thunder Cloud trim and stone interior. I started this hobby of restoring 100 series, after getting the bug! A bug perpetuated reading mud, as a distraction from the stress of trading oil futures contracts 23 hours a day. I'd...
Just would like to add to the long list which are all very good pointers. The minute you get the engine after all the visual inspection do a leak down test and if possible do a compression test. The borescope will help you the most just to see the inside of the engine so I highly recommend to get one.