What are the differences between 2UZ-fe VVti engines, & where can I get one?? (2 Viewers)

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I'm in need of a engine and looking for ideas.:hmm:

Some questions I have are:
  1. What all makes, models and years did Toyota/Lexus install the 2UZ-fe VVti in?
  2. Are the 2UZ-fe VVti engine the same in the 06-07 Land Cruiser/LX470?
  3. Are 4runner, GX, Tundra, Sequoia etc. different then ours?
  4. What are the difference?
  5. What are some good sources for engines?

I'm posting pictures/video to answer question of why I'm looking.
Heater Tee blew, combustion gas coming out the rear water by-pass joint water outlet hose.

Edited 2/17/18 to include post near end, skip if you'd like to just read through.

Conclusion took me back to what @Ali FJ80 first said to me "stick with the Japanese made engine for my replacement selection"

I've post in many Tundra, Sequoia & Land Cruiser forums and threads asking about rods & piston slap (after warm up). I've not found evidence or firsthand knowledge of these things in any forums or news articles.

But, 2 out of 3 Mechanics are seeing more issues with USA made 2UZ-fe.

Turning to shops for answers, asking mechanics what they're seeing.

1) One, a heavy duty Toyota Dealer mechanic of 20 years said: "odds of piston slap are the same Japanese or US made" He doesn't think there's a difference.

2) One, at a one man shop that work on various makes or models, but specializes in Toyota said avoid the US made they develop piston slap.

3) One at a one man shop that works only on Toyota said; "Seeing broken rods and hears piston slap in USA made, and not in Land Cruisers".

I did not find out where the respective components (block, crank, rods, pistons, heads, cams, etc.) are forged. But did see written in article about million mile tundra and video evidence they're machined at plant of assemble

I'd like to find out why this is the case; metals, coatings, tolerance, oils, workmanship or what?

Why! Concern without more info, can new OEM parts from the Dealer to be trusted.


Edited 2/17/18: To include a later post, that I copy over from the Tundra section also include links from other Forums.

Thanks @krice118 I do recall that thread now, it was very inconclusive. Accidental Tundra Motor Upgrade 2UZFE engine

He didn't even state which year the Tundra 4.7 was from. Just said 01-04, which could be Japanese or USA made (03+ USA made). His claim it has super power, well the long block and intake are the same in all 4.7L. What I did find interesting, is he bent a rod by overboosting a 100 series w/SC. All 4.7L rod are forged. That said; I've heard of bad rod on Tundras, but never on 100 series that are stock.

@FJ73Texas labor force may well be the case, I can't say! Toyota does say; Quality control, training and management style is the same world wide.

What I can say, or rather wish I had the answers for:
  • We don't know if metals are the same. By this I mean, was the same crank, rods, block or piston for example provided from same or different source in USA vs Japanese made engines?
  • Final machining of these various parts was likely done at their respective assembly plants. Could the talorances be better at one more than the other plant. If so, wouldn't equipment difference more so than labor force the issue?
  • There is a coating on the piston shelve (see above). Was there any different of coating.
  • Any difference in Oils use in assembly. Somewhere I saw; Toyota use same for assembly that they put in the crankcase for shipping.
So I can't rule the above out as we/I just don't know!

"Thereafter" oil in the real world use, how engine maintained and frequency & quality of oil & filters (Oil & Air) certainly have effects. But if we assume we've about equal good & poor maintainers of each, than that is really beyond the scope of is this as a Toyota manufacturing issue.

Indication are there was a lot more Tundras & Sequoia 4.7L than the 100 series in the USA. Could numbers be the reason USA made 4.7L had/have a bad rap. Well' I asked each mechanic if they saw/worked on more USA or Japanese made. They each said about equal, which surprises me, beings it seems we've more of one than the other here in the USA.

I ask the mechanics:

Was there any years which they saw more issues than others. One did not indicate years. But was very clear he not only experiencing in the shop, but heard complaints about piston slap while on Tour with Toyota, from owners of USA made 4.7L.

Another said the 03-early07, thereafter it stop. It seemed with the intro of the 5.7, they made a change to the 4.7L. Again one must ask; was this perception (based on numbers) as more 5.7 would surely have been bought/sold IMHO by first adopters and those desire for latest great and more power. Or did Toyota change something.

Issue obviously does not affect all USA made or I would have gotten overwhelming response in the many forums I posted these question in. But I'm now of the opinion it is a manufacturing issue, of at least some of the USA made 4.7L.

I've enough concern I'll not buy a USA made pre 07 without hearing it run, for use in a 100 series. The risk; I may waste money and time needed to pull back out is just to high!

Some of the thread I posted these question:
Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made?
Piston Slap, who's noticed some?
Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made?
Are 2UZ-fe in Tundra/Sequoia developing piston slap?
Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made? - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum
Piston slap - Toyota Tundra Forums : Tundra Solutions Forum
Japanese 4.7L engine better than USA made? - TundraTalk.net - Toyota Tundra Discussion Forum
 
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YardPig

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Have you owned it for long? Mileage? It must have been driven for quite some distance to cook the head gasket(s) out of it...
 
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Have you owned it for long? Mileage? It must have been driven for quite some distance to cook the head gasket(s) out of it...
Nope, just arrived. PO said; "stop as soon as knew something wrong". I just posted above pictures/video, as I knew people would wonder why I'm asking about engines. I'll say this; rig has low miles, was pampered and Toyota Dealership maintained "by the book" with history of coolant flush.

Back to question of OP. @Ali FJ80 tells me the 4 Runner & GX are built in Japan, unlike Sequoia & Tundra. I'm wondering what if any difference in those engine or are they just US assembled from all the same Japanese parts or a mix etc?

Also are they different then our engine and in what ways?
Here is a good start

Uz wiki
Toyota UZ engine - Wikipedia

View attachment 1529374

Should be plenty of engines out there to choose from
Thanks, that's a good start.

I was thinking Lexus had a sedan 4 door with the 2UZ-fe VVti engine. Do you think this list is complete?
 

abuck99

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One thing I've read(i haven't confirmed for sure) is that there are US made 2UZ engines(maybe for tundra and sequoia) and the engine components are different- cast pistons vs forged pistons etc. You might look into that and stick with the imported platforms that have the Japan made 2UZ.

The list came from Wiki so prob worthy of verification through other sources.
 
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Interesting project you have there. @ponytl has done a few engine swaps so he may be some assistance to you on this.

One thing to look for also is oil pan differences and possibly motor mounts for the different frame configurations. You may have to swap some parts over from the 100 engine if using an engine from a different vehicle.

I would first start checking at local salvage yards. My local yard sources parts throughout the US. They are more $$ than an eBay engine but if I have a problem I don't have to ship it back to the seller. Some yards give you a warranty as well which you will have to provide your vin to them.

I would try to get a complete engine with as much parts as possible preferably with a wiring harness.

Are you planning on tearing this one down at all? Curious what might be the cost to repair this one if possible?

Toyota may sell a short block but I am sure that would be $$$$$. Worth checking into though.

Tundra 2uz seem to be bulletproof as well. (Surprised? I have seen videos of a 1 million mile tundra) So if any internal differences I would not be concerned with
 
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The US based 2UZ was the one they dissembled in the million mile tundra. It was built in Huntsville and still within OE specs. I would just find one and roll with it.
 

abuck99

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I found a few decent threads discussing it here on mud- one in particular might help shed more light on US vs Japan mfg engines
2UZ-FE Diffrences
 
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crimsonaudio

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One thing I've read(i haven't confirmed for sure) is that there are US made 2UZ engines(maybe for tundra and sequoia) and the engine components are different- cast pistons vs forged pistons etc. You might look into that and stick with the imported platforms that have the Japan made 2UZ.
Be interesting to see if the part numbers are different, because they'd have to be if the parts are truly different.
 

abuck99

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Be interesting to see if the part numbers are different, because they'd have to be if the parts are truly different.
See the link I posted above (2uz-fe differences) seems they share same replacement parts (con-rods etc), but it doesn't confirm OES production parts were the same. Anyway I don't think it matters all that much in reality, its not a race motor. In this LC/LX application its a 2000-3000rpm workhorse.
 

crimsonaudio

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See the link I posted above (2uz-fe differences) seems they share same replacement parts (con-rods etc), but it doesn't confirm OES production parts were the same. Anyway I don't think it matters all that much in reality, its not a race motor. In this LC/LX application its a 2000-3000rpm workhorse.
My point is that if the parts were created differently on purpose, they would have different part numbers. Otherwise when a Toyota dealership in the US ordered a new piston set, the warehouse would need to know if they were forged or cast, for example.

IOW, since the part numbers are the same, and since there's only rumor that the parts are different, I'd bet cash money that there's zero difference in the actual parts. Whether or not the Japanese assembled engines are better due to tolerances and craftsmanship is up for debate, but I'd not think twice about using whatever OEM labelled parts were direct replacements.
 
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Got to agree, It doesn't matter where they are supplied from, as Toyota quality control will be in place. Who knows what country the parts for the japanese engines come from, these aren't hand crafted engines, they come of a production line most probably, and the important people on these lines are probably from Toyota Japan.
 
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One thing I've read(i haven't confirmed for sure) is that there are US made 2UZ engines(maybe for tundra and sequoia) and the engine components are different- cast pistons vs forged pistons etc. You might look into that and stick with the imported platforms that have the Japan made 2UZ.

The list came from Wiki so prob worthy of verification through other sources.
I read something along these lines also, in mud once. I was thinking it was connecting rod IDK. Comparing part numbers should be revealing.

Interesting project you have there. @ponytl has done a few engine swaps so he may be some assistance to you on this.

One thing to look for also is oil pan differences and possibly motor mounts for the different frame configurations. You may have to swap some parts over from the 100 engine if using an engine from a different vehicle.

I would first start checking at local salvage yards. My local yard sources parts throughout the US. They are more $$ than an eBay engine but if I have a problem I don't have to ship it back to the seller. Some yards give you a warranty as well which you will have to provide your vin to them.

I would try to get a complete engine with as much parts as possible preferably with a wiring harness.

Are you planning on tearing this one down at all? Curious what might be the cost to repair this one if possible?

Toyota may sell a short block but I am sure that would be $$$$$. Worth checking into though.

Tundra 2uz seem to be bulletproof as well. (Surprised? I have seen videos of a 1 million mile tundra) So if any internal differences I would not be concerned with
Haven't seen @ponytl around here for awhile, but seems he did a few. I recall him saying it easier and cheaper then doing a head R&R job. His post's are one of the main reasons I'm considering a swap.

We're of like mind here as I would like to find low mileage complete. As I would like to keep as many parts on my blow engine as I can.

The US based 2UZ was the one they dissembled in the million mile tundra. It was built in Huntsville and still within OE specs. I would just find one and roll with it.
Very good point. As I recall the owner drove 1 million miles in 5 years. He had serviced every 5K miles by Toyota and only needed a starter in addition to factory SMG PM stuff.

I want to say I read somewhere that the oil pan on the sequoia/tundra was different?
This is what @Ali FJ80 thoughts were also.

I found a few decent threads discussing it here on mud- one in particular might help shed more light on US vs Japan mfg engines
2UZ-FE Diffrences

Paul you might also connect with @beno and see if he has an engine source for you.
Good stuff, thanks my friend. I'll read through that.


Be interesting to see if the part numbers are different, because they'd have to be if the parts are truly different.
Good point. Although sometimes we get USA made replacement OEM parts, whereas factory where not, at least on Japanese made (100 series).
Example: I just bought 8 coils for Snowy (06LC, See my signature) they were from Denso Japan. While at Toyota Dealer we (parts guy & I) looked at coils for the pre Oct 2003 (he said Toyota always make changes in Oct) which have different parts number for some reason (we have no idea why) which are Denso USA, they even wrap very differently. The USA where warp in a triple layer of bubble warp, Japans where in a box.

Denso Spark plugs are just one more example. I can tell if they've been replaced, just by looking where made.

Interestingly I just bought 8 Standard Auto Fuel injectors. Stardard (I was told) bought Dense mold and Denso no longer makes them for 2UZ-fe. They look the same even have Denso on them. The one difference is they needed to be cleaned before operating properly. (See Snowy in my signature) then work perfect.
See the link I posted above (2uz-fe differences) seems they share same replacement parts (con-rods etc), but it doesn't confirm OES production parts were the same. Anyway I don't think it matters all that much in reality, its not a race motor. In this LC/LX application its a 2000-3000rpm workhorse.
True, but as you know this 100 I'm now restoring, is arguably the rarest one in the lower 48. The holy Grail of 100 series. Oops did I just say that, I did.:bounce:

My point is that if the parts were created differently on purpose, they would have different part numbers. Otherwise when a Toyota dealership in the US ordered a new piston set, the warehouse would need to know if they were forged or cast, for example.

IOW, since the part numbers are the same, and since there's only rumor that the parts are different, I'd bet cash money that there's zero difference in the actual parts. Whether or not the Japanese assembled engines are better due to tolerances and craftsmanship is up for debate, but I'd not think twice about using whatever OEM labelled parts were direct replacements.
I'm sure Toyota would say they are all built to Toyota standards, no matter where in the world assembled.

The fuel Injector example above, Toyota showed 55 in USA inventory, which it is believed they are Denso Japan.


Got to agree, It doesn't matter where they are supplied from, as Toyota quality control will be in place. Who knows what country the parts for the japanese engines come from, these aren't hand crafted engines, they come of a production line most probably, and the important people on these lines are probably from Toyota Japan.
This is a reasonable assumption.

Some have said the Land Cruiser's was built to a higher standard. But I think that has more to do with overall engineering of the vehicle. I do know I like keep the factory parts in when possible.
 
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I know about the 5VZFE a bit and many in the T4R forum replace JDM engines into their 4runners (3rd gen). The parts they have to swap are the oil pan, oil cooler/oil filter, engine mounts and exhaust manifold. So I think the base is the same.
 
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I don't hang here as much as all 5 of my Cruisers are running with zero issues and My 13yo son has been building vintage motorcycles and I have been have'n fun helping...
I have never done a VI engine only the base non vi 4.7... but they should be about the same... and again from my searches all of them will interchange BUT you will have to use the oil pan, motor mounts, oil filter mount, and exhaust, from your engine... I do not know about the TB but since you have to pull the intake anyway to get to the starter wires... it's not a big deal.... on a 1 to 10 scale IF you have tools (doesn't take many) and a place to work and a way to pull the engine then it is a full days work to do the swap if you have 2 people who know how to wrench... takes me 2 days doing it alone but I'm slow and easily distracted... and I do the timing belt/water pump while the engine is out (adds an hour to the job) helps to have a engine stand to swap parts... 2 would be better ... but I have done it several times with just one... to be fair I have a crap load of tools a 50x80 shop and a forklift vs a cherry picker don't have a job and I guess someone might come looking for me if I was trapped under a motor at some point... IMHO i'd rather do this swap than pull the heads any day and the skill set is far less...
I almost purchased a 2008 tundra with a blown engine but it was the 5.7 which is great but the price of a used 5.7 is 3x that of a 4.7
good luck
p

NOTE i did not mean to say the later model variable Valve timing engines were the SAME as the non... I said the swap should be the same the variable valve engines should interchange with like engines sans the mentioned parts...
 
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Onur

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I read something along these lines also, in mud once. I was thinking it was connecting rod IDK. Comparing part numbers should be revealing.

Haven't seen @ponytl around here for awhile, but seems he did a few. I recall him saying it easier and cheaper then doing a head R&R job. His post's are one of the main reasons I'm considering a swap.

We're of like mind here as I would like to find low mileage complete. As I would like to keep as many parts on my blow engine as I can.

Very good point. As I recall the owner drove 1 million miles in 5 years. He had serviced every 5K miles by Toyota and only needed a starter in addition to factory SMG PM stuff.

This is what @Ali FJ80 thoughts were also.

Good stuff, thanks my friend. I'll read through that.

BTW: I received your present for the Kings headlights. Thanks you so much. I hope your new front driveshaft arrive today, they'll be so cool with your new hub flanges.;)

Good point. Although sometimes we get USA made replacement OEM parts, whereas factory where not, at least on Japanese made (100 series).
Example: I just bought 8 coils for Snowy (06LC, See my signature) they were from Denso Japan. While at Toyota Dealer we (parts guy & I) looked at coils for the pre Oct 2003 (he said Toyota always make changes in Oct) which have different parts number for some reason (we have no idea why) which are Denso USA, they even wrap very differently. The USA where warp in a triple layer of bubble warp, Japans where in a box.

Denso Spark plugs are just one more example. I can tell if they've been replaced, just by looking where made.

Interestingly I just bought 8 Standard Auto Fuel injectors. Stardard (I was told) bought Dense mold and Denso no longer makes them for 2UZ-fe. They look the same even have Denso on them. The one difference is they needed to be cleaned before operating properly. (See Snowy in my signature) then work perfect.
True, but as you know this 100 I'm now restoring, is arguably the rarest one in the lower 48. The holy Grail of 100 series. Oops did I just say that, I did.:bounce:

I'm sure Toyota would say they are all built to Toyota standards, no matter where in the world assembled.

The fuel Injector example above, Toyota showed 55 in USA inventory, which it is believed they are Denso Japan.


This is a reasonable assumption.

Some have said the Land Cruiser's was built to a higher standard. But I think that has more to do with overall engineering of the vehicle. I do know I like keep the factory parts in when possible.
So much mis-information in this thread that I don't even know where to begin.
 
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I don't hang here as much as all 5 of my Cruisers are running with zero issues and My 13yo son has been building vintage motorcycles and I have been have'n fun helping...
I have never done a VI engine only the base non vi 4.7... but they should be about the same... and again from my searches all of them will interchange BUT you will have to use the oil pan, motor mounts, oil filter mount, and exhaust, from your engine... I do not know about the TB but since you have to pull the intake anyway to get to the starter wires... it's not a big deal.... on a 1 to 10 scale IF you have tools (doesn't take many) and a place to work and a way to pull the engine then it is a full days work to do the swap if you have 2 people who know how to wrench... takes me 2 days doing it alone but I'm slow and easily distracted... and I do the timing belt/water pump while the engine is out (adds an hour to the job) helps to have a engine stand to swap parts... 2 would be better ... but I have done it several times with just one... to be fair I have a crap load of tools a 50x80 shop and a forklift vs a cherry picker don't have a job and I guess someone might come looking for me if I was trapped under a motor at some point... IMHO i'd rather do this swap than pull the heads any day and the skill set is far less...
I almost purchased a 2008 tundra with a blown engine but it was the 5.7 which is great but the price of a used 5.7 is 3x that of a 4.7
good luck
p
Thanks for stopping by @ponytl hope things are going well?

Say can I ask a few questions:
Did you pull radiator?
Disconnect just hood struts, or remove hood?
Leave the engine mounts on frame or engine?


So much mis-information in this thread that I don't even know where to begin.
Hey thank you as well for chiming in @beno. How about you enlighten me/us and set the record straight. Just start at the beginning of the VVti 2UZ-fe?

I'm not asking, of you, if I need to swap pan's or other parts. I'm interested if there are difference in long block and or intake of the VVti in the various models and what are all the models & years they came in.
 
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